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Re: system check is showing an error on defrost
It can be fixed by a novice with some guidance. Check the continuity of the defrost heater located behind the back wall of the freezer compartment. Those heaters are usually the problem. At least from what I've seen. I usually go for them first. If it showes no continuity, then thats your problem. Just a couple screws and two wires to replace the heater..
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Fridge freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:
AT TIMES The fan usually stops working due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .
Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?
The "Er dH," also known as the Defrost Heater Error message, is displayed when the unit fails to reach 46? F within 2 hours of beginning its defrost cycle. This may be an indication of the defrost heater having broken or the temperature fuse having been pulled out of its slot. Contact customer service if the problem persists after having attempted a system reset.
Unplug the refrigerator for 30 seconds and then plug it back in. Doing this will reset all the codes. Sometimes an error appears by fault. If it does not appear again after restarting, then the refrigerator is fine. If the code appears again, then there is a problem with the defroster.
The error code itself means that the defroster mode has failed. This means that the defrost mechanism cannot reach 46 degrees Fahrenheit within two hours to defrost ice in the freezer properly. Unplug the refrigerator and move all the items that can spoil into a backup fridge or freezer.
Look in the back top of the freezer. Use a screwdriver to remove the ice maker machine that blocks the back defrost panel. Remove the two side screws and pull away the plastic cover guard. Check the wire. If it is unplugged, then secure it to see if that is the problem. If the plug is connected, then remove it to check for more problems. Look for any faulted wires on the defroster. If it appears that the wires are fine, you need to replace the defroster panel. Contact your local LG dealer for the specific part number
Since the defrost problem wont just go away here are details about how it works.
DEFROST PROBLEM The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm. You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
Try performing a complete defrost. Do this by leaving the unit disconnected from power .
the unit restarts cooling after defrost, then problem was defrost
system or damper (ventilation) system. Those are the most common reasons
for insufficient cooling. In that case if there is a faulty part in
the defrost system you will get the problem again in few days or weeks.
In that case defrost thermostat, timer, element and fan must be tested.
Here an example showing testing on a different model. Testing is the
same with your fridge.Part location is different. To locate parts see
the link at the bottom of this comment. Here general procedure to test
and repair the defrost system: When the fridge is not cooling ...
the unit does not restart cooling after defrost, then the problem is
different. The most common occurrence is a defective capacitor.
The capacitor is mounted on the compressor. Its function is helping the
compressor to kick on and run by ensuring a charge reservoir. Check defrost first.
There are more
problems that can cause no cooling, but they are not very common.
Check the defrost system. If defrost system is OK try replacing run
I'll just throw this out there and you can take it for what it is, just my experience as a fellow technician.
I've seen some recent defrost elements being broken which 9 times out of 10 check out OK. It is usually right at the point of where the wire enters the element and it has fooled me at first a few times. I can ohm it out and it seems fine. I got lucky one time and as I was twisting the wire checking continuity, it showed itself open, now I've seen several over the past 2years or so.
I have been repairing appliances for around 20yrs. and it is something I've only seen occur recently on late model fridges. I will admit most of those have been of the Frigidaire/Electrolux variety, but I just thought I'd put that out there for you. I know you could be scratching your head over this for days otherwise and it may not be the case, but you may want to try a heating element...considering all you've done this far it would appear you have nothing to lose.
Here's wishing you luck from one who's been where you are. Good luck.
Milk can sometimes curdle in a working fridge. But it does sound like your defrost system may be malfunctioning. Can you empty your freezer and inspect the defrost system behind the air circulator fan?
I know that defrost elements sometimes go bad and the controllers can pop too. You should check your operators manual and see how to put the fridge into manual defrost. *(it usually involves turning the fridge light on and off by hand. See if the freezer drains during manual defrost. If you have lots of food that dries out in a frost free unit the moisture contains a lot of contaminants that can plug the defrost drain. Which leads to a blocked air passage between the freezer and fridge sides.
You might want to get a small backup fridge for a while to run this down.
Or just use up the food in your fridge before running the tests.
FF probably stands for "Frost Free". Yes. Your defrost circuit must have a temp sensor to tell it when the defrost is working. And for your fridge...it isnt.
The warm fridge/barely cold freezer are both common symptoms of extreme frosting of the cooling coils.
You need to manually defrost this unit and replace the defrost element and/or the controller board/power supply. You can buy them pretty cheaply online. Replacement is a lot easier if you just shut off the fridge and let it come to room temp before removing the coil cover.
Go to the GE website and get an online diagram of your fridge so you can see where the parts all reside. If you timer is mechanical it should have a way to manually trigger it to confirm the heater element works. IC based boards need special commands to go manual.....but you should be able to get this info from GE.