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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
sounds like there might be a blockage in the condensate pan that is not letting all the water drain through the condensate line. if you can access this area try to clean all the debris out
Posted on Jun 12, 2009
if you have a closet behind the shower or a wall you may be able to get to the diverter without damage to the tile ,are you sure you can't just change the cartridge? most times this is all that is needed to fix a problem like yours.
Posted on Jul 24, 2009
using a pair of vice grips wrapped in a soft towel( to prevent scractching) turn the shower head in a counter clockwise direction to remove it then apply liquid teflon (real-tuf) to the threads on the shower arm and tighten the shower head but dont over tighten it liquid teflon is more effective at sealing leaks than teflon tape and it can be wiped clean
Posted on Dec 03, 2009
The most common reason for basement leakage is from the seal at the drain or the seal behind the overflow. With the overflow, the water trickles down after bouncing off your body and back onto the tub. This possibility MUST be eliminated first before determining the next step, Turn on the cold water and fill the tub and let the water go into the overflow for about 5 minutes. This will simulate someone in and using the shower. Check for leaks in the basement.
This test, as simple as it is, will also implicate bad plumbing connections at the valve itself behind the wall as well as eliminate backsplash from the showerer bouncing back onto your control valve(s).
If you have a leakage, wait a day and, with the drain open, turn on the hot/cold valve(s). and waste some water for another 5 minute test. This test eliminates the overflow as a suspect, and with the drain open almost always eliminates the drain as well. Hey..in plumbing there are no perfect answers.
If you still have leakage and no one is showering you have pretty well isolated the valve or connections to the valve. If you don't have leakage, it points to water bouncing off the body and onto the control valve(s) at which point resealing would be in order.
You can get leakage also if the caulking around the tub where the tub meets the wall has gone south. Stamped out steel tubs (common in rental apartments) have open corners so if the wall-to tub caulking is poor then the shower bounce off the body will easily trickle to the basement. This is not an issue with cast iron or fiberglass/plastic tubs.
If these tests truely point to the valve(s), repost your ? and refer to the drain tests completed, and supply as much information as you can about the brand and age of your valve(s)
Posted on Jun 02, 2010
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