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My Maytag Performa refrigerator/freezer is blowing warm air in both the refrigerator and the freezer. I have adjusted the dials to total cold, and then to total warm, with no change in either case. Any suggestions?

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1073 Answers

SOURCE: Refrigerator blowing warm air.

check the thermastat with power off remove one wire on the thermastat and read across the two terminals of the thermastat with an ohm or resistance meter if set to highest setting on the thermastat you should get a resistance reading if you don not the thermastat is vad

Posted on May 17, 2008

SOURCE: maytag refrigerator side-by-side model MSD2756GE

remove the baskets and shelves in the freezer and remove the rear panels after shutting the fridge down. If you see heavy frost on the coils then the defrost model needs replaced. If not, check the that the fans runs, and then that the thermostat works and then that the damper that allows the air to the fridge compartment is opening correctly.

Posted on Sep 05, 2008

toddg
  • 171 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag Performa Model # PSB2151GRW Fridge is

Your compressor is damaged. It must be either serviced or recharged. This is going to require a service call no matter what the solution due to the need for recharge after the compressor is replaced.

Posted on Oct 02, 2008

  • 686 Answers

SOURCE: fridge is warm even when i adjust temp. control.freezer is good.

if your fridge has 2 set of dials one numbers and the other letters than you need to adjust the dial that has letters on it. If the fan in your freezer is not blowing, then it won't force the cold air from the freezer to the fridge. Make sure fan blows then adjust the letter knob.

Posted on Feb 17, 2009

  • 291 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag freezer & refrigerator not coold enough

It's not cool If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.

First, answer these questions:

  • Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped completely.”


  • Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.


Next, see if the compressor motor is running

The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.

If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:

  • The compressor


  • The Thermostat


  • The overload, relay, or capacitor


  • The defrost timer


  • The condenser fan motor


Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt. 

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer


  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


  • The defrost heater


If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem 

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. I feel heat/warmth on the front edge of my refrigerator....why?
 
Older refrigerators had electric heaters on the edges of the refrigerator cabinet to help prevent moisture from building up, especially in the hot/hazy weather in the summer time. These electric heaters usually had a switch where you could turn them on or off...had words like..."switch here to prevent moisture"...switch here in damp weather".... in the picture it is in the top left of the control assembly.
Then along came the energy crunch. The manufactures stopped using the electric heaters and started running a pass of the hot condenser tubing on the edges of the cabinet where the electric heaters use to be. This is often called ayoder loop tube SxS version and the yoder loop tube Top freezer version. This has now replaced the electric heaters. If you feel heat/hot around the door opening of your refrigerator you should....
clean the condenser coils as a dirty condenser can make the tubing hotter than normal
- check/clean & replace if necessary the condenser cooling fan   ( # F ) motor, if the condenser fan motor is slow or has quit the yoder loop pass will get very warm/hot to the touch
- If the condenser coils are clean and the condenser fan motor is running ok, check the fresh food and freezer section temperatures...if the refrigerator is not operating well and the temps inside are warming up, you could feel more heat/warmth than normal

Posted on Apr 03, 2009

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1 Answer

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If the ref or freezer is too warm and you turn the dial to make it colder the compressor should come on. If the ref or freezer is not cold like you say the compressor should be on all the time. You should hear it, but you can definitely feel it and it should be very warm after a short while.
If the compressor does not get warm unplug the ref with the compressor running and plug it back in immediately. A good compressor should not start up right away.
If it is running and not getting warm and does start right up after unplugging it and plugging it back in it is inefficient and not compressing the freon gas enough and therefore not cooling enough.
The fan in the freezer should be running as should the fan under the refrigerator.
The condenser should be warm and the fan should be blowing[drawing] air across it when the compressor is on.
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