Question about Sub-Zero Freezers

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My model number 2811 has ice build up on the right hand side of the freezer. the service manuals indicate i need to pull the "cal rod heater down to make contact with the evaporator assembly and silicone around the evaporation cover at the drain end." i can't find any schematics of where any of that is. any help out there?

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Diagrams here : http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Sub-zero-Parts/Refrigerator-Parts/Model-2811/3054/0161000?searchedModel=2811&blt=05

These are the best I can Do with the Diagrams but I can explane what is going on, and possible soloutions.

Your defrost drain is mostlikeley frozen. This is located on the right hand side, just inside the metal cover. When you remove the meteal cover (((evaperator cover or water pan))) you will see the hole on the right.

Since this is cloged then the water stays in the cover or pan and freezes after the defost cycle.

after you remove the cover you will see the evaperator (( aluminum tubing with fins))) and the heater ((( Black Rod )))

When your machine gose into defrost about every 8 hrs, this heater melts the ice off the evaperator((( Hence Frost Free ))) and the water goest into the (((( evaperator cover or pan ))) and flows to the defrost drain hole to a pan under the machine.


They make a after market heater for the drain... it is a pain to install.

First I would try to defrost the drain by poring war water down it and verifying it goes into the pan at the bottome of the machine.

When your done you will need to silicone around the (((cover / pan))) where it covers the defrost drain hole.


Good Luck
Don
Mr Fix it

Posted on Sep 08, 2010

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1 Answer

My upright frost free freezer is leaking water onto the floor.


Hello;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

You did not provide a model number so I can only be general. Your model number is on a label on the upper side wall.

You have one of three problems.

1.) A bad defrost timer.

2.) A bad defrost Heater.

3.) A frozen drain.

4.) A obstruction/leak - Large block of ice in the upper right hand corner of your cool coil.

Mar 12, 2015 | Frigidaire Freezers

1 Answer

Kenmore upright freezer


Hello;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

I am going to assume your compressor and condenser fan is running. Your condenser fan is in the lower back of your freezer.

You will need to remove the back cover in your freezer. There are 6 screws holding it on.

Check the following (Cover Removed):

1.) Frozen Drain - Your freezer goes into a defrost mode every 8-10 hours, where your freezer shuts down except for the lights, and your defrost heater turns on for about 20-30 minutes to defrost your cooling coil. If you have a frozen drain, the condensate builds up behind the back wall and icing the cooling coil, restricting air flow. You must defrost the coil.

2.) Freezer Fan Motor Failure - Having removed the back wall observe if the freezer fan motor is running. If not replace.

3.) Refrigerant Restriction or Leak - If you observe a large build-up of ice in the upper right hand corner, then you have a restriction or leak. The cost of repair would be about $400.00

4.) Bad Thermostat - In the upper right hand corner of you cooling coil, attached is your thermostat. They can explode, where the back of the thermostat will raise up.
22602419-rljzekqxa22lq3uayqx0h0vi-3-0.jpg 22602419-rljzekqxa22lq3uayqx0h0vi-3-3.jpg

You can also check it with a multi-meter, set to the lowest Ohms (Omega Symbol). You need to cut the wires, leaving enough wire length to rewire back in. Put the thermostat in a glass of ice water for 10 minutes. After, it should Ohm out around 16. It is reads '0' or infinity it is bad. Below 15 or 16 it is bad

Jan 01, 2014 | Freezers

2 Answers

Not freezing


Hello Jim;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

If you are getting cooling and not freezing your problem is not your overload relay or capacitor, otherwise you would get no cooling at all.

You have one of 4 potential problems.

1.) Frozen Drain - This is a common problem. Your unit goes through a defrost cycle every 8-10 hours, everything shuts down for about 20-30 minutes. This is when your defrost heater turns on and defrost your cooling (evaporator) coil. If your drain is frozen, a wall of ice builds up behind your lower back wall. This prevents the cooling fan from running and air flow through the cooling coils.

You need to remove the lower back cover to see what is going on. there are several screws holding it on. First remove the rubber seals on both sides. They just pull out.

If it is a block of ice, use a hair dryer to melt the ice and clear the drain. Do not try to chip away, you will damage the coils.

2.) If you observe the cooling coil fan not running and vibrating, then you need to replace the fan.

not-freezing-q5gyx04vmzg44gwribm3t5si-2-0.jpg Part Number: Substitution: 3-60336-001 Cost from Sears: $115.00. You can search the internet and get this part for about $80.00.

3.) Defrost Heater - You may have a bad defrost heater. Observe, is the glass tube black or is the wire inside broken?
not-freezing-q5gyx04vmzg44gwribm3t5si-2-2.jpg Part Number: Substitution: 3-80405-003 Cost: $40.00

4.) Refrigerant leak or obstruction - If you observe a block of ice in the upper right hand corner of your cooling coil, then you either have a leak or an obstruction. A repair of this nature with a service company is about $500.00.

5.) Bad Bi-Metl (Thermostat) - In the upper right corner is your cooling coil thermostat.

not-freezing-q5gyx04vmzg44gwribm3t5si-2-5.jpg Part Number: Substitution: 1-81801-001 Cost: $30.00

If you observe the flat back has popped open, then replace.

Sep 12, 2013 | Whirlpool EV181NZTQ Upright Freezer

1 Answer

I have a Sub-Zero 501 F upright freezer. I have never hooked up the ice-cube maker. There is a problem with ice build up in the drain tray and it overflows into the ice-maker. I had a tech in and he put...


sounds like the mullion heater (drain tube heater is open). take back off (after removing all shelves, including the glass tray (remove 4 screws). Pull back out, careful not to pull wires off T'stat. Run the new wires on heater behind evaperator, placing heater down in drain hole. Good Luck
Joe

Aug 09, 2010 | Sub-Zero Freezers

1 Answer

FREEZER MAKING ICE, BUT FOOD IS THAWING


If you have a Freezer on the top model Kenmore, with warm temps in the fridge, AND water dripping onto the top shelf of the lower fresh food compartment (FFC), this is usually caused by a clogged defrost drain. Since Kenmore is not an actual manufacturer of anything, they take other brands, i.e. Kitchenaid, GE, Frigidaire, etc., take their names off and put on a shiny Kenmore nametag. This is a common problem with Kitchenaid refrigerators. You can determine if your Kenmore is made by kitchenaid by looking at the model # tag. the first three digits will indicate the manufacturer, Kitchenaids begin with the sequence, 106.*.If this is indeed how your model # begins, keep reading. Since the water cant go down the drain tubing to the pan at the bottom of the unit, it builds up on the freezer floor, eventually blocking the air return vents from the fridge to the freezer, and the vent from the freezer to the fridge. YOu can check this very easily. Look at the ceiling of your FFC, near the back. toward the sides you will see two square holes, about 2" square, stick your finger and feel around the inside of those holes, do you feel any ice/frost, or do you just feel styrofoam, you might even see frost/ice below the level of your ceiling? This drain usually gets clogged with defrost water that does not completely drain, then of course it freezes, eventually plugging up the drian hole located at the level of your freezer floor, behind the back wall. The water keeps accumulating, and freezing, on the freezer floor, eventually filling in and clogging the air vents..no air flow , the fridge wont cool. The easiest way to resolve this, empty out all contents and store someplace cold for 24 hours...a 2nd fridge, outside in a cooler if its cold like here in chicago. After its empty, unplug, open both doors and blow a fan for 24 hours. Prepare for an abundance of water due to melting ice.
After you defrost, you can plug it back in and it will be fine, HOWEVER, I suggest you take the back freezer wall off, you might have to take a floor cover off first, likely 2-4 screws in both the floor and the back wall. When you have the evaporator exposed, you will see a black cal rod defrost heater underneath the evaporator, as well as your drain hole just to the right of center underneath both heater and evaporator. Take a piece of 12-14 gauge solid, not stranded wire, removing the insulation and exposing the entire 6-8" piece of copper wire. wrap the wire around the diameter of the cal rod heater, 3-4 turns should be sufficient, and stick the other end of the wire down that drain hole. This will melt any ice that will build up in the future, everytime your unit goes into defrost cycle, so this wont happen again.

If air vents are clear of frost/ice, next thing to check is the back wall of your freezer, does there appear to be frost/ice/snow on the back wall? If so, your unit is not defrosting. On most Kenmores, this is usually caused by your defrost timer, located in the canopy mounted at the top of the FFC on Top freezer models, or your defrost thermostat, which is clipped onto the evaporator coil inside your freezer. Again, if its a 106 model Kenmore, this thermostat will have a pink and a brown wire coming into/out of it. My suggestion, if it isnt defrosting, change both. tjhe defrost control will connect with a plug, but you will have to hard wire the thermostat, ( cut wires from old, strip wire, and connect using wire nuts and electrical tape.)

Since y ou mentioned the water accumulation, more water recently, my diagnosis would be the former versus the latter, as the lack of actual defrosting coincides with lack of defrost water, however I'll never say never.

If your unit is a side by side model, check for ice on freezer floor...clogged drain. Check again for frost/ice on back wall, not defrosting, check same two parts, (the heaters rarely go bad on Kitchenaids, but never say never) You should also check for air flow into fridge, even if no frost / ice visible on back wall. Open the FFC door, and locate the air vent near the top, back of the fridge, on the left wall. While depressing the door switch, AND WITH THE FREEZER door closed, put your finger/hand near that vent. Do you feel any cold air? If you dont, you could have a bad door damper, not uncommon, or a bad damper control--> the temperature control WITHOUT the off or "0" position.

If any of this seems a bit overwhelming, I suggest you have a reputable repair technician check your fridge.

Oh, and lastly, you WILL NOT have two compressors, one for each compartment, nor will you have two sets of defrost heating elements, one for each half.
ALL cooling for 99% of refrigerators made in last 25 years takes place in the freezer, with the fridge being an empty box, except for an air intake vent, and an air exhaust vent which leads directly back into the freezer. When a refrigerator unit seems to still be cold in the freezer, but not cold enough or not cold at all in the FFC, its ALWAYS going to be caused by lack of air flow. But as you can see, there are a few things that can cause that lack of air flow.

Apr 05, 2010 | Frigidaire 14.1 cu. ft. Upright Freezer...

1 Answer

The freezer motor is not running. the ice in the freezer is melted


If you are referring to the evaporator fan motor located inside the freezer, if it is not running, then your symptoms would be cold food at the bottom of both sections, assuming its a side by side, and warm food at the top, both sides, also the icemaker wont make ice, and water likely wont come out the door. Depending on your brand, it could be the motor itself has burnt out, or possibly a bimetal thermostat, a cal rod heater, or an electronic control board.

www.FixMyFridge.net

Mar 08, 2010 | Freezers

1 Answer

Subzero Freezer ice keeps building behind coils


in 601 model. really common problem is the drain hater. watch close the ice maker for a BIG long ice. on the cotton psrt of the back wall. some models have 1 some 2 depends in the serial num. ask you tech for replace the DRAIN TUBE HEATER. that way your cover. really helps a lot the code number...................good luck................. leave a comment...........thanks

Sep 28, 2009 | Sub-Zero 19.3 cu. ft. / 547 liter Upright...

2 Answers

My upright freezer won't self defrost. Frost builds up right awa


The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

If you need help finding your model number see here> http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx

To locate your timer, motherboard, control or adaptive defrost control , enter your model number and search for the part or post back on Fixya.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?psid=26129238&sid=PSx20071217x00001a

Sep 19, 2009 | Kenmore 13.7 cu. ft. / 388 liter Upright...

1 Answer

Water is building up in the bottom of my side by side freezer and freezing.


sounds like you have a clogged defrost drain tube. removing back panel of freezer will give you acess to drain trough, melt away the ice with a hair dryer, youll find a drain hole under there somwhere,pouring boiling water down the drain will clear it pretty quickly( i use a steam machine purchased from the infomercials works awesome, after you clear it and all water drain down tube wrap a piece of solid copper wirearound the heater( black calrod heater right above the drain trough) and stick it in the whole maybe an inch or so. now everythime the heater comes on to defrost it will prevent the hole from freezing over

May 07, 2008 | Freezers

7 Answers

Ice build up in my frost free upright freezer


I looked at the BACK at the bottom underneath of my Sears Kenmore frost free upright freezer and what was causing the ice buildup was very simple. At the factory, the assembler looped the little hose too high and when the water went into the hose it could not get out due to being too high in one spot! An ice dam will form, blocking ALL water coming through
and freezing up any more water coming down giving you a HUGE wad of ice that is scary!!! I just removed the screw holding the loop that holds the hose and put a bit of warm water down the little hole on the INSIDE (Behind the grate) to melt the remaining ice in the tube.You need to take out 4 screws and remove the grate to see this. I could not believe that this was the problem! I haven't had any ice build up since.Now don't tear your freezer apart before you try this trying to fix the compressor, thermostat etc. It may be the only thing wrong with it!

Nov 11, 2006 | Kenmore 16.7 cu. ft. / 473 liter Upright...

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