One day found everything melting . turned the temp. dial off and back to medium . started running again and run hours before stopped again and did not come back on till i played with the dial . sears guy said possible defrost timer or compressor ( drawing 1.6 amps vs. 1.0) . changed d. timer, no help . so fridge still runs couple hours and shuts off, ice starts melting and won't restart without playing with temp. dial?
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
DEFROST PROBLEM The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm. You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
You will have to remove the inside rear freezer panel .The # 4 thermistor is bad . This tells the main control board , the temp of the coils , if they need defrosted , when they are thru defrosting . This thermistor is the 1 " long , torpedo looking piece , clipped on the top left of the coils , with 2 white wires going to it . Part number WR55X10025 . It would be advisable to also replace the # 5 thermistor , located at the bottom of the freezer , slightly in front of the drain , also with 2 white wires going to it , slid into a housing . This thermistor , is the freezer thermistor , which tells the control board , the freezer temp and when to cycle off due to temp setting .
Sounds like it's stuck in defrost. I'm not familar with this model so I can't tell you where the timer is located. Try looking on the back of the unit for a diagram that may show where the timer is located. Look for a small wheel that is made so that it can only be turned in one direction and use a dime to turn the dial until it clicks, the compressor should start.
. Cut everything off for a few minutes then turn it back on
and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to
Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload
relay. Check to see if the
condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no
Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should
How to check stuff> http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php
turn your freezer temp dial to off and wait 30 seconds, then turn it back on to max setting. if you have temp gauage you can try to check temp inside freezer, if not cold enough (less than 30 degrees) you could be losing freon gas. you need to call technician.
Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer
are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of
cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.
check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In
most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board.
If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.
You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks
and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace
the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the
timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
How to check
Chances are your defrosting clock is stuck or quit working. The clock works as timer to set time for defrost, at which time it stops the compressor, and turns a heater tube next the cooling coils to melt ice. It depends on your expertise if you want to try replacement,as most replacement are universal, and some rewiring is sometime involved. The clock is usually in front at the bottom behind the removable grill, or in the back. It looks like a square box with a dial that has a one way turn knob. To check use flat screwdriver to slowly turn dial (you can only turn one way) until the compressor stops, then wait to see if compressor starts back on it's own (it might take as long as 30 min.). If it does not start it's bad and need replacement. Of course you can turn dial again until it starts again so you can use fridge. If it does start it could still have been the problem where the clock got stuck, and you got it going again by turning the knob, but let it run. If it works for a while and then have the same problem again the replace clock. Hope this helps you
Keep an eye on the running time and temparture of the refrigerator. It will need time to return to normal cooling temps since the defrost and hot temps inside will take maybe a few more hours to reach normal. If not, get back with me and I will go through a step by step process on eliminations, If so I will need age of fridge, Make and Models Numbers, Thanks Sea Breeze