Trying this once again now that I have been able to establish a user
account - sorry for repeat post but I REALLY want to get my DA90ESG
working !! Any help is most appreciated -
I have the same model, same problem. I understand that one or more of
the output transistors are shorted. I took it to a repair shop in
Orlando. My problem is the repair tech said there are 16 (I think)
output transistors and they are around $25 each his cost - he showed me
in his parts book.
He said no way to tell if one was bad, a few, or all, without expending the labor to lift their legs off the circuit board, and he was not going to order 16 replacements which would cost him $400.
So I am stuck. I used to repair commercial power amplifiers
so I could do the work myself but the way consumer units are built 0
including this one - its a real pain to get in there and isolate each
output drive transistor to see how many are blown.
I love this
unit, despite its use of non-standard IR carrier frequencies, which is
why no programmable or universal remotes can learn its codes. But s
allows separate routing of audio and video, which is a rare feature in consumer units.
advice is appreciated. It seems to be the COST of the replacement
transistors and the labor to find out how many are even bad that is why
this repair shop just handed me the unit back. Maybe another repair
shop in the Orlando area ?
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 20 achievements.
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
Re: Sony STR-DA90ESG in Protect
Doesn't sound right to me. I work on these all day long. First of all the transistors from Sonty are probably $25 each. What were the parts? I usually use the Japanese equivalents. I'm guessing that the transistors are Mp and MN numbers. These equate to 2SB and 2SD numbers. These devices are the same. Sony re-brands the numbers. Also, if one of the transistors is shorted for one channel, change both for that channel even if the other measures good. I'll research your model and try to narrow this down a bit. In the meantime, lift the pins on ALL of the transistors and measure the voltages on all 3 pins. You should read (+/- 0.6 or 1.1V, 0.0, and B+/B-). Post those readings here.
a 6ya Technician can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Technician (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Check your wiring. Sounds like your "out of phase" The easiest way to tell if this is the problem is to adjust the balance from left to right. all the way on either side should sound good, then move to the middle and it sounds dead. That's it. Find your speaker wire that has the + and the - reversed and switch. If this is not the fix, post a comment and I can help you dig some more. Hope this helps
Reset can mean many things... Input/ output/surround/ or is it saying "Protect" on the display?
If that's the case, unplug, wait a minute, plug it back in and turn on. If it still say's Protect, disconnect the speaker wires and test again. Chances are you have a shorted wire or speaker. If you need something different, post a reply and I will help you further. Hope this helps
Try disconnecting all the speakers from the back and turn the unit back on. If the "protector" display goes away, turn the unit back off and reconnect one speaker. Turn it back on and check for "protector". Repeat.
If you find that one of the speakers causes "protector" to appear, you either have a bad speaker cable or bad speaker. Try swapping each of those out to see what happens.
You can try tighting the ground screws that hold the circuit boards and heat sink to the chassis, But more times than not it will need a pair of output transistors replaced (and a few resistors). This is a job for a pro. A rough estimate is $100-$130.
Sorry for the bad news.
Hopefully this post isn't too late... That receiver has the ability to disable certain inputs. The easiest thing to try is to do a factory reset. 1. Turn off the receiver 2. Hold down DISPLAY and PANEL UP/DOWN buttons and press power. 3. All Clear should appear on the screen.
Unfortunately, this clears out all of the other settings on your unit. It should, however, re-enable the inputs.
The receiver has detected a problem in the final output stage and has shutdown to prevent further damage to either the amp or the speakers. The most common cause of this is shorted output transistors. Figure about $15-$30 for parts plus the local labor rate.
The problem is that the output transistor(s) are shorted causing the unit to shutdown in what is called "protect" mode. This is a common failue and should be easily repaired by a service shop for about $25-$40 in parts plus labor.