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How do you release the seal retaining lock - Washing Machines

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A lot of concerns have been raised about door bellows molding, mildewing, and/or ripping and needing replaced. A replacement bellow isn’t cheap (prices vary, but are around $75-80), so hopefully these helpful steps will eliminate the need to call a repair service and pay the additional labor charges. This is a repair of MODERATE difficulty. Just follow these steps:

1. Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the washer top panel by removing the three torx-type screws (or 7mm) where it attaches in the rear of the washer. The panel should slide back, and then lift off.
3. Remove the operator console by removing the dispenser and the scew(s) behind it. Take a putty knife and insert it under the console seam right above the door. If you push in slightly while pulling outwards the panel pops off. Use care not to pull or damage any of the wiring. You can leave the wires attached and simply lay the console across the top of the washer out of the way.
4. Locate the wire hoop retainer around the rubber door boot. It is located behind the rubber seam where it attaches to the door frame. Follow this hoop around to the bottom of the door opening and locate the wire tension spring. Gently pry this spring apart and pull the wire hoop from the groove. Pull the rubber boot from the frame and push it inside towards the wash tub. You will also have to remove the door boot from the fill tube on the left hand side of the door opening. There is a small wire clamp holding it in place.
5. Remove the three screws that hold the door latch assembly in place. This is on the right hand side of the door opening. You can leave the latch in place as long as you remove the screws and push it inside slightly to remove it from the front casing of the washer.
6. Remove the door by removing the screws holding the hinges in place. Use care to support the door hinges when loosening. They can bend. Set the door aside in a location where it will not get stepped on or broken.
7. Remove the lower kick panel under the door. There are 3 screws under the bottom edge holding it in place. Sometimes the panel can stick. A slight tap on either side will knock it free.
8. Remove the front washer casing by removing the four remaining screws that are holding it in place. There should be two at the top and two at the bottom. Set the front casing aside.
9. Remove the old door boot by locating the large clamp that attaches it to the wash tub. Loosen the 7mm nut and the boot will detach from the tub. Also remove the boot from the fill tube coming from the dispenser.
10. Install new door boot on the wash tub and install clamp. There should be instructions that come with the door boot with guide marks to ensure you align it correctly. Once you have the boot in place, tighten the clamp enough to where it is snug. DO NOT over-tighten or you may damage the tub and or clamp. In most cases the clamp will break.
11. Once you have the boot in place, re-install everything in the reverse order of how I explained to disassemble. Make sure you connect the door latch assembly BEFORE you re-install the outer portion of the door boot. Also, make sure you install the boot completely over the fill tube. There should be a ridge on the tube where to stop. Sometimes the tube is not inserted all way into the boot and water will leak behind it. The clamp is always difficult to get back in place. If you cannot get the clamp to go back over the tube, you can live without it. Some newer models do not have them installed. Just make sure it is a snug fit where the rubber boot fits ALL the way back to the plastic ridge on the tube.
12. When you get the point where you are ready to install the door boot back over the frame of the door opening ensure you fit it snugly all the way around the door. Beginning at the top of the door, start inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Make sure to wire spring points towards the bottom. As you work your way around the door to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions, you will need to maintain some constant downward pressure while pulling the spring apart in order to snap it back into place. It would be advisable to use a second set of hands to hold the wire hoop in place while doing this as it has the tendency to want to come out of the groove.
13. Once the door boot is back in place, re-install the operator console and washer top.
14. At the operator console, select DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN and press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (has to be the same button, though). This will place the washer in diagnostics mode. You should hear the door latch lock and "C00" will be displayed on the console. The washer will run through a series of tests filling the tub, tumbling, draining, and then a final spin. If you do not wish to wait for the test to complete you can press CANCEL at any time. The test checks out everything and takes about 15 minutes. Look for any leaks.


Step 6--Removing the door. After you remove the three screws in Step 5, there is only one screw to remove in step 6 on my model. It was hidden behind a plastic cover that makes the hinge look pretty. You'll see on the inside of the door that two plastic prongs/tabs extend into holes in the hinge. If you push on them laterally and pull out, the tabs will pop out. Outside the door on the left side of the machine, you'll see the plastic cover that is connected to those plastic tabs and is hiding the hinge. On the outside cover piece, there is a flat tab that extends up into the plastic housing above it. If you gently pull the cover downward and out the whole plastic cover will come off revealing the one screw that needs to be removed to take the door off.
Step 7--Removing the Kick Panel. The middle screw is more difficult to reach than the sides. You may need an extension for your screwdriver and/or shims or a helper to prop up the washer while you remove the middle screw.
Step 8--Removing the washer casing. The step says to remove the screws and set the casing aside. My model (2005-ish) has wires connected to it. Rather than being able to remove it, it swings open like a door with the wires as the hinge. I simply used a box to prop up the outside part of the door so it did not sag and stress the wires.
Step 9--After you remove the old rubber bellow, you will likely see a lot of dirt, mold, and junk where the bellow was. Clean that stuff off with a cloth sprayed with a gentle cleanser before installing the new bellow. We replaced our bellow because of mold and mildew and bad smelling stuff. That dirt and junk is part of the problem. Clean it up before you install the new clean bellow.

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Posted on Sep 09, 2010

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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How do you remove the crankshaft dumper pully?


Published: 11-May-2011
Engine - V8 4.4L Petrol - Crankshaft Pulley
In-vehicle Repair
Special Tool(s)

Holding Tool Crankshaft Pulley
303-893(LRT-12-080)
Adapter
303-191-03
Bolts and spacers
303-191-04
Remover, crankshaft pulley
303-588
Remover, crankshaft seal
303-D121
Installer, crankshaft seal
303-1100
Adapter - Crankshaft seal installer
303-1100-01 Removal
  1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
    For additional information, refer to: Specifications (414-00 Battery and Charging System - General Information, Specifications).
  1. WARNING: Do not work on or under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always support the vehicle on safety stands. Raise and support the vehicle.
  1. Remove the accessory drive belt.
    For additional information, refer to: Accessory Drive Belt (303-05B Accessory Drive - V8 4.4L Petrol, Removal and Installation).

  1. Remove the cooling fan shroud.
    • Release 2 clips from the cooling fan lower shroud.
    • Release and remove the cooling fan lower shroud from the cooling pack.

  1. Using the special tools, retain the crankshaft pulley.
  1. CAUTION: Under no circumstances should the crankshaft setting peg, 303-645, be used in the following operations, to restrain the crankshaft. NOTE: The crankshaft pulley retaining bolt will be very tight.
    Remove the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt.
    • Discard the bolt.
  1. Remove the special tools.

  1. Using the special tools, remove the crankshaft pulley.
    • Collect the locking ring.
  1. Remove the special tools from the crankshaft pulley.

  1. Using the special tool, remove the crankshaft front seal.
    • Remove the outer section of the seal.
    • Repeat the process to remove the inner section of seal.
  1. Check the crankshaft damper pulley and locking ring for damage.
Installation
  1. Clean all the crankshaft pulley mating faces.

  1. Using the special tools, install the crankshaft front seal.
    • Lubricate the seal with clean engine oil.
    • Use the discarded crankshaft bolt with the service tool.
  1. Install the crankshaft pulley.
    • Lubricate the seal with clean engine oil.
  1. Install the crankshaft pulley locking ring.
  1. CAUTION: The screw thread in the crankshaft pulley must be cleaned out before installing a new crankshaft pulley bolt. Install, but do not tighten, the new crankshaft pulley bolt.
  1. CAUTION: Under no circumstances should the crankshaft setting peg, 303-645, be used in the following operations, to restrain the crankshaft. Using the special tools, retain the crankshaft pulley.
    • Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to 380 Nm (280 lb.ft).
  1. Remove the special tools.
  1. Install the cooling fan lower shroud.
  1. Install the accessory drive belt.
    For additional information, refer to: Accessory Drive Belt (303-05B Accessory Drive - V8 4.4L Petrol, Removal and Installation).
  1. Connect the battery ground cable.
    For additional information, refer to: Specifications (414-00 Battery and Charging System - General Information, Specifications).

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1 Answer

Chevy van


Smoking issues after warm start up are usually caused by brittle valve stem seals and oil leaks down through the valve guide. These can be changed on the engine without head removal. Just use a air compressor to keep the cylinder full of air with the valves closed then remove the rocker arms counting the number of turns to keep adjustment. With a on car spring compressor remove spring. The valve keepers can be tight in retainer so tapping the retainer with released tension they will break free. Most chevy heads have 2 oil seals a hat type (positive spring seal) and a o-ring seal. With spring removed take both seals off there are very brittle. Replace the hat seal first then install spring with retainer. the o-ring seal needs to stay in retainer and in lower groove then install valve keepers and slowly release the spring pressure, Once spring compressor is removed then tap valve stem with hammer to seat keepers then release air. Also check Intake manifold bolts for proper torque. A loose manifold will also **** in oil bolt torque is 35-40 ft. lbs cast iron 30-35 ft. lbs aluminum manifold.

Nov 05, 2013 | 1992 Chevrolet G20

1 Answer

Replace bellow seal


Hello.

1 Unplug the power cord. Pull the Whirlpool Duet away from the wall. Remove the screws at the back of the machine using a Phillips screwdriver. Remove the top panel from the machine and set it aside.

2 Remove the soap dispenser from the front of the machine by pulling it out and depressing the button at the back to release it. Remove the soap dispenser bracket retaining screws, using a Phillips screwdriver. Pull the dispenser bracket out of the washer.

3 Remove the retaining screws from the control panel with a Phillips screwdriver. Release the locking clips and flip the control panel on top of the machine. There is no need to disconnect the wiring harness. Open the washing machine door and remove the retaining screws from the door latch, using a nut driver.

4 Remove the outer retaining spring from the bellow seal using a pair of needle-nose pliers to grasp the loop and pull it out. Peel the bellow away from the door opening, using your fingers. Push the bellow seal inside the machine after you release it from the door opening.

5 Lift the front of the washing machine and put a wooden block under it.
Remove the retaining screws from the bottom of the front panel using a nut driver. Remove the wooden block from under the washing machine and lower the unit back to the floor. Remove the screws at the top of the front panel with a nut driver. Pull the panel away from the machine and set it aside.

6 Pull the old bellow seal from the machine. Unplug the white and black hoses from the old bellow seal . Remove the spring clamp from the bellow and throw the old bellow seal away. Rub liquid laundry soap on the groove of the new bellow seal. Push the new bellow seal onto the washtub with the opening for the hoses at the top. Push firmly until it is on tight.

7 Install the spring clamp on the new bellow seal into the groove using a Phillips screwdriver. Plug the black and white hoses into the holes at the top of the bellow. Be careful not to damage the bellow seal. Place the front of the machine on the frame and install the top screws using a nut driver. Push the door latch through the hole and install the retaining screws.

8 Press the bellow seal into place around the door opening and install the spring clamp around the perimeter of the bellow. Lift the machine and place the wood block under it. Install the bottom screws with the nut driver. Remove the wooden block and place the machine back on the floor. Put the control panel in place and lock the retaining clips.

9 Install the soap dispenser bracket and the retaining screws using a Phillips screwdriver. Install the retaining screws on the control panel. Place the top cover on the machine and install the screws with the Phillips screwdriver. Plug in the power cord and push the machine against the wall. Install the soap dispenser drawer and push it all the way in so the tab locks into place.

Thanks.

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1 Answer

How do i tear apart my steering column in my 84 dodge pickup so i can change my ignition switch?


  1. NON TILT WHEEL
  2. Remove the steering wheel.
  3. Remove the turn signal switch.
  4. Unfasten the two screws that release the buzzer switch (if equipped), then remove the switch.



0900c15280052e49.jpg

Fig. Fig. 2: Removing the ignition buzzer

  1. Remove the retaining screw and lift the ignition lock cylinder lamp out of the way.



0900c15280052e4a.jpg

Fig. Fig. 3: Ignition key lamp

  1. Remove the bearing housing.
  2. Detach the coil spring.
  3. Remove the lock plate from the shaft.



0900c15280052e4b.jpg

Fig. Fig. 4: Lock lever plate removal

  1. Unfasten the 2 retaining screws and lift the lock lever guide plate to expose the lock cylinder release hole.
  2. Insert the key and place the lock cylinder in the LOCK position. Remove the key.
  3. Insert a thin punch into the lock cylinder release hole and push inward to release the spring-loaded lock retainer. At the same time, pull the lock cylinder out of the column.



0900c15280052e4c.jpg

Fig. Fig. 5: Depress the lock plate which will expose the lock cylinder release hole

  1. Remove the 3 retaining screws and lift out the ignition switch.

To install:
  1. Position the ignition switch in the center detent position (OFF).
  2. Place the shift lever in PARK.
  3. Feed the wires down through the space between the housing and jacket. Position the switch in the housing and install the 3 retaining screws.



0900c15280052e4d.jpg

Fig. Fig. 6: Lock levers and spring assembly installed

  1. Place the lock cylinder in the LOCK position, and press it into place in the column. It will snap into position.
  2. The remainder of assembly is the reverse of disassembly.

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3 Answers

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Fuel Pump - Removal & Installation
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions section.
  2. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
  3. Drain the fuel tank.
  4. Remove or disconnect the following:
  5. While holding the modular fuel sender assembly down, remove the snapring, if equipped or if equipped with a cam lock ring use Fuel Sender Lock Nut Tool J-39765 to press down and rotate the cam lock ring to remove it.
    WARNING If the modular fuel sender assembly is retained by a snapring, it may spring up from its position. When removing the modular fuel sender from the tank, be aware that the reservoir bucket is full of fuel. It must be tipped slightly during removal to avoid damage to the float.
    Fuel sender assembly External fuel strainer Connector retainer from the wiring harness and the fuel pump
  6. Gently release the tabs on the sides of the fuel sender at the cover assembly. Begin by squeezing the sides of the reservoir and releasing the tab opposite the fuel level sensor. Move clockwise to release the second and third tab in the same manner.
  7. Remove or disconnect the following:
    Fuel pump electrical connection by lifting the cover assembly Baffle and pump assembly from the retainer by rotating the fuel pump baffle counterclockwise Fuel pump outlet by sliding it out of slot Fuel pump outlet seal
To install:


88dac81.jpg
Fig. Exploded view of the fuel sender assembly mounting to the tank


4a62e9e.jpg
Fig. Exploded view of the fuel pump assembly
  1. Install or connect the following:
    NOTE Gently pull on the fuel pump reservoir to assure it is secure. If not secure, replace the entire fuel sender.
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    Connector retainer to the wiring harness and the fuel pump External fuel strainer Snapring, if equipped to the retainer slots while holding the modular fuel sender assembly down or use Fuel Sender Lock Nut Tool J-39765 in order to install the cam lock ring Fuel tank Negative battery cable
  2. Pressurize the fuel system and verify no leaks.

Hope helps (remember rated and comment this).

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1 Answer

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You have to replace the whole door seal.It can be done through the port hole,difficult but achievable or you can strip the front of the appliance off and do the inner part easier.

Unplug the appliance.

Open the door and take the seal retaining ring out of the door seal.

Peel the door seal off the front panel and fold it inside.

Take the seal retaining ring/spring out of the tub side of the seal.

Pull the seal off and take it out of the appliance.

Fit the new seal to the tub,look at the seal and tub for matching arrow marks to help align it.

Fit the retaining ring/spring into the groove in the seal and over the lip of the tub.

Fit the seal to the front panel and then fit the retaining ring into the seal.

Restore the power to the appliance and leak test it.

If you find you can't get the seal on.

Take the top off the appliance.

Take the dispenser out.

Take out the screws revealed.

Take out the screws holding the door lock.

Take off the plastic cover below the door and remove the screws revealed.

Take the front panel off.

If the panel won't come down and off there will be a hidden screw that requires the facia panel to be removed.It's snap together plastic,just release the catches and carefully remove the facia.

Take the screw out, take the panel off.

Fit the inner part of the seal to the tub.

Reassemble the front of the appliance.

Fit the seal to the front.

Leak test the appliance.

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This video will show you how to change a door seal on this bosch

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Jack up vehicle and support on stands. Remove wheels. Remove differential cover . Locate and remove lock pin that holds cross shaft in. Slide cross shaft out. Push axle inward to release axle c clip. Remove axle and pry out old seal. Install new seal with proper tool.Add some lube to the seal lip to aid axle intallation. Revese removal procedure. This is for a "c" type axle.
Another type has 4 nuts attaching a retainer plate to the backing plate behind the axle flange. In this case the 4 nuts are removed and the axle will come out. This may require a little effort. I think that you have a "c" type axle in your vehicle. Hope this helps. Moe

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1 Answer

Need to know if i have to drop fuel tank to replace the fuel pump on a 2004 oldsmobile Alero or just remove the rear seat to get to it...


here are step by step instructions on the removal and installation of your fuel tank and fuel pump. please do not forget to rate and comment about your experience with fixya today.
Removal & Installation
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions section.
  2. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
  3. Drain the fuel tank.
  4. Remove or disconnect the following:
  5. While holding the modular fuel sender assembly down, remove the snapring, if equipped or if equipped with a cam lock ring use Fuel Sender Lock Nut Tool J-39765 to press down and rotate the cam lock ring to remove it.

    WARNING If the modular fuel sender assembly is retained by a snapring, it may spring up from its position. When removing the modular fuel sender from the tank, be aware that the reservoir bucket is full of fuel. It must be tipped slightly during removal to avoid damage to the float.
    • Fuel sender assembly
    • External fuel strainer
    • Connector retainer from the wiring harness and the fuel pump
  6. Gently release the tabs on the sides of the fuel sender at the cover assembly. Begin by squeezing the sides of the reservoir and releasing the tab opposite the fuel level sensor. Move clockwise to release the second and third tab in the same manner.
  7. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Fuel pump electrical connection by lifting the cover assembly
    • Baffle and pump assembly from the retainer by rotating the fuel pump baffle counterclockwise
    • Fuel pump outlet by sliding it out of slot
    • Fuel pump outlet seal
To install:
Install or connect the following:
    • Fuel pump outlet with a new seal by sliding it in the reservoir cover slots
    • Fuel pump and baffle assembly onto the reservoir retainer by rotating it clockwise until seated
    • Lower retainer assembly partially into the reservoir by aligning all 3 sleeve tabs and pressing the retainer onto the reservoir making sure all 3 tabs are firmly seated

    NOTE Gently pull on the fuel pump reservoir to assure it is secure. If not secure, replace the entire fuel sender.
    • Connector retainer to the wiring harness and the fuel pump
    • External fuel strainer
    • Snapring, if equipped to the retainer slots while holding the modular fuel sender assembly down or use Fuel Sender Lock Nut Tool J-39765 in order to install the cam lock ring
    • Fuel tank
    • Negative battery cable
  1. Pressurize the fuel system and verify no leaks.

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2 Answers

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You have probably knocked of the connector or the catch (and on these it is very fragile as I have changed the catch 3 times on mine) is broken

Jan 22, 2009 | Hotpoint Aquarius WD63 Front Load...

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