Question about Generac Guardian Electrical Supplies

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I have a Guardian mod.# 0052430/ ser.# 4670889 that has low voltage at generator output circuit breaker after a spike in voltage from utility company occurred ( aprox. 30 volts to ground and 60-70 volts between phases). I would appreciate any help.

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  • robinetteele Sep 07, 2010

    Thanks for the advice. Can you give me some guidance on location and test procedures? Thanks, Richard

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  • Master
  • 5,603 Answers

Check the Automatic Voltage Regulato / control unit. It is likely damaged.

Posted on Sep 07, 2010

  • Fred Yearian Sep 07, 2010

    Almost all fixes for this I have heard involve replacement of the module.



    On page 15 and 16 are things talking about the regulator. If you don't have a user's manual, get one here:



    http://www.generac.com/Service/ManualSea...



    You will probably have to go to Generac to get replacement parts. Component replacement is not a DIY unless you are electronically skilled.



    I would FIRST look into your warranty to see if this is covered.



    Not knowing what kind of a surge/spike you had it is kind of hard to know what exactly is damaged.



    Note that if the spike was a widespread thing causing more damage, you MAY be able to get reibursed by the power utility.

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I need a rectifier or avr for generac 3500 xl genarator


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  • Jun 28, 2016 | Generac Electrical Supplies

    Tip

    Generator Not Producing Power ? Stator Winding


    There are 4 requirements that have to be met before a generator is able to produce power. Due to number of questions that have been asked, a Coleman PowerMate 1500-1850 with a Briggs and Stratton Engine will be used here.

    1) The Engine has to be turning at correct speed
    2) Field Winding (Rotor) on the alternator must be energized
    3) AC Winding (Stator) must create a voltage in presence of magnetic field
    4) Output passes through Safety Devices before it reaches an outlet.

    This Tip will cover the Stator Winding.

    The stator winding is the winding that is around the outside of the rotor. It doesn't usually move. Previously, the alternator design was called a revolving armature, in which the field was stationary (outside), and the stator (armature) was the rotating member. This quickly was replaced, eventually, by the revolvingfield configuration, since the brushes carry a relatively small DCcurrent, rather than a larger AC current with destructive arcing. Brushes were prone to failure due to high wear.

    In the revolving field architecture,there are primarily 3 types of alternators: Single Output, MultiOutput, and MultiPhase.

    The single output alternator is just that, it outputs a single voltage. Typically, it will be either120vac (60Hz), or a single phase 240vac (50Hz) depending on the country it was bought in. The stator winding of this kind of alternator has only a single winding, with 2 wires coming off of it. One of these wires goes to the neutral bus for the outlets, the other wire goes to the circuit breaker, and the other side of the circuit breaker goes to the outlet. Disconnect both of the wires, and use your multimeter to check the continuity between them. You should have continuity here. Also check each wire to the frame of the alternator, there should not be continuity here though. If you don't have continuity between the wires, or if you have continuity between the wire and alternator frame, then you have what is called a grounded winding. This will have to be addressed by a motor shop, or replace the stator in its entirety. It is generally more cost effective to replace the generator though. Remove and sell the copper wire, and use that money towards a replacement generator.

    Multiple Output alternators are usually found in the next step up from "bargain" generators. These usually will have an output of 120/240vac, and likely a low voltage battery charging circuit as well (12vdc being most common). The stator for these is checked in the same way as a single output, with a caution on the low voltage winding. On the low voltage winding,there will be a single diode (called half wave rectification) or a full wave rectifier (2 diodes) connected to the windings. You must disconnect at least 1 wire from the diodes to check the windings, and both wires to check for continuity between the windings and the frame of the alternator. If you don't disconnect the wire(s), the 1 way nature of the diode will indicate no continuity when there should be,and may cause you to not see continuity when there actually is (to the frame).

    If the low voltage winding is open, the generator is still usable for the 120/240vac features. You just won't have benefit of the low voltage battery charging circuit, which is actually a very poor charger to begin with.

    On a 120/240vac alternator, there may also be a switch that turns the 240vac on and off at the receptacle. This switch is put here so that the 2 120vac windings can be put in parallel for greater current capacity if 240vac is not required. If you have 120vac, but not 240vac, and the circuit breakers are not tripped, this switch is likely the culprit. It is just a double pole double throw switch that is easily replaced with one of the same type, and same or higher current rating. Never switch from 120 to120/240vac or vice versa while the engine is running. To do so invites winding damage due to arc-over, and may damage any devices that are connected from the voltage spike.

    MultiPhase alternators are nothing more than single output alternators with a twist. Rather than having a single winding, there will be 3 windings, with a 120 degree phase separation. The in phase neutral wires will all be tied together, but the phase outputs will be separated, and connected to the receptacle in a specific order. This is called a Wye (Y) configuration. An alternate configuration is when the windings are all connected to each other, end to end style. The junction of each connection is then brought out to the receptacle. This is called a Delta configuration. Three phase / multiphase alternators will not be discussed in depth here as a much higher technical knowledge will be required.

    As far as the stator winding goes, that is it. If you have continuity where you should, and don't have continuity where you shouldn't, the stator winding is likely good. As mentioned, if the low voltage battery charge winding is open, but not grounded / shorted to the frame, the primary function of the alternator is still usable.

    If your checks of the stator are good,time to move on to the next tip.
    Output and Safety Devices

    on Sep 24, 2010 | Electrical Supplies

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    Electrolux EI30IF40LS induction oven. It has started to beep ERR F68, but only when my solar panels are generating any voltage/current.


    Did you reset the breaker to the oven when you switched over to batteries? If not turn it off wait a few mins. then turn it back this should work. Sometimes the control panel needs to reset its self.

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    My Generac Guardian 15,000 Watt Model 004582 generator is putting out low voltage (about 45V on the 120V side). The trouble lights on the voltage regulator are lit as follows: Regulator light - lit red...


    Hi Jake and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly. Check both CB1 and CB 2 circuit breakers by pushing them to OFF and then back ON. Open the brush block access and then start the unit. You should read voltage at the brushes of 5 - 14 VDC on the terminals of the brushes. If you do not have 5 - 14 VDC at the brushes the probable suspect is the automatic voltage regulator (AVR). If you do have the correct voltages then with the unit OFF.... do a resistance check across the armature coil by reading resistance at the brush block terminals. You should read around 180 Ohms. It can be more or less resistance but for sure less than 500 Ohms. If you do NOT get a resistance reading remove the brush block assy and test the armature directly by reading across BOTH slip rings. You should get the resistance previously stated. If you have resistance then most likely there is a problem with the brushes. (Too short / broken carbon brush / missing spring or a defective terminal.) Without knowing the AVR output voltage and the armature resistance reading at this point it is difficult as to how to advise you to proceed. Let me know the values you obtain for AVR DC voltage at the brushes and actual ARMATURE resistance reading. Make sure you use R x 1000 on the meter. I am having thoughts of maybe a broken wire somewhere inside the control panel also.

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    I have a 5700 11 horse, (brushless). the windinds appear to be good,none burnt or open, but I have no output voltage. Any ideas?


    Some generators have a wiring harness plug. Unplug harness and test for output there. If no output at harness, look for open circuit breakers and test any capacitors in system wiring. Some brushless systems use capacitors to excite armature. If diodes in armature are faulty there will be no output. Generators output two circuits of 115v each when combined will be about 220. If your generator has two 115v plugs each plug will be on a seperate circuit. To verify condition of stator windings, apply low ac voltage (8 - 12v ac less than one amp) to one of the 115v plugs and you should be able to read same voltage on second plug and double the voltage on the 220v plug. Good luck

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    WAS A 110 VOLT CIRCUIT RAN TO IT FROM THE NORMAL UTILITY POWER OF HOME OR BUILDING IT FEEDS?
    NORMALLY THIS IS DONE IN A SEPERATE CONDUIT FOR CONTROL WIRES.AND THE FEEDERS ARE IN ANOTHER CONDUIT.
    WITH A DIGITAL TEST METER,CHECK FOR 120 VOLTS AT THE BATTERY CHARGER IN THE GENERATOR CABINET.USUALLY THERE IS A RECEPTICAL TO PLUG THE CHARGER INTO.
    IF VOLTAGE IS PRESENT AT THE BATTERY CHARGER AND INDICATOR LIGHTS ARE ON, CHANGE METER TO DC AND CHECK FOR 13.8 VOLTS OUTPUT FROM THE BATTERY CHARGER.IF YOU HAVE OUTPUT VOLTAGE TO THE BATTERY,AND IT IS DEAD,CHANGE THE BATTERY..

    HOPE THIS HELPS YOU,BEST OF LUCK.....

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    You should check your gen rpm to be normal. If so you may have field problem: rectifier, AVR etc.
    If you can measure the field DC voltage at rated rpm, if it is missing (very low) try to find any circuit broken.
    If you do not succeed answer this instruction in order to give you more.

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    Check the frequency by plugging in a clock with a moving second hand and time it for 10 minutes against a quartz clock. ALSO do a voltage check with another voltmeter.

    The 5500 Watt generator should hold 40 amps. Power tools with induction motors like some table saws take a large starting load near this value AND would be sensitive to low voltage AND especially low frequency, both of which will cause much higher current draw.

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