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When I am cutting through a wood threshold of hardwood my blade is stopping but the machine is still running

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This often happens when the washer next to the blade has been inverted. May not be what's happening in your case, but worth a peek.
Farmerbear

Posted on Sep 07, 2010

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6ya6ya
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Slows down and stops when trying to cut hardwood


You just do not have a saw that has enough power, the blade is dull or both. Change your blade and push the wood through slower or get a more powerful saw for the hard woods.

May 11, 2016 | Delta Saws

1 Answer

How do i finish a doorway threshold going from hardwood to linoleum, there is a height difference, the hardwood is lower.


You need a reducer strip. Find a local hardwood flooring supplier and tell them the height difference between the two floors and the length of the opening. Once you have the right reducer find a wood stain that matches your floor. Next stain the reducer and finish with either a high gloss or matt finish polyurethane coating available in a spray can. Once the piece is finished your ready to install it. If the subfloor is wood then you can nail it down and putty the holes. If your subfloor is concrete then you will need to glue it to the floor with some liquid nails. Apply the glue to the bottom of the reducer put into place and weigh it down for 24 hrs.

May 29, 2013 | Building Materials

1 Answer

New Homelite. Cut great for an hour, then the chain wouldn't grip or cut. Chain was loose so I tightened but still doesn't cut- just


The blade is no longer sharp, something not unusual after about an hour of cutting. How long a blade stays sharp depends on what type of wood you're cutting, whether the blade contacted the ground or anything other than wood at any time, and how hard you are working the bar through the wood. If you are cutting hardwood or something like railroad ties the lifespan of the blade is greatly reduced. You can easily sharpen the blade with a hand file or dremel tool with a chain saw blade kit on it or have the blade sharpened. Best practice is to have one or two extra blades so you can change them as they become dull.

Mar 29, 2012 | Homelite Garden

1 Answer

The saw is producing blue acrid smoke upon use. I am using a vacuum to evacuate the shavings, but the saw itself does not seem to be cutting the wood. I am using a hardwood and feeding it slowly into the...


check the blade, it sounds like it is burning the wood instead of cutting it. I would recommend using a carbide tipped blade for the hardwood. Let me know if you need more assistnace.

Sep 11, 2011 | Ryobi Saws

1 Answer

I don't know what all the lines and numbers mean on the Stanley 46-071 Quick Square.


I answer questions for free.
I used a framing square for every day for years and frankly I never knew all the lines either.
At fixya they say 'real' experts don't provide a link but instead explain every detail to answer the question.

However in this case, the best detail is the following:
Do a google search for 'how to use a framing square.'

http://www.carpentry-pro-framer.com/framing-square.html

After reading about the framing square, if you have a specific question how to use it, then add a comment and I will help fill out the details. For example if the terminology is confusing.

Here's my favorite framing square tip:
Put the square on the edge of a piece of plywood.
Hold the pencil at a mark.
Then slide the square along the plywood while holding the pencil, and it makes a long straight line. It takes some practice.

Here's another tip:
Sometimes when you cut a piece of wood, the power saw blade tears up the wood.
This is true with your hardwood cuts.
So let's say I am going to cut a 1x6 oak across the grain.
Oak is brittle and it chips with a crosscut, especially with a dull blade.
Use the square to draw a line across where you want your cut.
Bring the square back just a little from the mark ... maybe 1/32 inch ... then score the wood with a sharp utility knife.
Let the blade run along the square for a nice straight line.
Now when you cut your board, and the oak chips out, the little chips stop at the score line.

Nov 02, 2010 | Stanley 46 - 071 Contractor Grade Quick...

1 Answer

Not cutting through wood. Cuts are diminishing.


Sounds like the wood your cutting through is to hard for your battery powered saw....try one with a cord they work much better, especially for hardwood's.

May 03, 2010 | Dewalt DC390K 18v Cordless Circular Saw...

2 Answers

When cutting softwood/ hardwood should the saw


The blade should only be on a slow speed, for intricate work.
(To make sure that whatever you're cutting, doesn't get too excited.)
Otherwise, it should generally be on the fastest setting.
Thats it, oh except, be carefull and mindfull of what this baby can do;)
Don't forget to rate, thanks

Aug 01, 2009 | Saws

1 Answer

I am running a six inch blade width horizontal band saw in a sawmilling application, resawing flitches to thinner boards. Average depth of cut about eight inches. What blade life (swage set steel) should I...


This depends on the type of wood you are cutting. Hardwoods , like oak, will dull the blades faster and require a change after about 3 months if used daily 8x7 but you can get a longer cutting time IF the blades are carbide steel. You can add life to the saw teeth by keeping them clean and free of sap buildup too.
Specially when cutting pine.

Jul 12, 2009 | Saws

1 Answer

Blade misalignment


The 1590, like several Bosch jigsaws, has a selector switch to choose the type of cutting action. You have to choose the appropriate cutting action, either straight or oscillating, to accommodate the material you cut and the blade you cut with. For instance, if using a very slender blade for clean curved cuts in wood, a slight oscillating motion ( setting II or III) reduces friction on the blade. 
If you choose the straight cutting action you get maximum accuracy, but drastically increase the friction because the blade is held firmly to the roller bearing.  A slender blade can handle that for brief periods, (say... less than thirty seconds) in soft, thin wood with a straight cut. In hard woods or engineered wood products ( plywood, MDF etc.) the thin blade will heat up and bend. 
You can reduce friction by choosing an oscillating cutting motion, or you can use a larger, sturdier blade. The "Aggressor" blades do not cut as smoothly as the "clean" blades, but they cut faster and are stronger. To cut thick wood ( 4x4 ) or a long cut in engineered material, that is the blade I use. Select number III or number II for 'type-of-cut' and use a bigger blade. See if that stops the "bucking."
Good luck!

Mar 24, 2009 | Bosch 1590EVSK 6.4 Amp Top Handle Jigsaw

2 Answers

Blade Types


remember to match the blade width to the type of cutting you are doing. Also keep in mind: * Narrow Blades can make much tighter radius cuts, but tend to twist and wander when making long straight cuts. * Wide Blades can't make the tight turns that narrow ones can, but they hold a straighter line than their narrow counterparts. * The tpi determines the speed with which the blade cuts through stock. Blades with high tpi cut slower but leave a very smooth edge. They are best for detail work on thin stock. Blades with low tpi cut quickly and leave a slightly rough edge. They are great for resawing or long rip cuts. * Steel Blades are inexpensive and work well for cutting softwood. Steel blades, however, dull quickly in hardwood. * Bimetal Blades are made of high-speed steel and can cut thin metal or wood. * Carbide Blades are for wood cutting only. They are more expensive than other blades but stay sharper longer than steel or high-speed steel.

Aug 27, 2008 | Dewalt Variable Speed Deep Cut Band Saw...

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