Question about Washing Machines

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I have a 6 year old Kenmore Smartwash Quietpak9 HE machine that has been acting up (long out of warranty). Last week it stopped mid wash cycle and flashed DL which I know is door lock. On the advice of a Sears repairman who I talked with by phone, plugging it and plugging it back in multiple times cleared the issue and the machine worked for a week. Tonight I started laundry, it added water to the drum and then shut down flashing DL again, so I tried my previous remedy. The machine acted like it was going to work ok, adding a little water and turning the drum a time or two, then suddenly shut itself off and flashed both F 11 and F 14. I have shut it off but haven't a clue about what to do. The first time I had the DL signal, a Sears repairman told me the repair would cost me at least $400 to replace the control panel. Is there any remedy other than an expensive repair or to replace this darn machine??

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  • burnham5 Sep 10, 2010

    Thanks for your quick reply! In trying to start the machine now, it flashes either DL or F14 (I haven't seen F11 for awhile now). I am trying to get it to release the door lock, as my towels are all wet and stuck in there, but the door is stuck in lock mode. It will go to the different cycles/times on the circular dail, but as soon as it tries to kick in to start the cycle, it flashes one of the malfunction signs above and I have to pull the power plug again (then it will try and start again, and go immediately into DL or F14). I'm going to leave it off for 30 minutes as you suggest, but if it is going to cost me a ton to repair it (as I suspect it will - this machine has been a pile of trouble), I think I might just have to replace it.

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Hi,

If Disconnecting the power supply might now work, it is better option to replace the machine. There is a thumb rule which states that ' If the cost to repair the machine is more than half the price of the machine, it is better to replace the machine '. This would avoid any further problems.F11 and F14 are the major problems on these units. I am not sure how they determine that control panel is at fault. It could be a series of failure, even that falls the same price range when i talk about repair.

Let me know,if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

Posted on Sep 10, 2010

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Hi

F11 is a serial communication error. Could be as simple as a loose or faulty wire harness, bad drive component or more complex like a failed MCU, CCU or even the motor. I wouldn't rule out the door lock assembly either. Have the technician check all the plugs that interface between the CCU (Central Control Unit), MCU (Motor Control Unit) and the Interface boards. It may take a few visits to resolve the problem. First, attempt to unplug the washer for AT LEAST 30 minutes in an attempt to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). In many cases, this is all that is required in order to correct momentary glitches with the unit. If the code reappears follow the bellow instructions:-

check the wire harness connections between the CCU, the MCU and Drive Motor. Make sure all connections are attached and making good contact. Check for any broken wires or connector pins.
- Check the Drive Motor to see if it free spins and that the belt is still attached and not slipping. If the motor is seized, replace it. If the belt is broken or worn, replace it as well.
- Check the MCU. Connector 1 is the Serial Communications Link between the MCU and CCU. Connector 2 is the connector to the drive motor. Resistance checks across pins 1, 2, & 3 are the motor windings. Connector 3 is the power supply - 120VAC should be read across pins 1 and 2 with the door in the locked position. NOTE: The connectors are read 1, 2, and 3 from the bottom to the top with the MCU installed.
- Check the CCU. Verify connectors 7 and 11 are properly installed. Facing from the front of the washer, connector 7 is the 4th connector from the RIGHT along the front. This is MCU Power. Connector 11 is the Serial Communications link from the CCU to the MCU and is located along the left hand side of the CCU (the connectors are numbered 11 through 14 back to front).
- Check the Drive Motor. Remove the connector and perform resistance checks on the motor connector pins. Readings across pins 1 to 2, 2 to 3 and 1 to 3 should read 6 ohms.
In most cases this is an indication of a failed CCU. This is an easy repair that the average do-it-yourselfer can accomplish on their own. If the washer is still under a warranty, parts and labor would be covered. With no warranty, a replacement parts will vary in price depending on where you get them.


Please check this link bellow for the parts:-

http://www.repairclinic.com/

Please accept the solution if it’s helpful. Do get back to us for any further query.
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Posted on Sep 10, 2010

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