Question about Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
EVEN THOUGH THERE IS WARM AIR COMING OUT THE EXHAUST, IT STILL MAY HAVE A RESTRICTION IN THE DUCT WORK. DISCONNECT THE EXHAUST FROM THE BACK OF THE DRYER FOR ONE LOAD OF LAUNDRY. IF IT DRYS THE CLOTHES O.K., YOU HAVE A RESRICTION SOMEWHERE IN THE EXHAUST.
NOTE: DO NOT USE VINYL OR PLASTIC DUCTING. VINYL IS NOT U.L. APPROVED. PLASTIC PVC WILL ALLOW CONDENSATION TO PUDDLE INSIDE THE PIPE CAUSING A
Posted on Mar 31, 2008
If you have ever removed the lint filter area completely via the screws that hold the plastics in so you could clean it then remove it again and insure that you plugged in the two wires that go to the strip sensor.. (moisture sensor)
Posted on May 17, 2008
I doubt it is your motor that is causing the problem. It's always nice when someone says that it is the most expensive part to fix and that is the only solution. It's an electric dryer and there are tons of things that could be causing the issue for you. It sounds like the problem is probably the thermostat. What this does is shuts off the dryer if the heat is getting to high in the dryer. It is a safety feature to prevent it from catching on fire. It is a easy and cheap fix. The thermostat is located usually somewhere near the heating element housing and only costs around 20 dollars at any appliance repair shop. There is a wire diagram located behind the backing of your control panel. Just remove the few screws and take off the housing. It will help you locate the thermostat. If the motor was the problem your dryer wouldn't shut off the way it is. The thermostat is just shutting it down for safety and that is why you need to keep unplugging it to reset it. Change it out and it should work just fine for you. If you have any other questions let me know and good luck to you.
Posted on Jan 22, 2009
The following link explains how to troubleshoot a dryer no heat problem:
The first thing you should check is your wall receptacle voltage to ensure you are getting between 220-240 VAC across the HOT leads (LEFT and RIGHT slots). If your input voltage is wrong, the heating circuits will not operate, but the drum still may turn. That's because the drive motor only requires 110-120 VAC, while the heating circuits require the full 220 service. If the voltage at the wall receptacle is good, check the again at the terminal block in the back of the dryer. This is where the power cord is installed. Check across the RED and BLACK terminals for the same 220-240 VAC. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block and wall receptacle, check your circuit breakers. Some installations have two breakers controlling the dryer. If one trips, the dryer may run, but won't heat. If the voltage is good at the terminal block, your problem is internal to the dryer. This may save you the need to open the dryer if you have an external problem.
On your dryer, the heating element is located inside the dryer under the drum on the right hand side.
In most cases the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) fails before the Heating Element. If the TCO is defective, it is strongly recommended that you replace the Hi-Limit Thermostat at the same time. These two components are commonly sold as a set and are located on the heater box on the left hand side. The TCO is located on the end opposite the heating element terminals, while the Hi-Limit Thermostat is located adjacent to the heating element leads. Failure to replace both components may result in premature failure of any components you replace.
Make sure you take all resistance readings with the components unplugged to isolate them and prevent parallel resistance paths. If you do determine your heating element to be defective and need to remove it, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Jul 08, 2009
Pull the dryer out away from the wall. Unhook the vent from the dryer completely. Do not put anything over the dryer exhaust on the back of the dryer. Do a normal load with the vent unhooked. If it dries better or ok like this then the problem is in the dryer venting. Like a blocked vent pipe or a smashed or restricted vent hose.
- If the vent doesn't make a difference, then check the blower wheel for excessive lint build up, check that there isn't anything stuck to the air intake baffle inside the drum, (i.e. the screen on the back wall of the dryer when looking into the drum). Check the lint filter chute for blockage. Check that the heating element isn't shorted to ground. Check the exhaust temperature of the dryer. A meat or pocket thermometer can be used for this. It should cycle approx between 110 degrees and 150 degrees. Check that the drum seals are not worn out.
Posted on Dec 23, 2009
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