Question about KitchenAid KAWS750L Top Load Washer

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Model KAWE770BALO coupler between motor and transmission needs to be replaced. Should I do this from the back or bottom?

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NEITHER. The back panel is not supposed to come off on this washer and working from the bottom requires you to tilt the washer backwards which can cause the gearcase (transmission) oil to leak through the top breather hole. You need to remove the exterior washer case in order to gain full access to the motor coupling. The procedure is much simpler, then it sounds. the following link explains:


http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574231-replacing_a_motor_coupling


Your washer is manufactured by Whirlpool, so these instrucitons do apply. The part number for a replacement coupling is inlcuded in the link I provided. Replacements can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

Prices vary between sites, so shop and compare. The first three sites also have exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly identify any parts you may need.

If you have any questions, post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Sep 07, 2010

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Water drains, but drum does not spin. What is the process for removing the washer bottom and replacing the motor coupler?


there isnt a motor coupler the drum spins on a belt connected to the motor the pump has its own motor seperate from the drive motor

Mar 31, 2015 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

How do I change the coupler in a Kenmore Elite washer Model no. 11022954100


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-Parts/Washer-Parts/Model-11022954100/0582/0153200?pathTaken=

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump. This is likely why the machine drains.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

Jan 07, 2011 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Washer will not spin or agitate. found a round rubber piece on floor under washer with six plastic teeth like parts that appear to be broken off.


The motor coupler is broken and the black round rubber piece you found under the washer is the rubber grommet that connects the coupler parts. The six plastic teeth are the coupler prongs, 3 for each coupler part. Replace the motor coupler.

Disconnect power and release the console from the top of the cabinet depending on the model of your machine then pull forward and up on the console and lay it back on the hinges.
5b58821.jpg

9dec9ac.jpg

5b4b40f.jpg

e5a5ab8.jpg

Disconnect the lid switch harness connector by pressing on the tab located in the middle and pulling it up.
9698f29.jpg

The cabinet is attached to the rear of the washer by two brass-colored retaining clips. Insert a flat blade screwdriver into the turned-up edge of the clip, located on both sides, and then pry back to release the clip from the slot in the cabinet.
4e2277c.jpg

Open and hold the lid while grabbing the cabinet front opening then tilt the top of the cabinet toward you by pulling the cabinet away from the base. This releases the front and back slots of the cabinet from the tabs in the front and back of the base. Using the side of your leg and/or body as a support for the front of the cabinet, carefully lift up and set the cabinet aside.
8df0387.jpg

With the cabinet removed, pry the clips securing the pump to the motor off and remove the pump.
362516f.jpg

8f6d9e3.jpg

Disconnect the motor harness then remove the screw securing the bottom clip holding the motor and remove the clip. Hold the motor from the bottom while loosening the screw securing the top clip holding the motor. Remove the clip then pull the motor out of the washer.
f70a498.jpg

Remove the broken coupler parts from the transmission and the motor shaft then tap the new coupler parts in place or until the splines are even with the edge of the coupler.
029e147.jpg

Remove the motor mounting plate to remove the coupler part in the transmission side more easily.
2870fd6.jpg

Once the coupler parts are properly installed, put the rubber grommet into the coupler in the motor then line up the remaining slots on the grommet with the coupler prongs in the transmission and put them together.

Secure the motor with the clips and the clips with the screws then reconnect the motor wiring harness to the motor terminals and reinstall the pump in reverse order of the removal steps.

Bring the cabinet to the front of the washer then slide the front bottom rail of the cabinet under the rail at the base of the machine then lay down the cabinet into position. Make sure the slots in the cabinet sit into the tabs at the base of machine.

Reconnect the lid switch harness then push the retaining clips back down into position to secure the cabinet to the rear of the machine. Reinstall and secure the console to complete the repair.

Oct 12, 2010 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Kenmore washer it will fill agaite, drain the water out but will not spin


This is a clear evidence of a broken motor coupler. It is the one that connects the drive motor shaft to the transmission assembly and transfer the mechanical energy of the motor. The mechanical energy is not transferred to the transmission and therefore result in the agitator not to agitate and the drum not to spin. The drain pump works because it is directly coupled to the rear spline of the motor. Replace the motor coupler to address the problem.

Release the console from the top of the cabinet depending on the model of your machine then pull forward and up on the console and lay it back on the hinges.
5b58821.jpg

9dec9ac.jpg

5b4b40f.jpg

e5a5ab8.jpg

Disconnect the lid switch harness connector by pressing on the tab located in the middle and pulling it up.
9698f29.jpg

The cabinet is attached to the rear of the washer by two brass-colored retaining clips. Insert a flat blade screwdriver into the turned-up edge of the clip, located on both sides, and then pry back to release the clip from the slot in the cabinet.
4e2277c.jpg

Open and hold the lid while grabbing the cabinet front opening then tilt the top of the cabinet toward you by pulling the cabinet away from the base. This releases the front and back slots of the cabinet from the tabs in the front and back of the base. Using the side of your leg and/or body as a support for the front of the cabinet, carefully lift up and set the cabinet aside.
8df0387.jpg

With the cabinet removed, pry the clips securing the pump to the motor off and remove the pump.
362516f.jpg

8f6d9e3.jpg

Disconnect the motor harness then remove the screw securing the bottom clip holding the motor and remove the clip. Hold the motor from the bottom while loosening the screw securing the top clip holding the motor. Remove the clip then pull the motor out of the washer.
f70a498.jpg

Remove the broken coupler parts from the transmission and the motor shaft then tap the new coupler parts in place or until the splines are even with the edge of the coupler.
029e147.jpg

Remove the motor mounting plate to remove the coupler part in the transmission side more easily.
2870fd6.jpg

Once the coupler parts are properly installed, put the rubber grommet into the coupler in the motor then line up the remaining slots on the grommet with the coupler prongs in the transmission and put them together.

Secure the motor with the clips and the clips with the screws then reconnect the motor wiring harness to the motor terminals and reinstall the pump in reverse order of the removal steps.

Bring the cabinet to the front of the washer then slide the front bottom rail of the cabinet under the rail at the base of the machine then lay down the cabinet into position. Make sure the slots in the cabinet sit into the tabs at the base of machine.

Reconnect the lid switch harness then push the retaining clips back down into position to secure the cabinet to the rear of the machine. Reinstall and secure the console to complete the repair.

Aug 21, 2010 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Kitchen Aid Washer- fills ok (water level-ok), but will not agitate or spin, drains ok, and control timer advances ok. Please help? Where do I begin troubleshooting?


This is a clear evidence of a broken motor coupler. The mechanical output of the motor is not transferred to the transmission and therefore result in the agitator not to agitate and the drum not to spin. It drains because the drain pump is directly coupled to the rear spline of the motor. Replace the motor coupler to address the problem.

Release the console from the top of the cabinet depending on the model of your machine then pull forward and up on the console and lay it back on the hinges.
5b58821.jpg

9dec9ac.jpg

5b4b40f.jpg

e5a5ab8.jpg

Disconnect the lid switch harness connector by pressing on the tab, located in the middle, and pulling it up.
9698f29.jpg

The cabinet is attached to the rear of the washer by two brass-colored retaining clips. Insert a flat blade screwdriver into the turned-up edge of the clip, located on both sides, and then pry back to release the clip from the slot in the cabinet.
4e2277c.jpg

Open and hold the lid while grabbing the cabinet front opening then tilt the top of the cabinet toward you by pulling the cabinet away from the base. This releases the front and back slots of the cabinet from the tabs in the front and back of the base. Using the side of your leg and/or body as a support for the front of the cabinet, carefully lift up and set the cabinet aside.
8df0387.jpg

With the cabinet removed, pry the clips securing the pump to the motor off and remove the pump.
362516f.jpg

8f6d9e3.jpg

Disconnect the motor harness then remove the screw securing the bottom clip holding the motor and remove the clip. Hold the motor from the bottom while loosening the screw securing the top clip holding the motor. Remove the clip then pull the motor out of the washer.
f70a498.jpg

Remove the broken coupler parts from the transmission and the motor shaft then tap the new coupler parts in place or until the splines are even with the edge of the coupler.
029e147.jpg

Remove the motor mounting plate to remove the coupler part in the transmission side more easily.
2870fd6.jpg

Once the coupler parts are properly installed, put the rubber grommet into the coupler in the motor then line up the remaining slots on the grommet with the coupler prongs in the transmission and put them together.

Secure the motor with the clips and the clips with the screws then reconnect the motor wiring harness to the motor terminals and reinstall the pump.

Bring the cabinet to the front of the washer then slide the front bottom rail of the cabinet under the rail at the base of the machine then lay down the cabinet into position. Make sure the slots in the cabinet sit into the tabs at the base of machine.

Reconnect the lid switch harness then push the retaining clips back down into position to secure the cabinet to the rear of the machine. Reinstall and secure the console to complete the repair.


Aug 11, 2010 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Replacing drive coupler


First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Look in the section for the motor, pump gearcase and you'll see the Motor Coupler.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

YOU DON'T HAVE TO PULL THE GEARCASE AND CLUTCH.

See the following Whirlpool / Kenmore Service manuals for these machines.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf


If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

Jun 04, 2010 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore model #23922 washing machine won't spin


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (110.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump. This is likely why the machine drains.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

May 14, 2010 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

We have a clicking noise when the washer runs. I found a triangle piece between the bottom of the tank and the gear box, which loose. No way to get at it and no way to tighten it. Any suggstion? Gil


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Look in the section for the motor, pump gearcase and you'll see the Motor Coupler.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

Mar 19, 2010 | Kenmore Washing Machines

2 Answers

Loud whining during all cycles. All cycles work kenmore 24422300


First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?pop=true&modelNumber=110.24422300

Also look at the Whirlpool Service Manual for these washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

There are two initial possibilities.

The first is the Motor coupler .

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission. It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts. Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes. The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning and may produce a whining noise.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=135&osCsid=8eafd85bf867b2fe7d40982f5bac6c6a

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.


If the problem isn't the Motor Coupler, the other possibility is the Agitate Cam in the transmission.

See the Service Manual for how the transmission works and what the agitate cam does.


Also see the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models use the same part numbers.

The agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.

I had the same problem with gear grinding and this solved it.

Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

Nov 03, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

WONT DRAIN 100%


Could be a restriction in the drain line. You would be surprised at what can get into the drain lines.

With the machine empty, tilt it back enough so that you can get access to the bottom. Brace the machine so it won't fall. If there is a bottom soft panel please remove it. The water pump is located on the bottom of the motor. (It will be either white or grey.) Remove the hoses from the pump. (You are going to get a little wet.) check to see if there is any restrictions in the hoses. (I do this by blowing through them but you may want to do this in another way.) To check the pump, follow the motor toward the transmission. There is a coupler that connects the motor to the transmission. Turn this coupler by hand a listen to the pump. If there is any objects in the pump then replace the pump.

Also, while your under the machine it would be a good idea to check the motor coupler. Move it back and forth and check for any play in the coupler. If there is too much play then the coupler needs replaced. (A coupler that it severely worn can cause the same problem and still let the machine work.

Jan 10, 2008 | Roper RAS8445KQ Top Load Washer

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