Water gets hot but doesnt pull water to grounds

Pull the oil filter & take it apart

I would never go to pep boys,
seems their handy work is part
to blame there

You do your own timing belt,why would
you have someone change your oil?

You likely took out the anti-scald ring out when you took it apart and then put it in in a different spot preventing the handle from turning far enough. You may also have the cartridge or handle upsidedown.

YES! Straighten out the T belt & look for any misfires. If u have any spring loaded pulleys or tensioners, REPLACE THEM. Did U have a misfire before u did the work?

Keep it open for a 4 or 5 hours... Then keep some cut lemon inside it.

I run out of hot water after one short shower. Lights looks normal. I have adjusted it every way I can, still the 50 gal water heater runs out after one shower. I have check the elements and are fine.

Robinson, it really sounds like the compressor is overheating. This may be caused by a low refrigerant gas in the compressor. Or the compressor's oil has leaked down. But, if you took the unit apart to clean it, I would think that you would have noticed an oily residue. If it is the compressor (other than needing to be recharged) it would cost almost as much to replace it, as it would be to buy a new unit.
At least with a new one, you'd have a one year warranty and more, if you purchase an extended warranty.

Hope this helped you.

I was having the same problem. No steam out the bottom. I took the whole thing apart and cleaned it...inside and the mop heads. I now get water to the heads but steam is still coming out the sides of the unit and leaking. I took it apart again and this time had my husband look at it. He found a tube with a spring in it...the spring had punctured the side of the tube and was leaking inside the machine! I am really upset by this as the machine never really worked right from the beginning but I really did not know it was not supposed to work this way. Now the machine is over a year old. I will be calling tomorrow and complaining but am not very optimistic that they will do anything and from what I have been reading will NEVER buy another one!

Once you checked the Fuse as OK ( engine compartment fuse panel, fuse #7 ) , might want to try shorting the Normally Open contacts in the Horn relay, to see if it is the horn, or the switch from the steering wheel.

Pull the Horn relay ( Ford 1/2 ISO relay ) Relay 205 in the same fuse panel in the engine compartment ). Looking into the relay socket, you will see 2 sets of pin terminals that are the width of the narrow direction, and 2 that are point the length.
The 2 pin terminals that are the direction of the narrow width of the socket, jumper with a 16/18 AWG, and the horns should sound.


If the horns do not sound, check the pin terminal #3 for +12 V DC ( hot all the time ) with a known good ground ( lug in the fender or the neg side of the battery.
If this checks OK, with the jumper in place, pull the horn connector,and check for +12 V DC on one of the pins, to a known good ground ( fender lug where the headlamps are grounded ).
Horns are behind the bumper on the passenger side, directly below the headlamp.
Next test the same, using both pins in the horn connector.
If you have +12 and ground at the horn connector, the horns are the problem for some reason.

If the horns honk doing the jumper test, work back towards the horn button / clock spring area.
Pin terminal #1 in the socket should be hot all the time, and the pin # 2 is what ground is switched to from the horn button, to activate the coil in the relay.

If you do not have ground at Pin #2 when pressing on the horn, try tilting the steering wheel all the way to the up position and try again ( some times the connector at the base of the steering wheel column pulls apart ).
If the tilt does not change getting ground to the horn relay, the next step would be to test the clock spring, but this requires removing the airbag, and really should be a professional job.

i had a diffrent problem. the water valve on the firewall was not opening when switched over to hot... the cable was not pushing or pulling. i took the control switch out (the knob that you turn for hot or cold) and took it apart. one of the sodier points off of that controle switch was cracked.. i just heated it back up and added a little sodier to it and whalllaaaaa works great but still trying to figure out why the blower motor doesnt work..... uhg

It's my opinion that the tube goes in the boiler so that when the water boils, the steam will push the water up the tube and to the brew head. Without the tube, you will just get steam through the grounds.

Good luck!