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The 4 stroke shaft drives - usually, yes. One at the engine where the drive shaft/prop shaft goes to the rear end - at the engine end. If you can give your year, make and model I can check for sure. All the best.
Basic . remove drive shaft. remove rear engine mount after supporting gear box on mobile jack and engine ,with blocks under sump undo gear box bolts and if the starter motor is involved . remove the terminal from the battery first. undo the slave cylinder of the bell housing / cable if applicable. pull the gear box to the rear . remove the pressure plate bolts by going around the plate a little at a time . Lift the pressure plat away and catch the clutch plate as it falls out. Make sure that you see the way the clutch plate goes in as if you install the new one incorrectly you will be pulling the box again. check the spigot bearing / bush in the rear of the crank shaft and if faulty or worn replace it . check flywheel face and if you want a good job then have it re-machined to flat again . Follow tensioning procedures when replacing the flywheel. put the clutch plate in position and use a clutch aligning tool to ensure that it is centred. AT this point if the plate is in correctly you should be able to hold it against the flywheel and turn it freely without the hub hitting on the fly wheel bolts. fit the new pressure plate and do the bolts up in the correct manner to the tension specs. . Replace the throw out bearing on to the housing in the throw out fork. Remove the clutch aligning tool ( tap with hammer if it appears jammed ) refit the gear box and associated items in reverse order of removal.
Okay first your other responses are completly illiterate ok if the drive shaft is spinning that means the motors running for all of you other answerers that means gas is going through the carb into the engine and it's working perfectly fine. Now to answer your question if the rear wheels aren't spinning you probably have the same problem I'm having with mine at the moment you've drivien it too hard and the gears on the bottom end of your drive shaft aren't warn but inside the bell housing of your rear end where the drive ahft enters the gears are so worn you can't feel them in that case you would disconnect all of your sub frame conecters and the back shock then your rear end will come away from the four wheeler check the gears I told you about and if they are worn go buy new ones. Problem solved
Hi Ernest, It would help us to know more about the type of vehicle your are referring to. Is it a manual or automatic box? Is it fitted into a small passenger vehicle (a car) or is it a commercial vehicle? Is it front wheel drive or rear? Is it a two by four or four by four? In the event of it being a four by four, is it full time or is it selectable? A humming from the gear box will usually become more pronounced in one particular gear. If that is the case, the noise usually denotes a problem with the roller needle bearings for that particular gear. If the noise is in all gears it usually means that the problem is with the lay shaft bearing or that the gear assembly has been damaged in some way. If it is front wheel drive, the same diagnosis will apply, but added to it can be a problem with the differential (which is housed in the same housing as the gearbox. If the vehicle has a manual box, the thrust bearing can also give a humming sound sometimes when the clutch is pressed or sometimes when released. The test for that is simple. Start the engine push the clutch pedal and listen for any change in the sound. If the noise becomes more pronounced when the pedal is pressed the problem will likely be with the thrust bearing. If however the noise reduces or disappears with the same action, the problem is more likely to be with the input shaft bearing of the box. (The spigot shaft which is driven by the clutch plate or torque converter. If the vehicle is automatic The same may apply, or there may be a problem with the oil pump inside the box. These are just a few of the possible diagnostics for the limited info you have provided. The more you explain the more we can help! regards John
Unless you have a positraction rear differential, I'm surprised that even three are turning! Four wheel drive is really two wheel drive because both differentials are "open" type. In an open diff, only one wheel has power at any given time. With a positraction, or "limited slip" rear diff, both rear wheels push with fairly even force but the outer wheel is allowed to slip when going around turns. Only true four wheelers have either a limited slip on both ends or "locked" units but it is impossible or really difficult to drive anything like that on the street. If you hold the left front wheel from turning unless the locking unit is broken, the right front should turn.
yes it does take fluids, 10 weight 30 in rear end about half a liter and like 2 liters in the bottom end of the engne. to put the oil in the rear the screws on the top and take out bottom if u dont lubricate this, you will mess up your whole drive shaft and it will just slip