Question about Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

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My kenmore top load will spin with no water in it but will only hum if there is a load. agitates ok but then just hums. Lid switch is OK

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This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump
removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (110.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Three possibilities: since you can hear the motor (Ranging from easiest to messiest) None of the suggestions are very expensive.



Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the

transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or
spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=135

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.


If the motor coupler is OK, the problem could be the clutch:

Sears has a replacement clutch band kit.

See the following for how to pull the pump, motor and transmission.

You DON'T HAVE TO PULL THE AGITATORS OR TUB.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=65fc1c013d6130868b14c8bb4baf7bfd

Also see the Whirlpool / kenmore service manual for these washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Both the Motor coupler (available from most appliance parts stores) and the clutch band kit are relatively inexpensive.

See the Following Whirlpool parts list for alternatives to the Sears part numbers.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf


If the Motor Coupler is fine, and the clutch bands and springs are OK the problem could well be the transmission. "Neutral Drain Assembly".

See the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service manual for transmission operations on top load direct drive washers.

WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf


Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.

When ours had a similar problem, we looked at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) and noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).

You don't have to remove the drum.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.

Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.

Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams and spin gear.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit or spin gear, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.

Posted on Sep 08, 2010

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1 Answer

WASHER FILL, NO PROBLEMS AGITATING, WHEN TIME


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.

If you cannot hear the motor trying to turn the pump, (but the washer will agitate) the problem points to the Timer, or the Lid Switch.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

This is the Whirlpool PDF on installation and maintenance of direct drive washers. See the section on how to bypass the lid switch and on the transmission.

WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Following is an illustrated description of how to remove the cabinet on Kenmore / Whirlpool top load direct drive washers.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Since it won't drain, the problem points to the lid switch. You already have the cabinet off so replacing the switch isn't too difficult.
The Sears site has the Sears (and probably Whirlpool) part number.


Oct 08, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

I have a kenmore heavy duty, series 70,# 82872120.. It makes a humming noise and will not complete the rinse cycle or the spin cycle.


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.82872120

If it goes through the agitate cycle, the motor and transmission are probably OK.

If it goes through the initial drain / spin cycles after the first agitate cycle, the Lid Switch is also OK.

The humming could likely be the timer motor. Try to manually move the timer to the rinse cycle. If the washer responds, the problem points to the timer itself.

See the sub component section on the Sears site for the Console.

The "Alt" part numbers are Whirlpool parts that can likely be purchased from a variety of on line or local parts stores.

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sounds like something is clogged in your pump under the washer.

see the motor drives the pump, but if it is clogged, the motor will not turn.

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Mine did the same thing. It was bad lid switch. It is best to replace switch, but you can bypass it by cutting its two wires, connecting them together, and taping the spice. Be aware by doing so that the washer will now agitate and spin with the lid up, which is the purpose of that switch. Also unplug cord from wall before doing any repairs. Attemp only if you are comfortable with wiring repairs.

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Hi, When the cycle goes into drain, do you hear the motor humming at all? If the motor does not hum, check the lid switch.
If the washer agitates, there must be a problem with lid switch ot timer. The lid switch is most common.
Please let me know if this helps or if I can assist you further.

Vic

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bad lid switch or bad motor coupler or both-mike

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Hi, Is the humming noise coming from the timer area? Do you know if it agitates ok?
When you have it in spin cycle, Try lifting the lid and see if the hum stops.
The reason for these questions is that on this model, if it drains the water out but does not spin, it is either lid switch, coupler, or transmission.
If it's the coupler, it will not agitate either.
Please let me know so I can assist you further.

Thanks
Vic

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