Question about Electronics - Others
Charge your battery, and connect it back to the travel trailer. Use a 12volt test light to make the connection between the cable and negative terminal on the battery.
If there is something drawing power, the light will turn on. Remove the fuses from the DC fuse block 1 at a time, make note of the current rating for each fuse position. When the light goes out, the last fuse you removed is where the culprit probably lies. Now that all the fuses are out, plug each one in, individually, and see when the light comes on. Look closely at the light. Some notorious items that are left on are the antenna booster for the TV, the radio (volume turned down), and lights in the storage compartment. Some fridges will have a small heating strip between the doors. This heat strip may not be turned off with the fridge switch unless it is put into storage mode.
2 hours on a freshly charged battery is signifiant. The average Group24 deep cycle battery, in good condition, has a capacity of approx. 100Amp Hours. Most are able to sustain a load of 20 amps for about 180 minutes, around 3 hours. To deplete the battery in 2 hours, is a very significant current draw.
There are only 3 things that can singly draw down the battery that quick.
1) Furnace - but you would hear this one running.
2) DC Cooling mode on the fridge. Silent battery killer.
3) The breakaway switch for the electric brakes. When the plunger is removed, full battery voltage is applied to the brake magnets. A dual axle trailer may have 4 magnets, at 8 amps each, gives you around 32amp current draw. If pulling the fuses doesn't yield a culprit, the break-away switch is probably it. Remove the plunger, and push it back in. Watch the light as you do so.
Otherwise, look at your trailer connector. If it has been contaminated with road grime and such, it can cause a partial short between the charge and ground terminals.
Posted on Sep 10, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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