Question about KitchenAid Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Pierce, there was a service bullitin put out on this model. TDR-0010A-B. Had to do with normal freezer, warm fresh food compartment. Maytag issued a kit that included a new thermostat and damper assy. to solve this problem. Bullitin came out in 2002. If you are not having a defrost issue and all fans are running normal, I would call Maytag and inquire about the above posted bullitin, It may be covered. Catriver...post back.
Posted on Sep 04, 2006
You have done a good job of attempting to diagnose by process of elimination, but this is a more complex system. I have provided some links below to assist you in diagnosing your problem. Links courtesy of www.repairclinic.com.
1. Ascertain that the evaporator fan is operational. This may be controlled by the Door Switch, (No.4) and could cause the fan to be inoperable.
2. Ascertain that the Fresh Food compartment light goes off when door is closed.
3. The air diffuser may be faulty by not controlling the air flow from the freezer properly
Tip: Always maintain dual temperature control settings at equal or +/- 1 setting position.
How refrigerators work:
You will need to verify operation of the following components listed below:
1. Evaporator fan motor
2. Air diffuser assembly
3. Light switch for refrigerator/freezer light
4. Door switch
Click on the links to identify the parts listed
Parts breakdown diagram:
Posted on Aug 13, 2009
Due to only lower cooling of the refrig , this sounds like the freezer fan which circulates the cold air into the refrig , has stopped working . This will be one of two things . Freezer fan not working or defrost problem . Open the freezer door and listen for the fan . If you do not hear the fan , remove the inside freezer panel ( lower ) by removing the 2 screws . If the fan is not working , replace the fan motor . If the coils are coated with thick frost , you will need to check the defrost system . Unplug the refrig and inside the refrig section at the top about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull downward and foreward , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4" screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 phillips screw behind both light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these 5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive defrost board . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrig's , a white box will be seen. Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then another color , then white . Useing a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will bypass the adaptive board and send power directly thru the defrost bimetal ( thermostat ) AND heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrig back in . Now , wait about 3-5 min and look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater .If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bimetal are good . If you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrig and reinstall the refrig control section .
Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace then to the top of the coils and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good . If the element IS good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils . This is the defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good . If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the bimetal come wired togather and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bimetal already wired togather . This would be the adviseable replacement part . However , each part can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bimetal and the top plastic " cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bimetal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its designed function .
Posted on Aug 01, 2010
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