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Plumber didn't allow for drywall and tile when setting the shower tha valve

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Pioneer may have an extention kit for your faucet, call them at 1-(800) 338-9468

Posted on Sep 08, 2010

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Looking for an extension valve for shower faucet #108 191 Glacier Bay product.


Fixya is not a buying service. You may have to have the "plumber" redo the job; he forgot to measure the setback distance allowing for surface mounting of the escutcheon.

Nov 13, 2016 | Plumbing

1 Answer

What to do if i can't stop the water flowing from the shower spout and there's little water pressure coming from the shower head and a hand held shower?


One rule I live by: more parts, more problems. Sounds to me that the plumbing/valves were not insalled properly. If you hired a profesional plumber, have them fix it. I am a licensed profesional plumber and I offer a 1 year warranty on all my work. If the contractor did the work and does not hold a plumbing license, that person is still responsible and may have to suffer legal consequenses.

Sep 10, 2013 | Latoscana TC3TPW690 Water Harmony...

3 Answers

Should i use the same drywall in the bathroom as in the rest of the house?


I recommend using MR (Moisture Resistant) drywall for the bathroom, and possibly for the basement if there are moisture issues. It is not much more expensive, and it can save you a big headache later

Jan 16, 2013 | Drywall

1 Answer

I want to replace an old single handle builders no-name shower, about 15 years old with a gromhix 34436 unit. My shower is tile. What steps should be expected? Is this practical?


Usually a shower stall will boarder a wall where you can access the fixture by cutting a hole in a boaring wall to get at it. If it boarders a closet or someplace thats not conspicuos, there may already be an access hole. Once you have access to the old fixture, you can remove it and, as long as the new fixture is the same size or larger, it shouldn't be that much of a problem. You may have to make the hole in the tile larger but, you should be able to do that with a 90 deg. grinder. Usually most, if not all, shower valve(single) have pretty much the same configuration. If your pies look to be in good condition, you should be able to work with piecing in the new fixture. If you cannot access the fixture from the back sie, well, thats a different story and, alo of work in redoing tile you probably won't be able to match and, a little bit of drywall work but, if you only cut the hole a sbig a you need it,you use some sort of fired decorative tile to cover the repairs spot. It's up to you.

Jun 06, 2011 | Grohe Grohmix Thermostat Valve & Trim -...

1 Answer

We are staying in a rented home with a spa bath. Attached to the spa bath is a hand held shower. The showerhead rests above the bath but the pipe coils somewhere between the tiles and the bath and can be...


The grout between tiles is just for filling the gaps. The tiles are glued to the wall, usually with "thin-set" mortar. Unless that mortar is in very poor condition it is unlikely that you would be able to remove that single tile without breaking it. The wall behind the tile might be water-resistant drywall (a poor quality situation) or it should be cement-board. I suppose it's possible that there is already a hole in the wall behind the tile, but the hole would be smaller than the tile, and assuming 4 inch (not large) tiles, this is a poor choice to gain access to the pipes. The usual access is through the wall from the other side. During initial construction, a removable access panel is sometimes provided (depending on local building codes and whims of the builder). If there is no access panel, and the other side of the wall is drywall, then cutting a generous hole, and fashioning a plywood panel (with trim around the edge to cover the gap between the drywall and the plywood) is a pretty standard and simple approach (depending on your skills). As an alternative and for more info, here's a link describing how to install a plastic snap-in access panel. Good luck! http://www.diylife.com/2008/06/23/plumbing-access-panel-installation/

Jun 01, 2011 | Home

2 Answers

How do you remove wall tiles


Follow following steps -

1.Decide where to remove the grout
2. Scrape the grout away with a utility knife
3.Try a rotary grinder instead.
4.Remove grout until the spacer lugs are visible.
5.Chisel tiles away from the wall.
6.Break the tile if necessary.


If the tiles are grouted, you will have to clear the grout away first. There are inexpensive tools designed specifically for grout removal. After removing the grout, use a small pry bar or a similar tool to pry the tiles away from the wall. Most likely, though, if the tiles were installed onto drywall, the drywall will be damaged during removal. Fortunately, drywall is relatively easy to replace. Once the drywall surface is ready, new tiles can be attached with tile adhesive or mastic. Regrout and seal the tile around the new tiles. *If the new tiles are natural stone they will be very porous and will need to be sealed and dry BEFORE installation.
Perbaiki lantai teraso Teraso cor di tempat Terazo and mosaic tile
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Sep 14, 2010 | YouTube Videos

1 Answer

To whom it may concern, We recently bought a Hansa Polo mixer for our shower and our plumber has since installed it. However it appears it has been placed upside down, so our mixer is facing the wrong way....


Need Model # and brief description of particular model. You may be left with no option but to call in a professional who can pull the mixer and repair it without leaving any visibly noticable marks. Pulling the tile and drywall is a simple and straight forward repair that any competant general contractor can perform. There is no modification option to a mixer. My only question is "How did your plumber manage to install your mixer upside down?"

May 01, 2010 | Home

1 Answer

Shower stall in master bath of a 15 yr old home. the shower started having water problems after about 1 year, leaking water onto the drywall next to the stall. we have tried everything-recalking, sealing...


Did you use plastic pipe? What about the shower head? Does it have a rubber o-ring in it? Pull the pipe out of the wall at the shower head and peek inside for the o-ring. If it is there, just snug up the pipe, do not over tighten. We were ready with crow bars in hand to destroy a brand new shower we just finished, because we thought we had w broken pipe, Then the owner says he torqued up the shower head as tight as he could and I read where it had to be just finger tight. One more place to check is the faucet itself, take off the trim ring and look in there for drips. It could be filling up the wall cavity and stay wet for days. I would take apart the drywall on the other side before busting up the tile again. Check it out.

Apr 24, 2010 | Kohler Home

1 Answer

I would like remove old vinyl shower wall and install a tile wall. but do i have to remove the drywall also? I'm keeping the shower base.


if the sheetrock is in good shape you should not have any problems. If you are worried about mold and mildew, you might want to change out the drywall with either green coat or yellow coat- these are mold and mildew resistant

Nov 04, 2009 | Home

3 Answers

Bathtub drain leaking


Since two plumbers have tried and failed, I'm assuming that the problem is none of the obvious ones. I have two ideas for you, the second being the most effort, but also the most likely.

(1) If you have ceramic tile on the walls around the tub, sometimes cracks between the tiles will develop or the grout itself will develop leaks (become very porous). This would not necessarily show visible cracks, but could appear to be a drain problem since it will only leak during/after use. For this, you would need to patch the grout where needed and seal it well.

(2) You may have a leak in the piping under the tub. Since you mention a light fixture downstairs under it, it is likely that you can "create" access to the piping. This would require cutting a section of drywall out immediately under the drain and approaching the light fixture, about a foot wide should be enough to give you a decent look. Cut the drywall carefully so you can use the same piece to close the hole, with a little spackle, when you are done. Once open, turn on the water and watch to see where the leak is coming from. At that point you (or a plumber) should be able to identify what to do.

If your older house is "really" older and you have plaster instead of drywall, do the same thing, except you obviuously can't use the old plaster to fix the hole when you are done.

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