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Hmph. Sounds like a boot issue. But for my standards, I write myself a checklist. I do this in order to keep track of all possible solutions. My Dell Optiplex GX280 can be a real pain. . I start with the way I am turning it on. Sometimes a system can be as finiky as a cat. Unplug the system from the wall. Then plug it back in. If it is on a shield wall jack that has a switch, if it is off, turn it on. from there. First, (when, and if it comes up), check through your boot system prompt. This usually takes the form of F2,or F1. If your system displays (cannot find harddrive), or shows a problem with the amount of space on your harddrive, make sure that you have backed up all your files before going any further. Also, check to see if your harddrive OS can find the correct place where your SYSTEM is located can find your system boot by selecting AUTO for your harddrive(s). It make it easier for your computer to find the OS system in which to bring your computer online. Second. Typically, (and depending upon your space on your harddrive), they tend to short you on your drive space. This will trigger your drive to shutdown, because it has run out of useable, writeable space. ALWAYS HAVE A BACKUP. If you can get into the actual BIOS, check and see if you have exceeded the harddrive space. Third. CLEAN OUT YOUR SYSTEM. Dust can cause havoc with your computer. Fourth. Check all your connections. Make sure that all your lines leading to your hardrive(s) are connected. Five. It is possible to have a hardrive failure. See if you can take it to a computer shop that you can trust to either retrieve the information on your harddrive, or install a new harddrive, and all of its drivers that prompt your programs to work.Six. TAKE PICTURES OF THE INSIDE OF YOUR COMPUTER. There are shops out there that will take out parts, and repackage them. Seven. Check your VIDEO CARD, as well as your wires. EITHER may need replacing.I hope this information is helpful, and can get your computer up, and running. :))
Its plastic. For a purely cosmetic repair (screen is unharmed?), you can buy all necessary tools and materials in well-sorted plastic model kit shops. E.g. Revell offers everything needed.
Try out on a spare piece of plastic FIRST, e.g. an old toy. Repairs like this require
some experience and considerable manual skill, but with training it becomes easier. You also want to get the
color mix for painting right to match the Kindle's original color. Exercise until you are sure you can do it properly.
Remove fine debris and rough edges from the scratches using a scalpel used for model kits.
Carefully fill in plastic model putty into the gaps, a toothpick may come in handy here. Let dry thoroughly.
Use fine (P280), then extra fine (P600) sand paper to even the surface. Don't scratch the screen, the buttons or any case part that still has its original state. If you want to the extra mile, you can also try to model the original surface texture (very advanced!).
Cover the screen, buttons and any case openings with frisket sheet or special cover gum, and use plastic paint (air brush if available) to fix the color. Apply thin layers one by one and try to achieve a soft transition from unharmed to scratched area.
May be a little different, than the Seagate FreeAgent external harddrive enclosures I've opened up. Here are for two styles;
1) Style one: External enclosure sits on a hollow tube that ends in a base.
Turn the Seagate FreeAgent external drive over on it's top, base up in the air. The base is formed out of two parts made of plastic.
A flat part on top, and a cupped shaped plastic part underneath. (Shaped like a rectangular cake pan)
The rectangular 'cake pan' part has 4 feet on it. The rectangular shaped part comes out of the flat base. If you look close you will see a parting line where the two plastic parts meet.
A flat tipped screwdriver is used to pry the rectangular shaped 'cake pan' out of the flat top part. Start in one area of the parting line, pry up a little. Move over, and pry up again. Keep going around until the rectangular shape comes out.
The flat part attaches to a hollow tube shape. Looking down there are three Philips head screws to remove. Removing them removes the flat shaped part of the base. One on each outside edge, (Two total), one in the middle.
The flat part comes off. Then you will see two more Philips head screws to remove. One on each side.
After removing the base, and the two screws listed above, the external enclosure comes apart in two halves like a clamshell.
The two halves have a parting line where a flat tipped screwdriver is inserted to pry them apart. DO NOT insert the flat tipped screwdriver tip, in between the two halves of the case, more than the length of half the length of a fingernail!
It ISN'T an easy task to separate the two halves. You won't be using the external enclosure's case anymore. Also watch your fingers! The plastic edges are S-H-A-R-P!
One half of the external enclosure's case has tabs that stick out along the edges of the case. These are shaped like a square loop. The loop has a hollow space in it. A Female tab if you will.
The other half of the external enclosure's case has tabs, that snap into the square loops. A Male tab if you will. The female square loops are plastic formed from the case, and can break easily. After you open the case you'll see what I mean.
One half of the case removes. The other half has the Harddrive attached to it. After you remove the case half, you will see a metal shield. There are two long Philips screws that go down through the metal shield, and hold the Harddrive assembly to the other half of the case cover. Remove them. Two on each side.
You now half to use your fingers, and a little brute force, and pry the Harddrive assembly out of the case half. Metal shield and all.
You will see two wires, (Red and Black) that connect to the case half, and come up to a White connector that attaches to the Harddrive assembly. Disconnect the connector from the Harddrive assembly. Lay the case half aside.
You can now see how to remove the Harddrive from the rest of the assembly.
2) Style Two: Shaped like a book, with one side having a taper, or slope.
I believe this explains it better than I could. It's a video.
There should be no orange plastic in there. I considered the AV-1 myself years ago, but was already invested in Minolta gear.
Without pictures, it's really hard to say. I kinda feel like something that should never be there, got put into the mirror box/ shutter area. It got broken off when the camera fell down. It would cost too much to repair, so it was sold for parts.
Look it over to see if the shutter was damaged. I 'd think so, but check it. Can you remove the plastic without damaging the camera further?
The A-1, AE-1, AV-1 were very similar and very successful models for Canon and another "Spares" of that series should be easy to find. You most likely will need to get the shutter from another junker and have a shop cobble together one that works. You might ask the repair guy if he wants to keep the extra parts. You may get a discount on repair. Otherwise hang on to those spares yourself.
No. It is not that way. how it is read is as under:
1 K is 1024 bytes
1 MB is 1024 K bytes
1 GB is 1024 MB
1 TB is 1024 GB.
As per books.
BUT, when it comes to selling HDDs 1 TB is 1000,000,000,000 bytes.
the extra 24 bytes at each lelvel have been overlooked. Thats where you loose so much of disk space.
not to sure where to buy parts other then from a dealer. i also had this same gun and had the thing happen to me with the plastic assembley if i was you i would just spend the extra money and get Stanley Bostitch guns, or Senco guns, and get ride of the porter cable guns because they are built cheap. but if you must keep this gun you can check www.deltaportercable.com for parts
Call spare parts dept 1-800-222-2310
2 for parts
2 for help with part numbers
about 1.75 ea - gears are plastic/metal each seperate- part numbers VF800 - 04 to 07, 04 and 06 are the plastic gears and 05/07 are the accompanying metal gears shipped priority post 2-4days -- too easy!!