Intake runners are controlled by vacuum actuators at the rear of the intake manifold (I think it takes a 8mm socket--two bolts for each actuator). First check them both for loose of bad vacuum hoses. You can remove the actuators and see it the runners are free to rotate--perhaps one is corroded and stuck. You can take the air horn off the intake manifold, if necessary, to free the runner; but you may need to buy a new gasket to reinstall. Let us know if you have more questions.
Joel Bones Wilcox's answer...
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Okay everyone, I've been getting a code P2004 for a few months now.
I drive a 2003 Ford Ranger 2.3 liter.
Every time I erase the code it comes back within a quarter mile of driving.
The part is called the Intake Manifold Runner Control... (IMRC)
I looked everywhere on the internet to show exactly where this part was located to no avail...
I drove to my local dealership and they pointed it out to me right away
along with the vacuum lines that just fell off the module...
The module is made of metal and plastic with two (2) electrical
connectors on the bottom and on the back and two (2) vacuum lines
connected by a plastic connector on the front of the module connected to
the IMRC by crimped metal tabs on the metal housing of the module...
The metal component of the IMRC has rusted considerably and the plastic
housing that the vacuum lines connect to were crimped to the metal
housing.
So, when the metal housing rusted away the crimped
metal holding the plastic part that the vacuum lines connect to failed
and fell off.
Below is an actual photo of the rusted part and the vacuum lines that fell off.
The metal crimped areas are circled in red...
Copy the links to the following images and paste them into your
browser's address bar. (Since I cannot upload the images here...)
http://www.evil-incarnate.com/images/C360_2011-05-04 17-58-55-b.jpg
So, I'm posting these images to hopefully help others.
I've circled the part in red in the images below.
Cost was 127.00 + 8.58 in taxes
Total 135.58
Should only take a whole 5 to 10 minutes to replace.
Copy the links to the following images and paste them into your
browser's address bar. (Since I cannot upload the images here...)
http://www.evil-incarnate.com/images/scan0001-a.jpg
http://www.evil-incarnate.com/images/scan0002.jpg
Hopefully this post helps someone...
The images above will stay for as long as I own my website where they are located...
(Since I cannot upload the images here...)
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Since there is no way for me to edit my post above, I will re post it hopefully without a typo this time...
(THERE REALLY SHOULD BE A WAY FOR US TO EDIT OUR POSTS.)
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Okay everyone, I've been getting a code P2004 for a few months now.
I drive a 2003 Ford Ranger 2.3 liter.
Every time I erase the code it comes back within a quarter mile of driving.
The part is called the Intake Manifold Runner Control... (IMRC)
I looked everywhere on the internet to show exactly where this part was located to no avail...
I drove to my local dealership and they pointed it out to me right away along with the vacuum lines that just fell off the module...
The module is made of metal and plastic with one (1) electrical connectors on the bottom and on the back and two (2) vacuum lines connected by a plastic connector on the front of the module connected to the IMRC by crimped metal tabs on the metal housing of the module...
The metal component of the IMRC has rusted considerably and the plastic housing that the vacuum lines connect to were crimped to the metal housing.
So, when the metal housing rusted away the crimped metal holding the plastic part that the vacuum lines connect to failed and fell off.
Below is an actual photo of the rusted part and the vacuum lines that fell off.
The metal crimped areas are circled in red...
Copy the links to the following images and paste them into your browser's address bar. (Since I cannot upload the images here...)
http://www.evil-incarnate.com/images/C36... 17-58-55-b.jpg
So, I'm posting these images to hopefully help others.
I've circled the part in red in the images below.
Cost was 127.00 + 8.58 in taxes
Total 135.58
Should only take a whole 5 to 10 minutes to replace.
Copy the links to the following images and paste them into your browser's address bar. (Since I cannot upload the images here...)
http://www.evil-incarnate.com/images/sca...
http://www.evil-incarnate.com/images/sca...
Hopefully this post helps someone...
The images above will stay for as long as I own my website where they are located...
(Since I cannot upload the images here...)
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Read more:http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_the_tr...
Here is an updated image after I replaced the IMRC.
Took me, all but 5 minutes to do this.
http://www.evil-incarnate.com/images/C36... 11-11-55.jpg
AND upon further inspection of the old part and the new part, the plastic piece where the vacuum hoses were attached was NOT held on by crimped metal tabs. The crimped metal tabs were holding on the metal end which held the plastic piece in place. The plastic piece that the vacuum hoses were attached to was broke at the top and bottom. (The only places it could break.) Very bad design in my opinion.
In my opinion the cause for the plastic piece to fail was because of the rust. The rust expanded and caused the plastic to fail and break from stress.
Here is two images of the old rusted, broken IMRC after removal.
You can clearly see in the images below where the plastic failed and broke. Circled in red.
http://www.evil-incarnate.com/images/C36... 11-28-50.jpg
You can also see how the rust built up and expanded and obviously caused the part to fail.
http://www.evil-incarnate.com/images/C36... 11-29-12.jpg
This was one of the easiest fixes I have ever had to do on this truck.
Here is how I did it.
1. Disconnected the negative cable from the battery.
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- 8mm bolt on my 2003 Ford Ranger
- Losen slightly, twist and pull the negative cable off.
2. Removed the 8mm bolt from the IMRC.
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- The bolt was slightly rusted but I was easily able to
- force the 8mm socket on and remove the bolt from the plastic
- intake manifold.
3. Unplugged the electrical connector from the old IMRC.
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- Gently so as to not break the tab off the electrical
- connector, pull the tab outward with your fingernail or
- a small screwdriver and pull gently on the plug not
- the wires.
4. Unplugged the vacuum hoses from the plastic on the IMRC.
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- Gently twist and pull the vacuum hoses off the IMRC one
- by one. Pull the front one off first then the lower.
- It is very important to remember which hose is which.
- Thoroughly inspect the vacuum hoses for cracks and breaks.
I reversed this procedure to install the new IMRC.
Too easy...
Here is what some of the dealerships said when I called and asked them for an estimate of how much it would cost to have my IMRC put on my truck. Nothing else just labor on installing the IMRC. I was specific.
One dealership in Kent, Ohio named Klaben Ford told me on the phone about 1 hour labor, approx. $120 USD
Another dealership in Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio named Spitzer Ford told me 2.8 hours labor, approx. $240 USD. They said they would have to remove the plenum/manifold to replace the IMRC. Then they said they would have to re-program the computer as well. He said he does it all the time and has done many... LOL I've never done this before and I did it in my driveway in 5 minutes. Didn't have to remove the plenum. Didn't have to re-program the computer. The check engine light went out as soon as I started the truck. Truck runs like new now. Smooth. Beautiful.
Another dealership in Tallmadge, Ohio named Park Ford told me 1.5 to 2 hours labor, approx. $146.
A few points to remember...
1. I'm not an ASE certified mechanic...
2. I don't have a big shop or all the expensive tools like the mechanics at the dealerships.
3. I don't have a book telling me how to do the job.
4. I don't work on vehicles for a living.
5. I don't claim to be an expert or a professional auto mechanic
6. I have cheap Craftsman tools, not MAC or SNAP ON.
Just because these so called experts have a uniform with their names embroidered on them and buy expensive tools, doesn't mean they are truthful, professionals who just want to help you. They are, in actuality, ASE certified con artists. 90% of the time they will make you believe you need more work than you actually need and that the job will take a lot longer than it actually should.
Don't get me wrong, just because you learned something on the internet doesn't mean you're an expert and it doesn't mean the mechanic doesn't know what they're talking about. However, just because the shop foreman tells you something doesn't mean he is telling you the truth either. They're out to make money and that is the prime mover of their struggle, the root of all evil. MONEY. Remember that...
Do your homework. Call around. Get estimates. Talk to the mechanics. Read a book. Educate yourself, it won't hurt...
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SOURCE: Code P2004 Bank 1 runners stuck open, What is the
Hi,
This code indicates Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open, Bank 1
Its hard to be very specific about a fix on this as there are a few potential fixes including the outright replacement of the intake manifold. If the Manifold Flow Valve blades are seized in the intake manifold, the manifold will have to be replaced
However this code can sometimes have a very easy fix and if you are lucky you may find that it is caused by a split vacuum hose connecting to the actuator. A leak in the vacuum system will set the code and I suggest you check this out first as a potential cause.
Thanks for using FixYa.
SOURCE: I got a code P2004
what engine? So the guy running the test could'nt point it out to you? You need to find a shop that qualified to repair the car. its a valve on the intake manifold that opens and closes to help th engine produce the most power at low and high rpm. they get stuck. sometimes you can clean them.
SOURCE: ENGINE LIGHT ON SLIGHT LOSS OF POWER AND POSSIBLE RATTLE
p2004 (Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open)You need to take a look at the IMRC actuators on the intake manifold. You can try using a screwdriver or other tool to move the actuators to see if one is stuck in the open position. Do not use your fingers to do this, because if one is open and decides to close it has a bit of force behind it and can injure you. If the IMRC is stuck open, it is usually due to deposits in the intake manifold. Repair involves removing the upper intake manifold and cleaning out any deposits in the IMRC plate area. I would try running some Techron Concentrate in 2 tanks of gas to see if it dissolves enough of the gunk on the plates to free up the stuck one. Certainly a lot cheaper than having to pull the intake manifold and cleaning the plates. Always run tier one gasoline like Shell or Chevron to reduce the buidup of deposits.
SOURCE: Check engine light came on.
Hello, The fast idle on Startup is a normal setting for your motor. This is called the "cold start routine" and it is suppose to help create draft in the induction system and warm other components.
The problem with the runner can be from several things. There are Electric solenoids on some of the motors which may be seen as 2 pods on the Intake manifold. The Solenoids are used to either send Vacuum to the runner mechanism or to move metal rods attached to the "runners".
Sometimes the runners with Vacuum solenoids get stuck in one position. You need to check for Vacuum running through the Solenoid. For the type with metal rods that move, Ford used plastic clips to hold the rod shaft to the runner just beneath the place where the Solenoid mounts. The broken plastic clip can be replaced with a paper clip that you need to shape to fit. Or you can buy a Ford part made of plastic which will fail again.
The runner flaps themselves can be gummed up so bad that the Solenoids described earlier just can not move them. This style would need to have the Intake Manifold removed in order for you to lift out the runner plates and clean them.
I am going to explain what a "Runner" is and this should explain why there are several systems put in Ford vehicles. On some Ford engines, the breathing of the engine requires that the Intake manifold has 2 sets of intake passages. A single Intake design could not give both low-end and top-end Performance. The runner moves from one port to another and this is like having 2 Intake manifolds bolted on top of 1 engine.
When the runners can not move because of a malfuction, thats when you get Error Warnings and poor performance.
You need to identify the engine used in your ZX3 if there were optional engines. I wanted to give you a start on your repair with my Solution. You should be able to look at your motor and see which system you have and now know that a Rod-operated sytem can have broken clips, a Vacuum system can have bad Solenoids and so on. I hope this is very useful to you.
SOURCE: went to autozone they diagnostic
The intake manifold runner valve system is mounted on the intake manifold and consists of the intake manifold runner valve (IMRV), the IMRV motor and the IMRV position sensor. The IMRV motor opens and closes the IMRV using multiple gears. The valve position sensor detects the opening angle of the IMRV. The IMRV has a groove on its upper portion. When the IMRV is closed, air flows through a groove into the cylinder from the intake manifold, so that a dynamic air flow or "tumble" air flow is generated in the cylinder. The tumble air flow drastically reduces fuel deposits inside the intake air port and the combustion wall surface inside the cylinder. This improves the combustion efficiency by boosting the air−fuel mixture and air flow turbulence.
Check this document for Diagnosis procedures and more information:
http://www.4shared.com/document/OGI6_zov/INTAKE_MANIFOLD_RUNNER_CONTROL.html
I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514
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