Question about Brother XL-3510 Mechanical Sewing Machine

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Fabric feeds through really slow

I have a brother xl3010 and it had been working great, I dont know what happened but now the stitching is so close together and if I look really carefully it does pull the fabric through, but in order for the stitching to look normal I have to manually pull it through from behind which is kindof a pain, I asked somone else and they said it was the tension, do you have any suggestions and do you think it is easy to fix if I could just do it at home?

thanks
Michelle

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Remove the needle plate and clean the feed dogs(the grooves between the teeth)

Sewman7

Posted on May 13, 2008

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How do you change the stitch density?


How close the stitches are to each other? Stitch length?

There is a stitch length selector on your sewing machine. The owner's manual is the best source for information. Technically, the stitch length selector increases the movement of the feed dogs. The feed dogs pull the fabric under the presser foot. Increase the stitch length, the feed dogs increase movement and pull the fabric through faster.

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Feb 29, 2016 | Sewing Machines

2 Answers

Just received my machine and the fabric will not feed through.


It is likely that your feed dogs have been dropped. Try following the instructions listed in the attached link. It is also possible that something got jostled in shipping, and may need adjusting. If you can locate the feed dog drop mechanism and it is engaged, you may need to take your machine back to where you purchased it and have it replaced or adjusted.
How do raise or lower the feed dogs Brother

Nov 01, 2015 | Brother SE400 Computerized Embroidery and...

1 Answer

When sewing with the brother serger 1034d, loops of thread stick out beyond the fabric-it is not nice and close like it's supposed to be. the settings from left to right are: 4,4,3,3. this is what my...


Can you wind the lower cutting blade to the right to cut less fabric and therefore fill out the stitching? On most sergers the lower blade position can be adjusted sometimes with a little knob or dial. You need to raise the top blade out of the way first, usually you put pressure onto it to release the spring holding it up against the lower blade, then swing it up to do this. Then wind the adjustment on the lower blade and move it to the right to cut less fabric then test serge. Your manual should give you more specific information on this and should be your first 'go to".

I would adjust my looper tensions to suit the fabric and width of the stitch I'm trying to achieve so yes, the settings you've been given are average tensions but its okay to vary these too. From left to right, I'd set 4, 4, 4, 4 and test serge again and see if this pulls the looper threads in against the fabric if moving the blade hasn't tightened up the stitching.

Sergers are more variable than a straight stitch sewing machine so its okay to move tension knobs a bit, just turn each a half number each time you adjust, then test serge and look at the stitch formation. Your needles tension should be fine at 4, leave them alone.

I'd suggest if you can find one, go to a "Getting to know your serger" type class as there is lots of techniques such as seaming on a curve, turning right angles, both inside and outside and making rolled hem edges that are very helpful serger skills to learn along with making adjustments and troubleshooting. Or go to you-tube and search some of these techniques for videos. Also www.sewing.about.com is a great sewing resource and Debbie has pages on sergers/overlockers here too.

When I'm starting a new dressmaking project I will spend 10 mins on the overlocker/serger, changing the thread colour to suit the garment, then test serging and adjusting the stitch tensions to suit the fabric. I have 4 cones of thread each in white, black, beige, grey, pink and pale blue and these threads will give a suitable finish on most fabric colours and prints. Then there is wooly overlocker thread, this is a fluffy thread that you can use for rolled hems as the thread relaxes once stitched and "fills" out the closely stitched edge covering the rolled fabric edge and is another whole area of fun to try out.

Often I'll just use a three thread to neaten the raw edges of a seam I will press open. Or I will assemble a whole knit garment using the four thread stitch, so much faster then stitching seams, then neatening. Jersey knits and sergers are made for each other.

As an aside the D on your machine model would denote "differential feed" too - briefly differential feed is adjusting the amount that the two feed dogs move under the foot and means you can "hold back" the fabric as it is stitched (0.5), or "stretch" it out (1.5 or 2 setting). Really handy for loose weave fabrics that stretch as you serge them, you can compensate using the differential feed setting. And in reverse, you can create a "lettuce" or wavy edge by turning the differential feed up.

I hope that this helps you out with your Brother 1034D and hasn't just confused you. Good luck.

Aug 01, 2011 | Brother 1034D Mechanical Sewing Machine

1 Answer

The fabric isn't feeding and the stitches are really tight.


What is your stitch length set at? how high is your tension set? Try to set it between 3&4 then check. Your manual tells you how to do all of this. Go to Brother at www.brother-usa.com and download your manual for free. You can enlarge the diagrams and really see it up close. Good luck, if all else fails, call Brother at 1-877-276-8437

Oct 09, 2010 | Brother LS-2125 Mechanical Sewing Machine

1 Answer

Can't free motion quilt on Juki-T98QE


You need to be using a free motion foot or a darning foot, the regular presser foot is not for free motion.

May 29, 2010 | Juki TL-98Q

1 Answer

Feed dogs dont move fabric thur


Have you changed the stitch length selector to zero ? If there is no lint trapped under the needle plate between the feed teeth, then the length selector is likely set too small,.

Oct 03, 2009 | Brother CS-6000

1 Answer

Bobbin thread/feed dog eating fabric


This is a very common problem with really lightweight fabric and can often be cured (if doing straight stitching) by using a straight stitch needle plate and foot. The wider needle plate and foot openings on newer machines give the machine/thread a wider area to pull the fabric into the machine. By using a straight stitch plate/foot you remove the wide opening, eliminating the majority of the problem.

Also - try using a specially coated needle (Teflon or other non-stick finish). The thread feeds more smoothly through the needle and the needle more smoothly through the fabric, causing less drag into the needle plate opening.

Hope this helps. Don't hesitate to respond to this if you have further specific questions. We're always happy to help

Happy stitching,
Kim & Linnette
www.sewingexpressions.com

Dec 03, 2008 | Euro-Pro 8260 Mechanical Sewing Machine

1 Answer

Fabric pulls down into bobbin area


Increase your top tension, from 2 to 4, or from 5 to 6. Also check if there is no fluff or cotton in the top tension blades, preventing them from closing properly. Do this by lifting the presser foot and decrease the top tension to zero. This open the blades and allows you to inspect them. Good luck!

Nov 06, 2008 | Brother LS-1520 Mechanical Sewing Machine

1 Answer

Stitches don't feed properly


Remove the foot and the needle plate. Check the area where the stitches are formed to see if there are any rough edges on the plate or stitch finger. Sometimes you will find a crack in the plate that is hidden under the foot. While the foot is up, the gap closes but when it is lowered and fabric is trying to feed the crack opens and the rough edge won't allow it to advance.

Jul 13, 2008 | Husqvarna Huskylock Computerized 910

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