Wont spin and displays an Lr code - Maytag Neptune MAH6500A Front Load Washer

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The LR code means "locked rotor" which is just a way of saying the control is not seeing the motor turning.

The image below contains the wiring diagram for this washer as you requested but there are some other things to consider.

Usually when the LR code is displayed the motor has stopped turning for some reason. By definition the LR code means the control has tried to turn the motor but was unable to.

The error code can be caused by to large of load, to much soap/suds in the water or a problem with the spin bearing. The cause of the LR message can be little problem like suds or a major problem like the spin bearing and sometimes it's difficult to pin down. You don't mention in your question if the LR code occurs every load or once a week.

More information on when the error is occurring would be helpful resolving this problem. Try running a rinse and spin cycle empty and see if the washer completes the cycle.

The 2nd image contains the information on how to enter and run a diagnostic cycle which may help pin the source of the problem down. This test completes all functions of the washer is a short time. It will fill, tumble, drain and spin all is a few minutes. At the end of a successful test cycle a PA should display which means "Passed" and is what you want to see.

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The LR code means "locked rotor" which is just a way of saying the control is not seeing the motor turning. Usually when the LR code is displayed the motor has stopped turning for some reason. By definition the LR code means the control has tried to turn the motor but was unable to. The error code can be caused by to large of load, to much soap/suds in the water or a problem with the spin bearing. The cause of the LR message can be little problem like suds or a major problem like the spin bearing and sometimes it's difficult to pin down. could also possibly be the Water Inlet Valve w/Thermistor #22003834 needs to be replaced due to having Well Water with lots of sand, in the water it is not closing the valve properly allowing water to continue filling the tub, causing it to read the load being too heavy and also leaking out the front door

Tom,

The LR error code can be a tough one to troubleshoot but I'll see what if any help I can be.

The LR code stands for Locked Rotor.
If you Power Cycle the 120VAC to the machine will the error code clear?
What cycle was the machine in when you took the error code wash, spin?
If you remove the front panel and with the 120VAC power cord removed from the service outlet can you rotate the Clutch Pulley CCW (Spin direction) or CW (wash/agitate) direction.
Sounds like you have the FAV6800A/FAV9800A Service Manual.
Let’s see if the drive system is free and not locked up…………Rich

hope this helps ya http://fixitnow.com/wp/2009/03/11/maytag-neptune-front-loading-washer-motor-wont-spin-and-lr-error-code/

The LR error on your non-spinning Maytag Neptune is usually, though not always, accompanied either by a burn spot or a blown fuse on the Motor Control Board.

Maytag upgraded the motor and motor control board because this problem was so prevalent. Big rash of these a few years back... and insludes replacement instructions with the kit.


The LR code means "locked rotor" - the control is not seeing the motor turning.

The image below contains the wiring diagram for this washer as you requested but there are some other things to consider.

Usually when the LR code is displayed the motor has stopped turning for some reason.
By definition the LR code means the control has tried to turn the motor but was unable to.

The error code can be caused by to large of load, to much soap/suds in the water or a problem with the spin bearing.
The cause of the LR message can be little problem like suds or a major problem like the spin bearing and sometimes it's difficult to pin down.
You don't mention in your question if the LR code occurs every load or once a week.

Try running a rinse and spin cycle empty and see if the washer completes the cycle.

The 2nd image contains the information on how to enter and run a diagnostic cycle which may help pin the source of the problem down.
This test completes all functions of the washer is a short time. It will fill, tumble, drain and spin all is a few minutes.
At the end of a successful test cycle a PA should display which means "Passed" and is what you want to see.


Image 1: http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwrrqkkqkstsftxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkgbffwfww/1/1303472/5961857/image53872img-or.gif
Image 2:http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwtrsgdwsqtqsqxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkktggsfsw/1/1303472/5961857/image53908img-or.gif


From another source...

"Installing replacement motor, motor control harness, and motor control circut board.

Pretty easy install. On a scale of 1 to 10 I'd call it a 3.5.

If you can use a screwdriver, a wrench, and have played with legos before, you can probably do this job.

It took me about 3 hours to do, but this was with inferior tools, and two smoke breaks included.

Minimum tool requirements: Adjustable-head cresent wrench (8 or smaller handle), phillips head screwdriver, utility knife.

Recommended tool equirements: Small ratchet with socket set, ratcheting screwdriver with phillips head and small socket attachments, brew.

The instructions are pretty clear.
Once you pull the front panel off, there are two braces at 45 degree angles on the lower corners of the washer.
The instructions don't ask you to, but I would remove the brace on the left to make life easier.
This gives your arm more room to work and makes it easier to pull the motor out the front.

They ask you to remove the wiring harness from the motor first and then pull the harness out with the control board.
My wrench was too big to get to the bolt to remove the harness from the motor.
All I did was cut the harness - since they supply a new one - then pull out the control board, then pull out the motor.
As far as getting the pulley off, slip it on and off at the large wheel, this is much easier than taking it off at the small motor drive shaft.
The only other thing of note is to make sure you look at the diagram for the conectors a few times before you snap it together.
There are a few ways you could hook it up wrong so pay attention. There should be no loose ends when you finish.
Also, I couldn't get the flange back on on the rear acess panel when closing it up, but it doesnt seem to serve muc purpose besides asthetics, so I tossed it.

The $200 for the parts and shipping was well worth it. I saved about $150-250 to do it myself...."





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You need a new transmition

HI, the actual Motor control board that is located inside the unit is malfunctioning. this is the reason for the (lr) code you are receiving at this point. replacing the MCB, will fix this non spin issue.

The code LR stands for locked rotor you will need a new motor and motor control kit pretty expensive and only covered under you warrenty for a year!

rapoyner The "LR" error code means "locked rotor". It appears on the display after the machine has repeatedly tried to turn the motor. The cause of the problem could be the motor itself, the motor control board, the main control board or the wiring. If your washer is less then five years old most likely the parts are still under Maytag warranty. It has very sophisticated design and I wood recommend to call the Maytag authorized repair man even if the warranty is already expired. Gendos