I have a Guardian mod.# 0052430/ ser.# 4670889 that has low voltage at generator output circuit breaker after a spike in voltage from utility company occurred ( aprox. 30 volts to ground and 60-70 volts between phases). I would appreciate any help.

If you have already replaced the voltage regulator and checked the grounding wire, the next step would be to check the circuit breaker.
Here's how you can check the circuit breaker:

1. Turn off the generator and unplug all appliances connected to it.
2. Open the generator's control panel to access the circuit breaker.
3. Check the circuit breaker for any signs of damage, such as burnt or melted parts, or loose connections.
4. If there is no visible damage, use a multimeter to test the circuit breaker. Set the multimeter to measure resistance (ohms) and touch the probes to the terminals of the circuit breaker. If the circuit breaker is working properly, the multimeter should show zero resistance.
5. If the circuit breaker is faulty, it will need to be replaced. You can contact the manufacturer or a qualified technician for assistance with replacing the circuit breaker.

It is also possible that the generator's stator or rotor has been damaged, which could be causing the lack of AC output. In this case, you may need to contact the manufacturer or a qualified technician for further diagnosis and repair.
Please note that working with electricity can be dangerous and should only be attempted by those with the appropriate training and experience. If you are not comfortable performing these checks yourself, it is recommended to seek the assistance of a qualified technician.

Check "F1" fuse.

If fuse is good, check voltage at battery.

With either utility power present or generating running, the voltage at the battery should be >13VDC. Any reading less than 12.7VDC is battery voltage and indicates a failed charging circuit.

Did you reset the breaker to the oven when you switched over to batteries? If not turn it off wait a few mins. then turn it back this should work. Sometimes the control panel needs to reset its self.

has it got fuel in it.

Hi Jake and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly. Check both CB1 and CB 2 circuit breakers by pushing them to OFF and then back ON. Open the brush block access and then start the unit. You should read voltage at the brushes of 5 - 14 VDC on the terminals of the brushes. If you do not have 5 - 14 VDC at the brushes the probable suspect is the automatic voltage regulator (AVR). If you do have the correct voltages then with the unit OFF.... do a resistance check across the armature coil by reading resistance at the brush block terminals. You should read around 180 Ohms. It can be more or less resistance but for sure less than 500 Ohms. If you do NOT get a resistance reading remove the brush block assy and test the armature directly by reading across BOTH slip rings. You should get the resistance previously stated. If you have resistance then most likely there is a problem with the brushes. (Too short / broken carbon brush / missing spring or a defective terminal.) Without knowing the AVR output voltage and the armature resistance reading at this point it is difficult as to how to advise you to proceed. Let me know the values you obtain for AVR DC voltage at the brushes and actual ARMATURE resistance reading. Make sure you use R x 1000 on the meter. I am having thoughts of maybe a broken wire somewhere inside the control panel also.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Some generators have a wiring harness plug. Unplug harness and test for output there. If no output at harness, look for open circuit breakers and test any capacitors in system wiring. Some brushless systems use capacitors to excite armature. If diodes in armature are faulty there will be no output. Generators output two circuits of 115v each when combined will be about 220. If your generator has two 115v plugs each plug will be on a seperate circuit. To verify condition of stator windings, apply low ac voltage (8 - 12v ac less than one amp) to one of the 115v plugs and you should be able to read same voltage on second plug and double the voltage on the 220v plug. Good luck

WAS A 110 VOLT CIRCUIT RAN TO IT FROM THE NORMAL UTILITY POWER OF HOME OR BUILDING IT FEEDS?
NORMALLY THIS IS DONE IN A SEPERATE CONDUIT FOR CONTROL WIRES.AND THE FEEDERS ARE IN ANOTHER CONDUIT.
WITH A DIGITAL TEST METER,CHECK FOR 120 VOLTS AT THE BATTERY CHARGER IN THE GENERATOR CABINET.USUALLY THERE IS A RECEPTICAL TO PLUG THE CHARGER INTO.
IF VOLTAGE IS PRESENT AT THE BATTERY CHARGER AND INDICATOR LIGHTS ARE ON, CHANGE METER TO DC AND CHECK FOR 13.8 VOLTS OUTPUT FROM THE BATTERY CHARGER.IF YOU HAVE OUTPUT VOLTAGE TO THE BATTERY,AND IT IS DEAD,CHANGE THE BATTERY..

HOPE THIS HELPS YOU,BEST OF LUCK.....

Power tools CAN draw heavy loads if the voltage or frequency is off. Both of those CAN be a fault of the generator.

Check the frequency by plugging in a clock with a moving second hand and time it for 10 minutes against a quartz clock. ALSO do a voltage check with another voltmeter.

The 5500 Watt generator should hold 40 amps. Power tools with induction motors like some table saws take a large starting load near this value AND would be sensitive to low voltage AND especially low frequency, both of which will cause much higher current draw.

One MIGHT have to resort to put an oscilloscope on the output to make sure the waveform of the AC output is normal..

Sounds like the electritian wired something wrong. Control wiring for that generator should be:
N1 and N2 = 240 vac utility input
Wire 0 = ground
Wire 194 (15B) = + battery
wire 23 = transfer signal

I would say it is a matter of coincidence. If you are using utility company power the transfer switch doesn't engage, so you shouldn't be using the generic guardian.