Question about Mountain Buggy Baby Gear

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The plastic joint that attaches the rear axle to the side frame is cracked. The company will not honor warranty because they say I abused the carriage by bouncing it up the stairs. Is there any way to fix it without replacing the entire frame?

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Not really as its properly attached to prevent it coming off by accident.

Contact them don't disclose about it being bounced about tell them they need to honour the warranty unless they can prove you did damaged it and it just didn't break because of a manufacture problem. But the cost it would take and time to determine what actually failed on it would be too much they would just agree to honour warranty
Don't back down on first phone call keep calling until you get some answers..

Posted on Sep 07, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Company is not honoring warranty or extended warranty that was purchased. Piece that you plug the cable cord into fell off. Can it be fixed?


IF the connector for the antenna cable fell off then it is considered physical abuse and it wont be under warranty. However this is something that can be repaired by any shop or you if you want to try either getting the part and changing it or soldering the old one back.

Jan 14, 2016 | Televison & Video

1 Answer

I have a 26" alum mongoose on the frame their is 2 cracks where the handbar mounts is this factory warranty???


There should be no cracking in the frame if the bike has not been dropped or crashed at some stage which has then resulted in the cracking appearing.
If the bike has not been abused and the warranty is still current and not expired then you can make a warranty claim if you have the proof of purchase .
Read the warranty terms and conditions first which should have come with the bike documents. If not available, the warranty detail is probably published on the manufacturer's web site.

The better bike manufacturers using very good quality frames normally offer a long warranty on the frame. That is not the case for all the cheapie bikes which most people tend to buy.

Jan 03, 2016 | Mongoose Cycling

1 Answer

Warranty


"Kocaso tablets come with a 1 year limited warranty that covers defects in workmanship. The warranty is honored as a direct exchange with our company via our Ithaca, NY Returns Center. For this item there is no written warranty or forms to fill out. Should there be any issue within this time period please let us know and we will assist with troubleshooting, or a return if necessary. This warranty does not cover any physical damage such as cracks on the screen, or damage caused by water exposure. It does cover any software malfunctions or hardware issues not caused by user abuse. "

Report your request via this web page. Company Contact us

Feb 13, 2014 | Kocaso Tablets & eReaders

1 Answer

2000 gmc z71 passenger side cv joint is making noise when i turn......i talk to napa and can get rebuilt for 60$.....but to take it apart....do i need ball joint separator.....what tools..????


Never use a tool myself other than a big hammer. Those forks don't work for me, though we have them. Hit the joint on the side and it will pop out. If not, you can always put the nut back on even with the ball stud and hit it from the bottom. The book also calls for a special tool to get the axle out of the hub. Have never used this either. If it doesn't slide out, I just hit it--I have a new one anyway (take it loose from the tranny before hitting it). Tools you will need are the big socket for the axle nut (around 22mm or so) and regular metric socket set, preferably 1/2 in drive. Also take the speed sensor and brake lines off the support bracket to free up the hub a little more. Note that you may need to also separate the tie rod end if you cannot otherwise swing the hub out far enough to get the shaft out. The book says to take off the stabilizer and shock and also separate the upper ball joint. I don't know if that's necessary or not, as I have not done one on this particular truck. You are doing the whole shaft, right? We don't do individual CVs anymore, as the labor is ridiculous compared to the cost difference to a whole half shaft. Take the axle nut off, unbolt the shaft from the tranny, and swing the hub out. Pull the axle out of the hub first, then the tranny. Reverse procedure to install. I will paste the book solution from autozone.com below. Lemme know if you have more questions.

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Front wheel and tire assembly Skid plate, as required. If equipped Drive axle hub nut and washer Brake line and wheel speed sensor support bracket from the upper control arm to allow extra travel of the control arm. Left outer tie rod attaching nut and cotter pin. Separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle
  3. Position the tie rod aside and push steering linkage to the opposite side of the vehicle.

    Lower shock attaching nut and bolt; position the shock aside Left stabilizer bar bracket and bushing at the frame Stabilizer bar bolt, spacer and bushings at the lower control arm
  4. Taking pressure off the upper control arm by placing a support below the lower control arm between the spring seat and the ball joint.
    NOTE Cover the shock mounting bracket and lower ball joint stud with a towel to prevent the axle boot from tearing during removal and installation.


    Upper ball joint cotter pin and loosen (do not remove) the upper ball joint attaching nut. Separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Remove the attaching nut.
  5. Separate the axle shaft from the hub and rotor using tool J-28733 or equivalent.

    Axle shaft inner flange bolts and shaft
To install:
  1. Lubricate the axle and hub splines with an approved high temperature wheel bearing grease.
  2. Install or connect the following:

    Axle shaft in the hub Inboard CV-joint-to-flange bolts. Torque the bolts to 60 ft. lbs. (80 Nm). Upper ball joint to steering knuckle. Torque the stud nut to 61 ft. lbs. (83 Nm). New cotter pin through the upper ball joint stud and nut, lubricate the ball joint as required. Left stabilizer bar bracket and bushing at the frame Stabilizer bar bolt, spacer and bushings at the lower control arm Lower shock in the mount bracket and the attaching nut and bolt Left tie rod end at the steering knuckle. Torque the nut to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm). New cotter pin through the tie rod stud and nut Brake line bracket to the control arm, ensuring the line and/or hose is not twisted or kinked Skid plate, as required Axle hub washer and nut. Insert a drift through the rotor vanes to keep the axle from turning. Toque the hub nut to 180 ft. lbs. (245 Nm) Wheel and tire assembly

Oct 26, 2010 | 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

1 Answer

My speed don't work


Speed Sensors REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Front Fig. 1: The speed sensor sits directly over the exciter ring in the front knuckle 89609p51.jpg
Fig. 2: Detach the speed sensor connector in the engine compartment 89609p55.jpg
Fig. 3: Remove the speed sensor harness from the routing clips 89609p53.jpg
Fig. 4: A special E6 Torx® socket is required to remove the speed sensor retaining bolt 89609p52.jpg
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. From inside engine compartment, detach sensor assembly 2-pin connector from the wiring harness.
  3. Remove the steel routing clip attaching the sensor wire to the tube bundle on the left sensor or remove the plastic routing clip attaching the sensor wire to the frame on the right sensor.
  4. Remove the rubber coated spring steel clip holding the sensor wire to the frame.
  5. Remove the sensor wire from the steel routing clip on the frame and from the dust shield.
  6. Remove the sensor attaching bolt from the front spindle and slide the sensor out of the mounting hole. To install:
  7. Install the sensor into the mounting hole in the front spindle and attach with the mounting bolt. Tighten to 40–60 inch lbs. (4.5–6.8 Nm).
  8. Insert the sensor routing grommets into the dust shield and steel bracket on the frame. Route the wire into the engine compartment.
  9. Install the rubber coated steel clip that holds the sensor wire to the frame into the hole in the frame.
  10. Install the steel clip that holds sensor wire to tube bundle on left side or plastic clip that holds sensor to frame on right side.
  11. Reconnect the 2-pin connector to wire harness. Connect the negative battery cable.
Rear Fig. 5: Detach the speed sensor connector in the luggage compartment 89609p04.jpg
Fig. 6: Grasp the harness and . . . 89609p37.jpg
Fig. 7: . . . remove it from the routing brackets 89609p36.jpg
Fig. 8: The rear speed sensor is mounted on the back of the hub assembly 89609p32.jpg
Fig. 9: Remove the sensor retaining bolt and remove the sensor from the hub 89609p34.jpg
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. From inside luggage compartment, detach 2-pin sensor connector from wiring harness and push sensor wire through hole in floor.
  3. From below vehicle, remove sensor wire from routing bracket located on top of rear axle carrier housing and remove steel clip holding sensor wire and brake tube against axle housing.
  4. Remove screw from clip holding sensor wire and brake tube to bracket on axle.
  5. Remove sensor to rear adapter retaining bolt and remove sensor. To install:
  6. Insert sensor adapter and install retaining bolt. Tighten to 40–60 inch lbs. (4.5–6.8 Nm).
  7. Attach the clip holding the sensor and brake tube to the bracket on the axle housing and secure with the retaining screw. Tighten the screw to 40–60 inch lbs. (4.5–6.8 Nm).
  8. Install steel clip around axle tube that holds sensor wire and brake tube against axle tube and push spool-shaped grommet into clip located on top of axle carrier housing.
  9. Push sensor wire connector up through hole in floor and seat large round grommet into hole.
  10. Reconnect sensor 2-pin connector to wiring harness inside luggage compartment.

Aug 03, 2010 | 1992 Ford Crown Victoria

1 Answer

Cracked rear axle tube.


Ouch. It sounds like truck was overloaded with too much weight by previous owner.
Time to go to scrap yard and pick up a used rear axle assembly. Take it apart and check it for cracks before you reinstall it.

Sep 21, 2017 | 2002 GMC Sierra 2500HD

1 Answer

I need to know how to get to the rear suspension (tower)


i don't think you have to do any repairs from the top end. I will list most fromFord shop manual. Please rate as Fixya if this answers your questions. Please report back. Good luck.

Section 04-02: Suspension and Wheel Hubs, Rear 1994 Town Car, Crown Victoria/Grand Marquis. Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Spring Rear
Removal
  1. Position a hoist under the rear axle housing, and raise the vehicle. Refer to Section 00-02 . Place jackstands under frame side rails.
  1. Remove rear stabilizer bar as outlined.
  1. Disconnect the lower studs of the two shock absorbers from the mounting brackets on the rear axle assembly .
  1. Unsnap the RH parking brake rear cable and conduit (2A635) from RH upper arm retainer before lowering the rear axle assembly .
  1. Lower the hoist and axle housing until the rear springs are released.
  1. Remove rear spring and rear spring center mounting insulators (5741) from vehicle.
    -----------------------------------------------------------------
Shock Absorber Removal
Raise the vehicle on a hoist. 1. To assist in removing the upper attachment on shock absorbers using a plastic dust tube, place an open end wrench on the hex stamped into the dust tube's metal cap. For shock absorbers with a steel dust tube, simply grasp the tube to prevent stud rotation when loosening the retaining nut.
  1. Remove the shock absorber retaining nut, washer, and insulator assembly from the stud on the upper side of the frame. Discard nut. Compress the shock absorber to clear the hole in the frame, and remove the inner insulator and washer from the upper retaining stud.
  2. Remove the self-locking retaining nut, and disconnect the shock absorber lower stud from the mounting bracket on the rear axle tube.
  3. Perform Shock Absorber Checks. Refer to Section 04-00 to determine shock absorbers performance.
Installation
  1. Properly prime the new shock absorber . Refer to Section 04-00 , Shock Absorber Checks.
  1. Place the inner washer and rear spring insulator (5536) on the upper retaining stud, and position the shock absorber so that the upper retaining stud enters the hole in the frame. While holding the shock absorber in this position, install a new rear spring insulator , washer and nut assembly on the upper side of the upper frame. Be sure to seat the rear spring insulator in the frame attaching hole. Tighten nut to 34-46 Nm (25-34 lb-ft).
  1. Extend the shock absorber , and place the lower stud in the mounting bracket hole on the rear axle assembly housing. Install a new self-locking retaining nut. Tighten nut to 76.5-103.5 Nm (56-76 lb-ft).
  1. Lower vehicle.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Arm Lower
Removal
Refer to the illustration in Description and Operation. NOTE: To improve rear axle assembly noise and vibration concerns, the rear suspension should be fastened to the frame and rear axle assembly at the curb height position.
NOTE: If one rear suspension lower arm requires replacement, also replace the opposite rear suspension lower arm .
sra~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif WARNING: TURN REAR SUSPENSION LEVELER COMPRESSOR SWITCH OFF (IF SO EQUIPPED).
NOTE: If both rear suspension arm and bushings and both rear suspension lower arms are to be removed at the same time, remove both rear springs as outlined under Rear Spring Removal. For air spring removal, refer to Section 04-05 .
  1. Mark rear suspension shock absorber relative to protective sleeve with the vehicle in a static, level ground condition.
  1. Remove rear stabilizer bar as outlined.
  1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist, and place jackstands under the rear axle assembly . Refer to Section 00-02 .
  1. Lower the hoist until the shock absorbers are fully extended to relieve rear spring pressure.
  1. Support rear axle assembly under differential pinion nose as well as under rear axle assembly .
  1. Remove and discard the lower arm pivot bolt and nut from the axle bracket. Then, disengage the rear suspension lower arm from the bracket.
  1. Remove and discard the pivot bolt and nut from the frame bracket, and remove the rear suspension lower arm .
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Upper
Removal
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number Suspension Bushing Service Set T79P-5638-A1, A2 and A5 Rear Axle Control Arm Bushing Tools T86P-5638-AH
sra~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif WARNING: TURN OFF REAR SUSPENSION LEVELER COMPRESSOR SWITCH (IF SO EQUIPPED).
  1. Raise the vehicle, and support the frame side rails with jackstands. Refer to Section 00-02 .
  2. Support the rear axle assembly .
  3. Lower the rear axle assembly , and support the rear axle assembly under differential pinion nose as well as under rear axle assembly .
  4. Unsnap parking brake rear cable and conduit from upper arm retainer.
  5. Remove and discard the nut and bolt retaining the rear suspension arm and bushing to the rear axle assembly housing. Disconnect the rear suspension arm and bushing from the housing.
  6. Remove and discard the nut and bolt that secures the rear suspension arm and bushing to the frame bracket, and remove the rear suspension arm and bushing . If upper arm rear bushing is to be replaced, use Suspension Bushing Service Set T79P-5638-A and Rear Axle Control Arm Bushing Tools T86P-5638-AH and the following procedure:
  7. Place the upper arm rear bushing remover tool in position, and pull bushing out. Using Suspension Bushing Service Set T79P-5638-A install bushing assembly into bushing ear of rear axle assembly.
------------------------------------------------
Stabilizer Bar
sra~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif WARNING: TURN OFF REAR SUSPENSION LEVELER COMPRESSOR SWITCH (IF SO EQUIPPED).
Removal
  1. Raise vehicle on hoist, and place jackstands under the frame side rails. Refer to Section 00-02 .
  1. Lower the hoist and rear axle assembly housing until the shock absorbers are fully extended.
  1. Disconnect rear stabilizer bars from rear stabilizer bar link and bushing (5C488) . Remove bolts and stabilizer bar bracket (5486) retaining rear stabilizer bar to rear axle assembly .

Mar 05, 2009 | 1994 Lincoln Town Car

4 Answers

CLUNK IN REAR


There's a few more things to check out:
1. The track bar links, which attach from frame to the sway bar. Inspect the bolts/nuts to ensure they are really tight and the rubber isn't worn to the point of slack.
2. The bushings where the upper control arm attach to the frame. Inspect these for torn rubber/missing bolts. (These 2 bushings are on the fore end of the wishbone where you changed the upper ball joint.)
3. The bushings in the other, straight control arms that restrain the differential.
4. The shock absorber bolts/rubbers at frame and axle.
5. The u-joints on drive shaft.
6. The differential input pinion bearings. Raise vehicle and really yank/pry/push around the drive shaft and look for any slack.
7. The drive shaft at transmission. Check for any play over 0.020", side to side, up and down.
8. The transmission rubber mount.
9. The axle bearings. To check these, lift under axle, each wheel, and yank wheel fore/aft, up/down, and maybe use a pry bar. You're looking for axle bearing wear where the axle is supported at the outer ends of the axle tubes, just behind the brake mountings.
10. While the vehicle is raised (wheels off ground), chock the front wheels, and put transmission in neutral. Now check for significant slack when you manually rotate the wheels by hand, back and forth. If slack here (say, 10-15 degrees of fore/aft rotation on a wheel), then the spider gears are probably worn at the cross shaft in the differential carrier. Depending on the amount of slack, you can change the spider gears, side gears, cross shaft, and the associated thrust washers yourself, if you're a capable mechanic. This requires opening the differential cover, removing the rear axles (at least far enough to get the axles out from the side gears), remove the cross pin retainer bolt, manipulate the cross shaft out, manipulate the spider gears with their thrust washers, out, manipulate the side gears, with their thrust washers, out, then replace the above, with a 'gear kit', which includes the side gears, new thrust washer, spider gears, with new thrust washers, cross pin, and cross pin retainer. A 'gear kit' is around $85 for the Dana 44, 30-spline axle kit. While those parts are out, pry the carrier in each direction inspecting for slack in the carrier bearings and check the pinion/ring gear slack at that time. If you find a bad carrier bearing or pinion bearing, then you should probably find a mechanic to replace those, unless you're a 'very capable' mechanic. After reassembling the gear kit (side gears with their respective thrust washers, spider gears, with their respective thrust washers), cross pin, and retainer bolt, clean the sealing mating surface of both the axle housing and cover, remove the fill plug from the cover, apply RTV sealer to the cover (1/4" bead), attach the cover with bolts, replacing the tags in their original locations, refill differential with either 85w oil or 70W140 synthetic, as desired, approx 2.3 liters, replace plug, and check for leaks. Note: when removing the differential cover, remove all but 2 mid-side bolts, and make them loose. Then tap the very bottom of the lid towards the rear to loosen the cover, have drain pan under the differential to catch the oil. Then remove the 2 remaining bolts and cover. The lid projects below the housing about 1/16" and that is the part of the lid you want to bump on to loosen the cover.
11. Rear disc brake caliper mounting brackets.
12. The sway bar rubber mountings on the axle.

.. and that pretty much covers everything that can make noise on/in the rear end.

13. If a tow hitch is attached, check that for proper attachment.
14.Fuel tank loose, or fuel pump inside tank loose.
15. Spare tire loose, or junk in the spare tire carrier hole.
16. Loose junk in the right rear side compartment (this is actually a CD changer compartment, but if no CD changer is installed, then people put all kinds of junk in there)
17. Rear lift door. Open it a bit and check for side to side play. I've heard of terrible noise on my rear lift gate, and it was the rubber wind seal making a bunch of noise. I wiped it with a rag I sprayed silicone oil onto and quieted that down.

Aug 18, 2008 | 2000 Jeep Cherokee

4 Answers

CLUNKING NOISE FROM REAR AXLE


Problem I found: Clunk when driving over even small bumps.

If Grand Cherokee is 1999-2004, then check this: Above the differential is a wishbone cross member control arm. The cross member attaches to the frame in front of the rear axle (bolts through rubber bushings), and directly above the differential, at the apex of the cross member, is a ball joint. The ball joint assembly is a flange bolted atop the differential, with three bolts, and the ball joint pin protrudes from the flange through the cross member apex, with a nut atop the pin. Raise the frame slightly, and with a pry bar, pry above the flange, and below the cross member, very near the ball joint. If any motion is detected, then the ball joint is worn from the ball joint socket, or the nut is loose on the ball joint pin. If the nut is tight, then replace the ball joint. 2000 GC part number is 52088808AB, and is available from online sources or dealers. To replace this part, you'll probably need to remove the cross member, as the ball joint pin through the cross member is in a tight location, is tightly wedged into the cross member, and requires a special v-shaped puller to remove the pin from the cross member. If you don't have access to the puller tool, then remove the cross member for this operation. Raise vehicle slightly, under frame, in front of rear wheels. Unbolt the brake line and brake cable retainers from the cross member, then unbolt the flange from atop the differential. Then remove the two frame bolts and manipulate the cross member out of the vehicle, from above the differential.

With the cross member before you, support on blocks, loosen the ball joint nut somewhat, or remove it, and with a beater protective block, sledge out the pin from the cross member. Inspect the rubber bushings at this time. These bushings require an arbor press to remove/install, and the arbor press to install requires a spider so as to not rip the rubber bushing from either the bushing shell or center spool. The press spider is a 4-point tool you can make up from a piece of aluminum.

Bolt the new ball joint flange atop the differential, using blue thread locker, and torque the bolts to 100 ft-lb, cheater pipe useful here.

Replace the cross member to the frame, and install the two frame bolts, finger tight. Pull the member apex down onto the ball joint pin, and run the nut down. Using a box end wrench, hold the pin from rotation while tightening down the nut. Torque the nut to 100 ft-lb. Tighten the frame attachment bolts to 100 ft-lb, and reinstall the brake cable and brake line retainers. Do not over tighten these retainer bolts, as they are passing only through the sheet steel side of the cross member. Take care to not strip the sheet metal threadings. Lower vehicle and remove jack.

May 15, 2008 | 2000 Jeep Cherokee

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