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Getting a f1 blower motor error message. I have 216 volts going to the board. Have 2.3 to 2.5 ohms of resistance on the windings and nothing grounding out to ground or the chassis. Replaced the blower motor control 2x. These are revisions c's for the boards. What else is their to look for?

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: F1 Blower Fault, We have

The blower itself could be bad. Also the I/O board controls the BMSC

Posted on Jun 09, 2011

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1 Answer

What does the code F1-1 mean on Jenn-Air downdraft model?


If you see the F1-1 error code, I recommend that you continue to use the Quick Test to display the temperature sensed by the probe in the oven. If that temperature is way off, I recommend that you shut off the house circuit breaker for the range and check the resistance of the oven temperature sensor probe. The second image below shows how to access that component. Measure the resistance of the sensor with a volt/ohm meter. It should measure about 1100 ohms at room temperature (75 degrees). I provided a temperature/resistance chart in the first image. If the resistance of the probe is bad, then you will need to replace that component (part number 12001656).

zjlimited_1408.jpg__zjlimited_1409.jpg

You can order parts from the Sears PartsDirect website. If the sensor probe is okay, you will probably need to replace the control board in the console. I recommend that you have a service technician replace this component.

Hope helps.

Jun 12, 2011 | Jenn-Air Ovens

1 Answer

Oven won't unlock


You sound like you have a temp sensor error. Without knowing your exact model I'd say that you can open the door with a coat hangar , the latch is at the top in the center it is locked to the right (facing the front of the door), and it is spring loaded

Remove the temp sensor and take a ohm reading.
Appliance Tip of the Day: Oven Temperature Sensors Demystified grasshopper%202.gif Everyone knows what thermostats do: turn something on and off based on temperature. If your range has an electronic range control (ERC) board with the digital LED display, it doesn't have a thermostat. You know what I'm talking about, most ERCs look something like this.
tn_tempsensors.jpgRanges with ERCs use a sensor to "feel" the temperature in the oven cavity and sends that information to the ERC. The ERC then makes decisions about about heating the oven and controls the burner (in gas ovens) or heating elements (in electric ovens). Typical styles of range temperature sensors are shown
Inevitably, your range will one day start acting goofy and you'll need to check the oven sensor to see if it's causing a problem. On most ranges, a big clue that the sensor is the problem is if you're getting an F1 error code in your ERC display. So how do you check the sensor? Keep reading.
Oven sensors sense the temperature is the oven cavity by increasing their internal resistance, measured in ohms as the oven's temperature increases. This change in ohm resistance tells the ERC the oven cavity temperature and it turns the heating elements or burner on and off, as needed. Now, hang with me, grasshopper, 'cuz we're getting to the good part.
At room temperature, 70°F, the resistance of the most common sensors used today is 1000-1100 ohms. What this means is that if you pull those sensor wires to measure the sensor's resistance and it reads slap-a$$ open, why, it don't take a rocket scientist like myself to figger out that you got yourself a bad sensor! Wasn't that easy?
Just for grins, I've included the table below to show you the sensor resistance reading at various temperatures. Viva la resistance!
Oven Sensor Resistances Temperature (°F) Resistance (ohms) 100 1143 200 1350 300 1553 350 1654 400 1753 500 1949

Dec 12, 2007 | Ovens

1 Answer

I am getting a F10 err message on my 790.9744/ 9745. I turned off the power and the beeping stopped and the clock flashed. Waited a while a turned oven back on and after 10 minutes it started beeping and...


Hi, the F10 indicates that the electronic oven control board senses a runaway temperature condition in the oven through the oven sensor circuit.
This can be caused by a faulty oven temperature sensor probe or a failed electronic control board.
Oven temperature is detected by the control board as it monitors the resistance through the oven temperature sensor circuit.
You could have a failed oven temperature sensor, a wiring harness failure, an open thermal switch or a failed electronic oven control board that would cause this problem.
The first component to check would normally be the oven temperature sensor probe.
If you have a volt/ohm meter, you can shut off the breaker for the range and remove the screws that mount this sensor to the back wall of the oven.
Carefully pull the wire harness into the oven cavity until you get to the wire harness disconnect plug.
You should have enough slack to pull it this far into the oven.
Disconnect the sensor but do not let the wire harness retract back through the back wall of the oven or it will be hard to reconnect.
Measure the resistance of the oven temperature sensor with your volt/ohm meter. At room temperature, the resistance should measure around 1100 ohms.
The resistance chart is shown in the image below.

If the resistance is above 2200 ohms at room temperature, then the sensor probe is causing the F10 error code and will need to be replaced.

You can order a new sensor probe from the Sears PartsDirect website. The part number for the sensor is 316217002.

If the resistance is normal, then one of the other causes mentioned above is producing your F10 code.
You would need to access the electronic oven control board (Timer) in the console and check the resistance at the sensor circuit connection to the control board as the next step in troubleshooting this problem.

Dec 19, 2010 | Kenmore 40494 / 40495 / 40499 Electric...

1 Answer

Error code -F1- and broken glass door in lower oven


Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


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Apr 19, 2010 | GE Profile JTP56 Electric Double Oven

2 Answers

My turbochef tornado gives an error messag of


this is simple to fix but usually costly sorry to say.

F1 blower means the motor is not running when commanded.

first check the motor and verify if it spins freely - if the motor does not spin freeely remove the obstruction or replace the blower part# NGC-1025
just to clarify its the big blower behind the cook chamber not the little fan in the electrical compartment.

Dec 30, 2009 | TurboChef TORNADO Electric Oven

1 Answer

Recieving a F10 message


The F10 indicates that the electronic oven control board senses a runaway temperature condition in the oven through the oven sensor circuit.
This can be caused by a faulty oven temperature sensor probe or a failed electronic control board.
Oven temperature is detected by the control board as it monitors the resistance through the oven temperature sensor circuit.
You could have a failed oven temperature sensor, a wiring harness failure, an open thermal switch or a failed electronic oven control board that would cause this problem.
The first component to check would normally be the oven temperature sensor probe.
If you have a volt/ohm meter, you can shut off the breaker for the range and remove the screws that mount this sensor to the back wall of the oven.
Carefully pull the wire harness into the oven cavity until you get to the wire harness disconnect plug.
You should have enough slack to pull it this far into the oven.
Disconnect the sensor but do not let the wire harness retract back through the back wall of the oven or it will be hard to reconnect.
Measure the resistance of the oven temperature sensor with your volt/ohm meter. At room temperature, the resistance should measure around 1100 ohms.
The resistance chart is shown in the image below.

If the resistance is above 2200 ohms at room temperature, then the sensor probe is causing the F10 error code and will need to be replaced.

You can order a new sensor probe from the Sears PartsDirect website. The part number for the sensor is 316217002.

If the resistance is normal, then one of the other causes mentioned above is producing your F10 code.
You would need to access the electronic oven control board (Timer) in the console and check the resistance at the sensor circuit connection to the control board as the next step in troubleshooting this problem.


http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wbqdsfkrfqtswfqxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/krdbrtqkgxkrbbqbrwb/1/1303472/5961857/image37801img-or.jpg


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Jun 27, 2009 | Kenmore 47782 / 47784 / 47789 Electric...

1 Answer

F1 blowout


F1 means there is a problem with the blower motor.

1. Is air blowing into the cook chamber?
2. Do you hear rattles from the motor?
3. The 4-pin connector represent the windings in the motor, each should not measure more than 2.6 ohms. This is located back left corner on the motor controller board.
4. In front of that pin is the line voltage pin. There should be either 208 or 240 VAC across the blue and brown wires.

These are some quick troubleshooting tips....hope it helps

Apr 03, 2008 | TurboChef TORNADO Electric Oven

1 Answer

Sensor


I do not know this particular brand, but see my F1 F2 and F3 experience below

INGLIS Royal 100 STOVE F1 F2 F3 ERRORS
Mode lUP 48500 ( thats eye you, not ONE U )

I got the dreaded F3 error on the Display Panel,
every time I pressed BAKE or BROIL, BUT, I could
hear the three relays click in, and then kick out in
sequence, just before the F3 appeared.

I called Westinghouse ( that services INGLIS ) and
was told that F3 " means unpug for 1/2 hour and then
press CLEAR 5 Seconds to reset ". Which is nonsense.

All functions on the clock and timer work fine, and the
three relays were working, so its not a computer problem.
I called service REPAIR companies who said it was the
THERMOSTAT, and replace it - $147.99 ... The Glass tube
of the display is $200 with no circuit board, the relay board
is $300 and the computer/display is $400.

I did tests on the thermostat, first heating it with a propane
lighter, and it raised from 475 Ohms at room temperature,
to 600 ohms, so I knew it was functioning.

Then, I plugged in a variable resistor where the thermostat
plugs in. I went from Zero Ohms resistance to 5000 Ohms in
200 Ohms steps.

Zero Ohms ( equal to burnt out or unplugged) gives you
an immediate F1, which you cannot clear.
From 100 Ohms to 400 Ohms, you get Error F2, which
means thermostat too low.
From 400 Ohms to 665 Ohms there is no error.
At 665 Ohms, the BAKE will beep twice, stating that you
are setting the temperature at or lower than the actual temperature
of the oven ( you cant set the oven at 200, for example, if it is
already at 450 Degrees )
Using this 2 Beep code, I raised and lowered the resistance
and made a graph of the reading on the display versus the
OHMS that the thermostat would send to the controller:
665 Ohms = 170 Degrees Farenheit, which is the
lowest reading in the BAKE MODE.
800 Ohms = 240 Degrees
1100 Ohms = 380 Degrees
1400 Ohms = 500 Degrees, which iis the maximum that
the unit showed in the BAKE MODE.
1430 Ohms to 2750 Ohms, there was no reading, an NO ERRORS.
ABOVE 2750 OHMS, the F1 ERROR appeared again, meaning
thermostat out of range.

Note that the computer module supplies 5 volts DC to the thermostat,
to see the changes in current with changing resistance.
You can easily check the thermostat to see if it is OK, with an
Ohmeter across the thermostat, which should read about 475 Ohms
at room temperature. If it reads Zero, it is burnt out. If it reads
over 2750, it is defective. Check to see if the thermistor in the
tube is SHORTED to the steel outter case as well, as this should be
infinite ohms ( no contact )- if it reads ZERO it is shorted to case.

I found that on the Internet, there are hundreds of people looking for
the F3 code for the ROYAL 100 ( model number IUP 48500 )
and a general search shows that for 400 " other" models of all kinds,
F3 = REPLACE THERMOSTAT ! Not on this model, and all typical searches
for technical support or diagrams or troubleshooting did not even list
the Royal 100 AT ALL, as if it never existed.

I then did tests on the relay board, and replaced the capacitors, a few diodes,
some resistors that were a bit out of value, and two transistors that were
a bit out of value. There was no change in F3.

I cleaned the contacts on the three relays using a typical board fingernail
file that ladies use for their finger nails ( I keep a supply for cleaning
relay contacts, since there is sandpaper on both sides, and they are
tiny enough to fit between most contacts ). THEN, I realized that the BROIL
contacts were bouncing apart - they were too far apart, and not closing
properly, so I bent the stationary contact a bit closer, and plugged in the
stove = NO ERRORS..

I analysed the circuit, and after turning on the 3 relays ( NOTE, when you
turn on BAKE, as in a regular oven, THE BROIL ELEMENT goes on at first
to quickly help the BAKE element get the oven up to temperature )
there is a feedback circuit that feeds 250 Volts back into the 5 Volt computer
chip ( ! ! ! ) It uses two 22 Meg Ohm resistors in series for a total of 44 Million
Ohms, which shows about 46 volts accross the resistors. Since the gas
tube display uses 30 volts to light up, the 46 volts is within the computer
board's ability to lower it enough to feed into the computer. There are transisors
on the back of the control board and Zener diodes etc. to " compare " the
voltage, where 46 volts in = 250, and Zero volts, means that the element
is burnt out, the element fuse in the fuse panel is burnt out, or, the relay
contacts are dirty. The relays are absolutely standard 24 volt relays,
with a plasic cover that snaps off if you pull and wiggle it. You will see
the round silver contact pads are blackened and probaly pitted.
Sand these flat until silver/brass shiny, and test to make certain that
when you press the metal lever that the magnetic coil pulls DOWN,
that the contacts touch! If they do not touch tight, bend the
stationary contact in a tiny bit and test again.

You can first check the fuses - there are two 120 volt fuses in the
fuse panel that give you 250. Then, you can unplug the stove,
and use an OHM meter to see if the element is burnt. The two types
of elements I checked were 3000 Watt at 18.7 Ohms, and 2500 Watt,
at 48 Ohms. If the elements are burnt out, you will get ZERO ohms.
If the element is burnt internally through the insulation in the tube,
and shorting to ground, between the ends and the steel back of the
stove ( ground) you will get a reading of X amount of ohms ( which
normally should be ZERO ) If the element is burnt or shorted to
ground, replace.

The F3 error is a really dumb mechanical errror of whether the 250 volts
is on the elements. It does not involve the computer or the thermostat,
or the relay " electronics" at all - it is just simply 3 contacts that supply
250 Volts, and whether or not the contacts work, the elements work,
or the fuses work. This the same 250 Volts that is on an ordinary
dial stove, and the dumbest part of the whole unit.

When I called service, they said they would order the $147.95 temperature
thermostat, and " see if this fixes the problem", if not they would start
replacing the modules - $300 and $400, plus labour, plus tax etc., and
since the problem was on the module, this would cost $147.95 + $300,
plus $75.00 for the first 15 minutes, and $15 for each additional 15 minutes,
for a total of about $466 dollars ( CDN ) which is about $460 dollars US.

A package of 25 fingernail files is $1.00 at the dollar store. That is all that
it cost to fix the problem. You need a square ( Robertson ) head screwdriver
to remove the 7 screws on the back panel, and then you wiggle the
covers off the relays, and clean them. It takes 10 minutes.

good luck ! Damned the manufacturers for not putting this information
in the user manual.

Robin Graves, January 2008, kidbots.com

Nov 21, 2007 | GE Monogram ZET3058SHSS Stainless Steel...

3 Answers

Oven won't stay on and give an F error message


Disconnect the power. Disconnect the sensor harness from the control. Measure the sensor resistance (white leads). The resistance should be 1080 ohms at room temp. If the sensor is open the resistance is usually over 2900 and you get an F3 message. If the sensor is shorted the resistance is usually less than 950 ohms and you get an F4 error message. Also look for damaged harness terminals if not a bad sensor.

Aug 31, 2007 | Ovens

4 Answers

Won't unlock for a week...then F3


Try to cut power to the unit for a while. Also, check for loose electrical connections nearby and on the stove (unplugged or breakers open!!). Restore power. Fixed..done. Not fixed, change circuit board.

Nov 25, 2006 | GE JKP15 Electric Single Oven

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