Question about Kenmore 88732 Top Load Stacked Washer / Dryer

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I have the 26-88732 washer - dryer Is it possible to change wiring so that the 110 v units will run at the same time Now I have to do a load of wash and then dry - I would like to do a loAD OF WASH WHILE DRING A LOAD OF CLOTHS. mitchmitchell47@hotmail.com

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 12 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore model 110 washer will not drain at end of wash cycle

It could be the lid switch or the timer.

Posted on Jan 31, 2009

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  • 117 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore 44152 3.5 high capicity washer will not spin

Open the lid of the washer and let it down gently to see if you hear a click when it closes. There is a lid switch that sometimes fails and prevents the washer from going into a spin cycle. If you don't hear the click when the lid closes, then you may need to have the lid switch replaced.

http://tclaundryrepair.com/home

Posted on Feb 19, 2009

Washer_tech
  • 164 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag washer

check to make sure the door is locking when it should. If the door isn't locking or sensing that its locked the washer will not go into high speed spin.

Posted on Mar 31, 2009

rylee_smith
  • 8619 Answers

SOURCE: Washing machine is not spining

Hi

If your washer won't spin, check these:

It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

  • If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.


  • If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.


It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

  • The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.


  • The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.


  • A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)


  • The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.


  • The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.


  • The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.


  • The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.


It spins only with the lid closed For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.


Please do rate the solution as "FixYa" if found useful and revert for further assistance.


Thanks

Rylee

Posted on Apr 01, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore 80 Series Model 110-25862 that won't start wash cycle

Check your lid switch. This is the most common cause of the problem you are experiencing. Symptoms may include, filling and stopping on the intial fill cycle, a wash tub that will not drain, and stopping right after the wash cycle and not advancing to rinse or spin cycles.

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3557193-replacing_a_lid_switch

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.

A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

This is a very simple and inexpensive repair that you can do without the assistance of a repairman. The average price is about $20 - $30 if you perform the repair yourself. Prices differ between sites so shop and compare. The part number for a replacement for your washer is 3949238.

NOTE: You DO NOT need to drain the washer to replace the lid switch. Once a defective switch is replaced, the washer will drain.

If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please post back and let me know. I hope this information is helpful.

Posted on Mar 19, 2010

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yes in that way work. Is o.k the power for dryer will be more strong that the washer, The reason is heating elements fro dryers.

God bless you

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Hello.. I have a 220v stack washer and dryer unit. I live in hawaii and never use the dryer and electricity here is at a premium. I would like to run just the washer on 110 and disconnect the dryer and run...


Hello Troy, I have checked the schematic which should be located behind the sloping front panel above the washer lid. The washer portion is powered by 110 vac supplied from the dryer's L1 connection (black) and the neutral (white). It should be quite simple to make an adapter with "hardware store" parts like a standard 20 amp plug and an appropriate 220 volt receptical. Please verify that the neutral lead goes to chassis ground and make use of the 110 plug's ground to the receptacal ground (green headed screws) with a seperate lead, for your safety. When the machine is plugged into the adapter, only the washer should function.
As a final note, I see that the dryer motor and timer are also 110 volt but are connected from the other hot lead, L2, to neutral. Only the heater is powered by 220 vac. Therefore if you should connect to L2 by mistake, only the dryer drum would operate. Unfortunately, I do not see a simple way to make both the washer and dryer run on a single 110 feed.

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Okay, here's the best I can do from this distance.

The combo unit is on a 30-amp, 220-volt circuit. One cord supplies both washer and dryer.

The breaker does not trip until the washer motor starts running simultaneous with the dryer drying.

My guess is that (if the combo unit is connected correclty to the one supply cord) the dryer motor runs off the 110 volt supplied by the red/white wires & the washer motor runs off the other 110 volt leg, black/white (could be vice-versa, but that's irrelevant).

The dryer heating element runs off the 220 volt supplied by the red/black wires.

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- The breaker is bad -- could just be oxidation on the breaker contacts in the bteaker box -- I havae seen this conditon -- small amounts of oxidation can cause the breaker to overheat and trip -- of course, the more current the load draws the hotter the breaker gets.

- One of the motors (washer or dryer) is beginnig to fail (windings beginning to short) and drawing more than rated current which is overloading the breaker.

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