Question about Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If the washer fills but does not agitate or spin, this is usually a symptom of a bad lid switch. The switch will either be located on the right hand side of the washer tub opening, or in the rear on the left hand side under the console. If you have a right hand model, examine the lid and make sure the plunger that activates the switch when it is closed is still intact. The plunger is a plastic piece that is physically mounted on the lid. Sometimes they break off. If the plunger is intact, try taking a small object (like a screwdriver or popsicle stick and push down on the lid switch contact while the lid is open and the timer knob started. You should hear a distinctive "click" when you push on the switch and the washer will agitate. Sometimes the switch can become loose and no longer make good contact. If this is the case, simply tighten the two mounting screws on the tub opening. If the switch relay is not clicking you may need to replace it. The part runs about $35.
If you have the left hand style switch that is enclosed under the console, the contacts are closed by a small metal bar on the back of the lid. Sometimes this bar becomes bent or loose. Open and close the lid and listen for a distinctive "click". If you don't hear anything, you may need to adjust the metal bar, or replace the switch. This style of switch tends to cost a bit more.
If you can provide me with your model number (located under the wash lid along the tub opening), I can research the part number for you and let you know where you can get it and give you step-by-step instructions on how to replace it. This is a simple repair job that the average consumer can perform with simple instructions and a few household tools. First, determine if this is the cause of your problem. Post back with comments and let me know if this helps you.
Posted on Nov 24, 2007
Before you do anything else...have you fully checked the pump system...thats starting at the pump to the termination of the drain hose. Coins and objects can cause partcial blockage which can cause the symptoms you described. Let me know how you get on.
Posted on Jan 03, 2008
Yes, you have a direct drive coupling problem. Use this video to replace your part.
Posted on Aug 13, 2009
Testimonial: "Thank You! The diagnosis confirmation and repair video helped. There were some differences between my Washer and the repair video, but figured it out"
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
Enter your model number (110.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission. It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts. Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.
The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.
The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.
If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning. It will also make a noise as the plastic prongs hit each other.
See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.
If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.
Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.
Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.
Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.
Replace the motor mounting plate.
Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.
Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.
Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.
Posted on Oct 18, 2009
Testimonial: "I now have a place to start. I had not a clue where to begin. Thank you"
its possible the ears on the top of the drive tube have worn alowing the basket drive block to slip and not turn the clothes basket with authority, or the basket drive block has just worn from overloading and needs replacing.. is easy to verify by looking..
best of luck,
Posted on Oct 25, 2009
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