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Dryer model #8565582 does not heat. What is the part number of the heater unit, with limit control attached, that I need to replavce the heater unit? Thank you

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Posted on Sep 12, 2010


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Electric dryer will not heat on any setting

Hello, when a dryer does not heat one of the first things that you would do is check the outlet to assure that you do have 110 on each side of the outlet going into the unit. If you do then you now know the dryer has the proper amount of electricity going to the unit. If you only had 110 on one side then the dryer would not heat. In order to test the following parts you will need a multimeter and unplug the dryer. There are a couple of easy to test parts that you will need to perform a continuity test on or an ohms test to assure that these parts are working properly. After you provide the make and the model number I will instruct you if you need on how to take apart your dryer and depending on which dryer you have and that you do have a multimeter I will also be instructing you on how to test each part. NOTE BEFORE TESTING ANY PARTS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER!! The parts that you would be testing are the hi limit and low limit thermistor as well as the heater and before you test each of these you have to remove one of the wires attaching to one of the sides of each part. In some units such as whirlpool, kenmore, maytag, roper have a run thermistor that when they short stops the heater from working. I will await your reply as to the model number and make and if you have access to a multimeter.
Thank you

Oct 11, 2011 | Dryers

2 Answers

Stackable Kenmore model 110.98752. Dryer drum turns but no heat. Vent does not appear plugged since air does flow through to outlet.

With your volt ohm meter (VOM) check for 220 volts at the terminal block the cord attaches to.
If 220 is present, unplug the dryer and remove the rear panel.
With meter set to continuity check the thermostats and fuses on the heater as well as the heater coil. Remember to unplug the wires to each component to check them correctly.
You should read 120 volts from black to white and red to white for a complete circuit.

Look closely at the wires at the terminal for a burned wire.
No burned wire, open the wall outlet and inspect the wires and the female connections.

Read voltage at the wall connection for 220 volts and 120 volts from hot to neutral on both legs.
With the power disconnected you should take at least one wire off each thermostat and limit just to be sure you don't somehow get a false read.
If it runs at all and the heating element is OK then you most likely need a limit kit.
You dryer has a series of safetys. If the control thermostat fails, the filter housing gets blocked with lint, or the vent gets stopped up the heat could cause a fire. The bottom cannister thermostat limit is the lowest temp one 250F, it should shut down first if it fails then the limit mounted at the top of the cannister is set to Blow at 300F When it blows that is an indication of an external vent blockage. If the problem is from within the dryer then the fuse mounted on the blower housing will blow an the dryer won't run. The fuse is rated at 350F and is tied into the door switch. That is why the wires are smaller. They don't carry the heat load. If the duct fuse blows it is the same as if you opened the door. The dryer simply quits running.

Jul 16, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

3 Answers

My 80 series electric kenmore dyer runs but no heat

MY dryer has no heat
** UNPLUG a dryer before attempting ANY repairs. Lethal!
A dryer heater is controlled by the timer, a thermostat and a high-heat safety switch. The thermostat and safety switch are mounted on the housing around the heater.
Most likely - If the heater is blown, a visual inspection inside the heater housing will see a loose heater wire.
Next likely - Thermostat problems occur. I replace the thermostat and high-heat safety if either are suspect. Cheap, easy fix.9df7975.jpg
Least likely - Controller failure. This can be expensive ($80 - $400) so consider if you want to spend the money. A controller is actually fairly easy to change. Buy a new knob as you are likely to break it without experience and special tools.

Apr 17, 2010 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Not heating

If the model number is correct, follow these steps:

1. UNPLUG the appliance. Dangerous voltage is still present inside the unit even while shut off.

2. Remove the lower toe panel under the door. Insert a putty knife in the top seam where the panel meets the dryer front. About two inches in form each side is a retaining clip that must be depressed. Once each clip is released, the panel opens from the top and can be removed.

3. The heating element is located on the right hand side inside the heater box. Disconnect the component leads on the left hand side of the heater box and label them. Then, remove the mounting screw on the heater box bracket and the whole unit will slide out. Here's an illustration:

NOTE: You may have to remove the dryer chute where the lint trap is for better access. Just remove the lint screen and the screws holding the chute in place.

If your dryer does not look like this, your heating components are in the back of the dryer. Please, include an updated model number.

Now, have you confirmed the heating element bad? A no heat problem does not always mean the problem is the heating element. Your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse

The heating element will be located inside the heater box. The Hi-limit Thermostat and Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) are the two components that are mounted on the outside of the heater box on the left hand side. The TCO is the component furthest from the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat is located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The Thermal Fuse and Internal Bias Thermostat are the two components mounted on the blower fan housing. The Thermal Fuse is the smalll plastic component with two wires attached to it, while the Internal Bias thermostat has four wires.

For clarification, you can refer to the following websites to assist you in locating and properly identifying the components of your dryer:

All these sites should have helpful exploded view parts illustrations.

If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer no heat problem, the following links can also give you some guidance:

The MOST common causes of heat related problems:

1. Blown Thermal Cut-Out.

2. Missing 1/2 your input voltage at the wall receptacle (the dryer will still run with half the voltage missing, but won't heat - double check your source voltage at the receptacle and/or your circuit breakers.
3. Bad power cord, causing 1/2 the input voltage to be missing.

4. Blown heating element.

Read through all the information provided and let me know if you have any questions, or need further assistance. Please include your MODEL NUMBER if different from the one you posted this question under when posting questions. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: Take all resistance readings with the dryer UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (meaning disconnect any wire leads to ensure the accuracy of your readings).

Before assuming you have an INTERNAL problem with your dryer, make sure you are getting the proper voltage from your wall receptacle and terminal block. This can save you from unnecessary disassembly of the appliance.

Apr 16, 2010 | Whirlpool GEQ9800P Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer runs but wont heat

There are 2 possibilities for this problem.
1. The limit switch is out. The limit switch is located on the heating element on the back of the dryer. This is a small button type part. it will have 2 prongs on it for 2 wires that slide on for power.
2. The heating element is out. This will be on the back of the dryer and depending the model it should be a long metal piece that has metal elements inside of it to heat the dryer. or it could be a large round unit. these can be tested with an om meter.

The limit switch will be the cheapest to start with on replacing.
If you need further assistance please do not hesitate to ask. I will need the make, model, and the serial number of the unit to help you further. the model and serial number can be found by opening the dryer door and looking by the hings. there should be a sticker with this information on it.

Apr 13, 2010 | Kenmore 64852 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore model:110.62974100 not heating. Tested heating element, thermal cut out, hi limit thermostat,and 220 at the outlet. All tested good. What am i over looking?

What you have not tested is the heater relay located behind the console. Disconnect power to the washer then remove the screws attaching the console rear panel to the console. The are two relays behind the console; the one with the red wires connected to it is the heater relay while the other one is the motor relay. Clean the heater relay terminals and ensure a snug fit connection then plug and start the dryer.

The relays are identical and can be swapped out; swap them out when the dryer still doesn't heat after the terminals are cleaned. Just make sure to label the wires and mark the terminals.

Replace the electronic control board, part number 3976627, if the dryer runs and doesn't heat after the relays are swapped out. Replace the heater relay if the motor doesn't run after the relay swap. The relay is part number 3405281.

Apr 10, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

Model number LER6620PQO dryer want heat up what could be the problem?

1. Hi Limit (small limit upper right hand side of this pic) the most frequent problem if dryer RUNS but no heat AND you have
checked the element and found it to be good. 2. Heater assembly. 7. Control thermostat(s). 5. Fuse(350F), if blown(open) the dryer will NOT run. 4. Heater element
(if you do not have a meter remove and inspect this heater coil for breaks).

If you need further help, reach me via phone at

Mar 09, 2010 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

How do I know which thermal unit is the one that shuts the dryer off when the clothes are dry? one's called a cycling thermostat, another is called a fixed thermostat and the third is called thermal...

Usually the Fixed Thermostat (also known as the High Limit Thermostat) and Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) are used in conjunction to regulate and protect the heating circuits.

The Cycling Thermostat (also know as the Internal Bias) controls the amount of heat required/desired to dry your clothes.

You need to remove the rear panel of the dryer to access the heating circuits on this model dryer. With the back panel removed, the heating circuits will be on the right hand side and the blower fan assembly is located on the left. The Hi-Limit Thermostat and TCO are located on the outside of the heater box with the Hi-Limit Thermostat mounted next to the heating element terminals and the TCO located at the opposite end of the heater box. The Cycling Thermostat is located on the blower fan housing next the Thermal Fuse. It will be the metallic round component, while the Termal Fuse will be a white plastic component.

For better clarification, you can view an exploded view diagram of your appliance at If you type in your model number, all the parts I've mentioned are listed under Section 3 (Bulkhead Parts). The components are listed as follows:

Item 6 - TCO/Hi-Limit Thermostat Kit (both parts should be replaced at the same time).
Item 15 - Hi-Limit Thermostat (sold separately)
Item 23 - Thermal Fuse
Item 24 - Cycling (Internal Bias) Thermostat

If you are experiencing heating problems or longer dry times, please review the following link:

Pay particular attention to the section that discusses dryer ventilation. The majority of dryer heat related problems and failures are attributed to poorly installed, clogged, or kinked dryer ventilation. If you haven't had the ducting checked in a while, now may be a good time to do so.

If you have any questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Sep 10, 2009 | Roper REX4634KQ Electric Dryer

3 Answers

Runs but no heat

i have replaced TH2 in my dle0322 about 6 times now. It never lasts more than a month. What could be causing this?

Apr 21, 2008 | LG DLE2532W Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore Dryer

If you go to, type in your model number in the Search menu, then look under the "Bulkhead" menu option, you will see an illustration of your dryer. You will need to remove the heater box cover (item #5) to get to the heating element. The element should slide out of the bottom of the heater box housing. Removing the housing from the dryer first makes it easier. Sometimes you may need a little muscle in getting the heater coil to come out.

Have you checked the thermal cut-out(TCO)/hi limit thermostat? This is item #1 in the drawing. If your dryer runs, but does not heat, this is normally the culprit. You are right to assume you could have a heating element problem, but the element tends to be more resilient. In my experience with electric dryers, the thermal cut-out tends to go bad first. It's easier to check and easier to replace as it is mounted on the outside of the heater box. Check for the following:

With the heater box STILL installed, the TCO will be a small component mounted at the top of the heater box housing. The hi-limit thermostat will be mounted at the bottom of the heater box housing next to the ceramic terminal of the heating element. With the dryer UNPLUGGED, disconnect the wires to the TCO and do a resistance reading. It should read 0 ohms if good. Do the same with the hi-limit thermostat. It should also read 0 ohms if good. Last of all perform a reading across the leads of the heating element with the wires unplugged. You should get a reading of 9 - 13 ohms if it is good. If you determine the TCO or hi-limit thermostat to be bad, it is HIGHLY recommended that you replace them BOTH at the same time. They are sold as a set (part #279769). Failure to replace both components could result in part failure. The part number for the heating element is 4391960. I hope this helps you.

Mar 17, 2008 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

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