Question about Baby Lock Imagine

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My serger, Babylock Imagine's looper threads are too tight. I have tried rethreading, adjusting the fine tuning screw and varying stitch lengths and widths. At the recommended setting for the 3 thread overlock the looper thread is being pulled to the back side. Everyone says that the beauty of this machine is that the tension doesn't have to be adjusted - but I DO need to. What am I missing?

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I am having this same problem today. The needle threads when pressed look almost like a flatlock stitch. There seems to be no tension. With BabyLock's auto tension system, I have no idea what to do. I've been on the phone with my dealer about this today and he is clueless as to what may be causing it. I guess it's time for a checkup.

Posted on Feb 22, 2011

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It's possible that there is a tiny piece of thread caught in the system that is fooling the machine's auto system. Please try cleaning the paths and rethreading.

Posted on Sep 24, 2013

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1 Answer

Setting a elna 792d for rolled hem


I don't know your model in particular but generally this is how you set up a serger/overlocker to create a rolled hem. Remove the left hand needle and thread if 4 threads are threaded). Now there is usually a lever around the stitching area that you slide back towards you to remove the stitching finger back (disengaged). Then you adjust the top looper tension looser (about 2-3) and lower looper tension tighter (7 or 8). Leave needle tension at normal tension (5). You may need to move the cutting blade to the right too. The technique is to cut the fabric wider but with a narrow stitch so the cut edge rolls under within the stitching. You want the top looper thread really loose so it rolls right around underneath up against the needle thread, the lower looper thread needs to be tight and almost invisible, pulling the upper looper thread down. I usually do a few test runs and check the stitching. Once happy, I turn the stitch length right down to 1 so it is very dense. This uses a lot of thread up.

Ideally use a wooly overlock thread on the upper looper as this "fluffs" out once stitched and "fills" in covering the fabric edge completely.
some good images here
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1 Answer

Instructions on changing thread tensions on a Mylock134


Probably the best thing would be to consult the owner's manual.

BEFORE you thread the serger, RAISE the presser foot so the threads will seat properly and the thread will slide easily. Be sure to thread each thread in the proper ORDER! (Usually upper looper is first, lower looper second and the thread tail should always end up laying OVER the top of the upper looper before passing under the presser foot.)

It is also helpful to use different colors of thread so it is easier to tell which thread's tension needs adjustment.

Sergers require varying tension settings depending on the type of stitch and the appearance you prefer. To achieve the standard stitch setting on most sergers, start out with all the thread tension settings at the midway mark between the high and low numbers. Then test and adjust from there.

Verify with the owner's manual that you are threading everything correctly and not missing any steps. If any thread happens to break or come unthreaded, it is usually best to unthread EVERYTHING and start over from the beginning. (Sergers are very finicky, so if you are frustrated trying to get things to work, the last thing you will usually try is unthreading and rethreading from the beginning.)

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Stitching is too loose on the Juno Janome Serger Model 3434D


sergers the most frustrating machines. Every time you change fabrics you go through a tension adjusting phase.

First make sure you have threaded the machine in the proper order. upper looper, lower looper, then needles from right to left. Always thread any machine while the presser foot lever is in the UP position.

If you ever break a thread... you MUST pull all threads and rethread using the proper order.

Ok that's out of the way. Pull all your threads and get out several pieces of the same fabric scrap. Thread each pathway with a different color. This will help you determine which thread is giving you fits. Sew a test strip. Which thread is loose? tighten/loosen that tension. Keep doing this until you have a well balance seam. Then clip the colored threads starting with the upper looper thread, tie off to your proper color for your seam pull the thread through and up through the throat plate. proceed in this manner with lower looper, right needle, left needle. Sew a test seam.

Good luck.

Aug 08, 2012 | Janome Sewing Machines

1 Answer

How do I set up my babylock serger for a rolled hem? What is the tension to be set at?


I don't know your babylock well, some of these have automatic tensions and electronic stitch selection. But a rolled hem is achieved on any overlocker in the following way; the actual dials and knobs might vary a bit.

Firstly there is a stitch finger that you need to change or retract so that the thread can roll the fabric rather than staying flat. For a normal seam this finger sticks out in the area where the loopers and needle form the stitch holding the cut edge flat until the seam is made over it. But for rolled hems you want to retract this finger so it does roll.

On the Bernettes this is a little lever in front of the stitching area that you pull back to retract the finger. Have a look around where the stitch forms and you should see the finger. Some machines, its a part you change on the needle plate with a screw driver, or just move a switch or lever.

You want the right hand needle in place, remove the left hand needle.

Thread upper looper with wooly overlock thread, this is a fluffy nylon that pulls flat under tension but relaxes and "fills" out once its stitched into place. Gives that lovely covered look you see on shop bought tablecloth edges. Your regular thread in needle and lower looper. Usually cutting blade to the right side as you want it to cut more fabric than in the seam so it rolls under. Now loosen off the tension on the top looper, (I use 2 on mine but this is something you need to finesse with each machine), and tighten up the tension on lower looper, (about 7). Leave needle tension alone.

Now test stitch on your fabric, and finess the upper and lower looper tensions until you get the lower looper thread almost not showing, it should be right up against the needle on the underside with the upper looper thread completely wrapping around top and bottom, pulling the fabric under.a seam like this.
10_16_2011_3_34_10_am.jpg

Test stitch and adjust upper and lower looper until this is happening.

Now, turn stitch length down to close up the stitching, probably 1 or 0.8 if you want a real satin stitch look to the hem.

Because of the stitch density this uses thread so do the finessing first, then turn the length down.

That's it! Now right down the tension settings you used and keep handy for next time.

Sep 24, 2011 | Baby Lock Eclipse Serger

1 Answer

I need to switch to rolled hemming and can't find my manual


Is this on a serger?

Rolled hemming on a serger is usually achieved by doing the following: thread up for three thread overlock using right hand needle. Move blade to the right to trim fabric wider (so it rolls inside the seam). Put woolly overlock thread through top looper (this gives a smooth finish to the rolled hem). Loosen off top looper and tighten up bottom looper so the bottom looper is up tight against the needle thread on the underside. Test serge to get the stitch right, then turn the stitch length down to 0.5 to close it up tight (this uses loads of thread so I usually get everything else right first, then make this final adjustment). On my Bernette 334D tensions are R-Needle - 5, Top looper 7-8 and bottom looper is 3-4. Stitch length 0.5, differential zero.

And usually you flick a small lever or change a little finger on the foot or plate where the stitch forms, there is some variation here between models. Early Elna L4 and L5 locks you had a little finger you changed with a screwdriver on the pressure foot. Bernette has a little slide mechanicism near the blade that you flick forward to engage.

Hope this is of assistance to you - I went for a 2 hour lesson on my serger when I bought it and then came home and repeated all the techniques shown and then made notes and stapled all the stitch samples into a notebook so I could remember how I did it.

Also there are some great books on Serging, Nancy Zieman is one name that springs to mind. Or try You-Tube, she has some videos up there too showing different techniques.


Apr 27, 2011 | Janome Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Serger stitch not forming right


It sounds like the timing needs to be reset by a sewing machine repair tech.

May 09, 2010 | Baby Lock Evolve

1 Answer

I require operating instructions as to what is requiered for flat bed stitching?


I can share the information for my BabyLock Imagine in hopes that it will help you.

There are options of 2 or three threads.

For the 2 thread the serger must have a 2-thread converter- aka, auxiliary looper or subsidiary looper.

This is a spring type mechanism that fits in a small hole at the top of the upper looper. It 'tricks' the upper looper into thinking it is threaded. It must be engaged by connecting to a small hole in the upper looper

Set up the serger for a 2 or 3 thread right or left needle.

Stitch width - wide if you are using the left needle and normal if for the right needle; length 1 - 3mm.

Needle tension loosened and looper tension normal.

Disengage the cutting blade..

Set the differential feed at normal.

Hope this will help.

Mar 19, 2010 | Janome Memory Craft Compulock

1 Answer

Hi..I have a babylock imagine, and trying to insert the upper looper thread and the thread won't go in all the way, no matter how hard I try, please help..Thank's


There is a wire threader that came with the serger that you can insert into the thread port to make sure the entry is not clogged with a broken thread.

I lost mine and use a length of fishing line.

Mar 18, 2010 | Baby Lock Imagine

1 Answer

I have a baby lock imagine machine. I'm sewing with streatch velvet, and the stitches are off the fabric, or the loopers are too loose. I tried tighting the looper thread fine tuning screw, adjusting the...


Stretch fabric is made for using the differential feed on your machine, sergers love stretchy things. Try widening the stitch you are using and turn your differential feed down one notch to allow the machine to get a good grip on the fabric, you may need to bump the differential feed up more if it still doesn't stitch nice, keep trying on a piece of scrap fabric of the same as you are using until you are happy with the stitch.Another solution is to put some lightweight tissue paper under the seams and then tear it off after you have sewn the seams, this works but will dull your blades over time.

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1 Answer

No stitches 925D.


Probably your looper timing is off. This is common, and just a necessary evil of sergers. Their tolerances are tight.
The operation of creating a serger stitch is a succession of thread grabing and delivering. One looper grabs a thread and delivers it to the needle and so on.
To check this, turn your handwheel slowly and check to see that the upper looper is meeting the lower looper by passing very close to the indented part at the back of the lower looper (indented part is called the scarf, this is where the looper threads form a lock) If not, it's the looper timing. If they seem to meet properly then check your needle. Is your needle up into the needle clamp all the way? Try a new needle. Even a slight bend to the needle will not allow the loopers to meet and grab or deliver thread. You might check the tensions. Thread has to have some resistance in order for the loopers to do their job,

If your looper timing is off, find a sewing repair person to retime the serger. Don't try it yourself or put this repair off. If the loopers go further out of timing, they might hit something and replacement can be costly.

Nov 18, 2007 | Brother 929D Mechanical Sewing Machine

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