Question about Jet Equipment Chain Hoist 1TON 10 Ft Lift #111000

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I have 2 post Hoffman car hoist. One side bearing came lose and i have hard time to put it back where it suppose to be . The notch on the bottom flange is not completely in the wedge. It slipped out and hoist get jammed. Where can i find a manual or assembly drawing . Is there a way to fix with out taking whole thing apart. ?

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Hi I just read your post.
It sounds like you have got the shaft upside down.
Large nut for the shaft goes on at bottom bearing & put your seal in last.Make sure you put enough grease on the lip of the seal.

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I have a 2004 MDX and its making grinding noise at 40mph and 60mph. Local auto repair shop say its catalyic converter. Does anyone have answer to the noise.


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1 Answer

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The container that bakes the bread has a tab on the bottom that turns, and is on a shaft that goes thru the bottom, and this shaft is held by a snap-ring. we can't get the tab off,(supposed to come off to...


Hi,
Thank you for visiting Fixya. The tab you speak of is called the paddle. The paddle sits on a shaft that is pressed into a sealed bearing. This shaft is not supposed to move in the bearing. If the shaft moves the bearing will lose it's seal and lubricating fluid (oil) will leak out. The snap ring, bearing, and shaft are put together before they are installed into the pan. If you can't fit the ring back onto the shaft so the shaft doesn't move, then you should hunt around for a new bread pan. P.S. Putting soapy warm water in the pan and letting it sit for a while will free up the paddle so it lifts off the shaft. Also lubricating the shaft with a squirt of olive oil will help stop the paddle from sticking on the shaft. Good Luck...Hank

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Hello datil7772 ,

Did you see this post? My series 16 machine did not use the upper bearing ring. What is 1st two digits of your serial number.

I believe that bearing ring is a plain bearing ring not a One-Way Roller clutch bearing as is in the Clutch Pulley. I refer to it as One-Way roller clutch but I believe I’m wrong can you confirm?

Any way the ears on that upper ring should go up into the tub slots in the bottom of the wash tub. I would be concerned about the reliability of you Clutch you may want to replace it. The post above has the clutch I recommend and the supplier with the best price. I also describe reassembly of the clutch in the machine. Good luck back and post back if
you have questions…… Rich

Info from the above post;
6.
Reinstalling the Clutch Pulley assembly is the most difficult part of the process. With a tight work area try a test fitment of seating (if used) the Upper Roller Clutch bearing with the notches into the bottom of the wash tub. Then insert the Spinner Shaft Coupler into that bearing rotating CW to reseat the coupler notches to the spinner shaft. Then the clutch pulley to the squared end agitator shaft. Rock back and forth the clutch pulley assembly with upward lifting pressure to reseat the clutch assembly. When the clutch assembly is properly seated you will feel a 1/16-1/8" gap between the Pulley face and shaft end as mentioned and shown on page 47 of the SM. On reinstallation, tighten Clutch Pulley bolt CCW to 96” pounds 8’ foot pounds (Snug no torque wrench required).


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1 Answer

How do I diagnose a loud whining noise from the front of my honda accord 2001 . The noise gets louder when i speed up and goes away when driving round left hand bends. I can feel vibration when driving....


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1 Answer

How do i restring a grass hog


Hello, W/D here. This is a previous post, but it should help.

I'm afraid that mental pictures are the best I can do, but bear with me; I'm good at it....We'll go over the spool parts, and the first time you wind tha spool, don't put any line on it....just read the directions while you hold the spool in your hands. Get a feel for what you are going to do. See how it will fit where it needs to go.....
All right......
Pull the spool out of the head.
Just look at it. You'll see that it is actually two spools.
Look at the divider between the spools. See the notch?
Look at the middle of the spools, or the core, where the line winds on the spool. See the small holes, one for each spool?
Flip the spools upside down. Look at the bottom. Note the notches in the rim of the bottom, and the arrows indicating the direction to wind the line. Look near the notches. There should be numbers next to the notches. This is the line size that fits your machine.
Take a brief look into the hole where the spool will attach to the head. We'll talk about that in a minute.
All right, let's do it. Remember, no line for the first walk thru. Take your line and snip the end at an angle, say about 45 degrees. Now take the pointed end and poke it about 1/8" into the small hole in the core of the inner spool (the spool closest to the bottom of the spool assembly). The purpose of placing the line in the hole is to anchor the line while you wrap (load) the spool. Start wrapping the line on the spool, going in the direction of the arrows. When you have that spool wrapped almost to the diameter of the rim, place the line in the bottom rim notch that is 180 degrees from the notch that is in between the spools. The line should fit into the notch snugly. You want about 6" of line to hang out past the notch and cut it so you have a 6" tail hanging out.
Now, fill the outer spool the same way. When you get it full, you'll pass that line into the notch in between the spools, and anchor it into the notch on the rim. Again, leave about a 6" tail, and cut it off.
Hard part's done. Get the spool close to the head, and thread the tails into the grommets on the machine head. Once both ends are in the grommets, straighten up the spool (align the notches holding the tails with the grommets) and push the spool into the head.
Almost there! When the spool is firmly set in the head, you'll feel a bit of a click, Grasp the tails, and tug on them enough to pull them out of the notches that were anchoring them to the rim.
Let's check our work. Push the spool in, simulating bumping the spool on the ground to advance the line. Once you have pushed it in, tug again on the tails. You should pull about an inch or so from each side, and then the line will stop.
Once you have that, you're done!
Now, about the hole in the bottom of the spool where it connects to the trimmer head....Sometimes, the line will be difficult to advance, so you should clean it out a bit from time-to-time. The trick that will help you is that, after cleaning it, put a little graphite dust in the hole. This lubricates the advancing mechanism without leaving an oily residue that will collect debris. Don't do it this time, maybe not next time, just some time. I probably do this maybe every eighth or tenth time I wind the spools or so. I buy the graphite usually at Lowe's2.gif or similar. It's used for locks, but you an also get it at Hobby Lobby where it's used for Cub Scout race cars (Pinewood Derby). Same stuff.
Sorry about no pictures. Turns out you didn't need them after all!
You've been a great student, and it's been a pleasure.
Best regards, --W/D--

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2 Answers

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As a matter of fact the diff can make noise on and off the gas, my own car a 1996 Corvette does this, it needs the ring and pinion replaced, is this what you are talking about when you say they told you that you needed a whole new differential?

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3 Answers

Detached cube speaker


I had the same problem.
Step one: pop of the grille with a screwdriver or knife inserted from the bottom so that any marks will be hidden when you get the two halves back together.
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