Question about Bertazzoni X30 4 GGV X Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

When trying to light my oven, it take more than 5 times igniting it for the oven to work, I do keep the door open and have to watch to see if the flame comes on. Sometimes the flame comes on, but doesn't always stay on. Also, I am having trouble with the oven staying lit, I will be cooking something then realise after half hour or so, that the oven has turned off on its own. This is happening with both baking or broiling. I have tried to hold the igniter for more than 20 secs and still have trouble lighting it. I am getting very discouraged with this, and frustrated. Is there any way to figure out why the oven will not light?

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  • Irene Kenny-Gundersen
    Irene Kenny-Gundersen Sep 07, 2010

    The stove is about 3 months old. So it is possible the ignitor might be a bad one.

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  • Bertazzoni Master
  • 43,501 Answers

Hi,

Just because it glows that does not mean it is not bad...
The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating

Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter


heatman101

Posted on Sep 07, 2010

  • D. Floyd Kolb
    D. Floyd Kolb Sep 07, 2010

    Yes... I have seen them be bad right out of the box.... the gas valve works on amp draw and if they don't pull enough they won't work the gas valve....


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Reset ecu on Nissan hardbody 2006 model.stoped it at home,now wont start.maybe for second or two.Nats light not working on dash. keys still opening doors,enjin turning,does not start.enjin check light


Give this a try.....Timing is not as critical with this method...no stop watch needed. Just count in your head...one-one thousand, two-one thounsand, etc, or usestop watch. The most critical step is step #3....wait 10 sec, instead of 7.



1. Ignition "ON", count to 3.

2. Depress/Release pedal 5 times...hard and fast.

3. Count to 10 (not 7!) and fully depress pedal

4. Count to 12 (SES should be blinking), release pedal

5. Count to 10, depress pedal

6. Count to 10, release pedal.

7. Turn off ignition, then 81377951893%26mt_id%3D570%26mpre%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.com%252Fitm%252Flike%252F181377951893%26mid%3D446528%26sdc_id%3D%7Bsdc_id%7D&DealName=12v%20Electric%20Push%20To%20Start%20Engine%20Ignition%20Button%20With%20Red%20Led%20Light%20Up&MerchantID=446528&HasLink=yes&category=0&AR=-1&NG=1&GR=1&ND=1&PN=1&RR=-1&ST=&MN=msnFeed&FPT=SDCF&NDS=1&NMS=1&NDP=1&MRS=&PD=0&brnId=2455&lnkId=8070676&Issdt=150102050536&IsFtr=0&IsSmart=0&dlprc=19.99&SKU=181377951893">start engine. Done!

Jan 02, 2015 | Nissan Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Reset passlock code


Is your Impala a 2000, 2001, or 2002? This seems to be a common problem in those model years...much like its predecessor the GM VATS (Vehicle Anti-Theft System). While the VATS had a permanent (albeit unapproved) solution, no suck workaround appears to be available for the Passlock system. Some websites offer a correction "module" that looks to be a hit-or-miss solution. I did find the following procedure on a forum, and it seems to be reliable. Here goes:
If your car has been sitting while you were at work or home or in the store, and you are coming out to leave, follow steps 1-6.

If you just had the SECURITY SYSTEM lock you out of the ignition system, you will have to wait the 10 minutes for it to reset and allow the ignition control module to interact with the system. Once the 10 minutes have passed from the ACTIVE SECURITY STATUS, follow steps 1-6. Do not try to shortcut this as it wont work.

If it is raining, you can close your door, just not all the way. Close it all the way and open the door latch without pushing the door open. This will keep you dry.

+++++STEPS+++++ 1.) OPEN YOUR DRIVERS DOOR AND SIT DOWN. 2.) PLACE KEY IN IGNITION, WAIT FOR CHIME. (3 seconds is what I usually wait) 3.) TURN IGNITION 1 CLICK RIGHT (TO THE ACC POSITION) AND STOP! Do not continue to ON and START yet. WAIT ATLEAST 5 SECONDS 4.) AFTER 5 seconds has passed, TURN KEY TO ON and STOP, DO NOT CONTINUE TO START YET! 5.) WAIT AND WATCH. With your drivers door open, here is what you will see and hear = Your notification will signal DOOR ADJAR, then the BATTERY light, then the SECURITY light, during which you will hear the chime sound as if you just started the car. 6.) AFTER YOU SEE THE SECURITY light switch back to DOOR ADJAR or Battery, and after the CHIME has stopped, you can turn the key to start and voila!

It has worked every time for me and 5 of my friends. This whole process takes about 20-30 seconds, but it sure as hell beats 30 minutes, as GM refuses to compensate my time lost to their vehicle\'s design flaws.

RECAP: 1.) Open driver door, sit down 2.) Insert key in ignition, wait for chime 3.) Once chime starts wait 3 seconds 4.) Turn key to ACC position WAIT atleast 5 seconds 5.) After 5 seconds turn key to the ON postion and wait for the security light to switch back to Battery or DOOR adjar, and the chime to stop (Do not try to START if the chime is still sounding) 6.) Once chime stops and Security light has passed, You may now complete the turn to START and it will start.

Note: This is not a permanent workaround, but it will buy you some time, I can almost guarantee it will work for most if not all people, almost all the time.



Oct 11, 2013 | Chevrolet Impala Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

F90 code on Fridgidaire range/oven


F90 Maximum oven door unlock time exceeded.
F91 Maximum oven door unlock attempts exceeded.
F92 Maximum oven door open time exceeded.
F93 Maximum oven door lock time exceeded.
F94 Maximum oven door lock attempts exceeded.


1. (F90, 91, 92, 93 & 94) Check the wiring between EOC & Lock Motor Micro Switch.

2. (F90, 91, 92, 93 & 94) Replace the Motor Door Latch assembly if necessary.

3. (F90, 91, 92, 93 & 94) Check for binding of the Latch Cam, Lock Motor Rod & Lock Motor Cam.

4. (F90, 91, 92, 93 & 94) Check to see if Lock Motor Coil is open. If open, replace Lock Motor Assembly.

5. (F90, 91, 92, 93 & 94) Lock Motor continuously runs - if Micro Switch is open, replace Lock Motor Assembly.

6. (F92, 93 & 94) Check oven door Light Switch - if open, replace Switch.

7. If all situations above do not solve problem, replace EOC.


F90 is a door lock code, Try this...
unplug the range.
wait 1 minute.
turn the range back on,
then while holding in on the oven door.
start another self clean.
wait 2 minutes.
then cancel the self clean.

do not release the door until the door lock light goes out.


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Jan 04, 2010 | Frigidaire FEF352 Electric Kitchen Range

1 Answer

My self cleaning oven door will not open, and keeps beeping and


The F9 code indicates there is a problem with the door lock.

Try disconnecting the power to the range for 10 seconds and reconnecting. Open the oven door and hold the door switch plunger in while you try these things. Put the control into clean for 5 minutes then cancel clean. You must hold the door switch plunger in for the 5 minutes.

Try canceling the clean cycle without putting the control into clean.



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Apr 19, 2009 | Frigidaire 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...

2 Answers

Oven door blows open during lighting sequence


Hi CL,

This is a common complaint and, luckily has a simple solution. I'll start with the solution and (if you're interested in the "why" of it) conclude with the cause.

First (solution)... your oven igniter has failed.

Second (cause)... Your oven utilizes a "glow" type igniter. In order for it to glow, electricity is applied and the current flowing through it causes it to get very, very hot. This electrical current is monitored by a device called a safety valve. This valve is programmed to open up main gas flow to the burner manifold after the igniter "flows" 2.6 to 3.2 amps.

Igniters are tricky little guys. Unlike a light bulb (which is either good or it's bad) igniters get "weak". So what happens is the igniter gets to 2.5, then to 2.59 then to 2.62, then back to 2.5 amps. It goes up and down. But the 2.62 amp "flow" was enough to open main gas, but not enough to ignite it. So there it goes... up and down. All the while the main gas is opening and closing, but not being ignited. This gas accumulates. Then finally, the igniter reaches it's ignition temperature.

That's when you get the explosion. The "whoosh".

It's not that difficult to replace the igniter. Yours is a part #WB2X9998 and can be purchased at a local appliance parts retailer or ordered online.

PULL THE OVEN OUT SLIGHTLY, REACH BEHIND IT AND UNPLUG IT!!!

Tools required:
1.) 1/4" socket or nut driver
2.) Flat or Phillips screwdriver
3.) Pliers
4.) Wire cutters
5.) Wire strippers

Remove the racks and then remove the "floor" panel of the oven. Then remove the diverter panel/burner baffle. Basically, your goal here is to disassemble the bottom of the oven. You may need to pull the lower drawer out.

After you have gained access to the igniter...you'll see that it's attached to the main manifold with two 1/4" screws (take note of its' position and how it's mounted to the manifold, the new one has to be mounted exactly the same). Word to the wise, here... use a little bit of liquid dish soap on the threads BEFORE trying to un-screw these. This will lubricate the threads and keep them from stripping. If you don't heed this warning and they strip? You'll have to grind them off in order to get the igniter removed.

Wire cutter time... snip the 2 white wires about 3" from the base of the old igniter. Wire stripper time... strip those 2 wires about a 1/2".

Now the old igniter is out. Pull out your new igniter. Cut any extraneous stuff off the END of the wires then strip them about a 1/2". Now mount the new igniter to the manifold (where the old one came from). Now take one wire (doesn't matter which one) from the new igniter and twist it to one of the wires you cut and stripped while removing the old igniter. Then use one of the ceramic wire nuts (included with your new igniter) and twist it on the exposed wires clock wise. Make sure there is NO WIRE EXPOSED after doing this. If there is, remove the wire nut and cut a small amount of you twisted wire pair off.

ALL OF THE EXPOSED WIRE SHALL BE INSIDE THE WIRE NUTS.

Do the same thing for the other wire. Now tuck all of the extra wire away. At this point, you're ready to test your handywork! Set it to bake and watch her light up (without the explosion tis time)!

All that's left to do now is rebuild the lower oven, grab a coolada and get some cookie dough. I'll be over at 6:00 for snacks :-)

SG

Apr 02, 2009 | General Electric PGS968SEMSS Gas Range

1 Answer

Wirlpool gs475lems Oven will fail to light and keep temp.


I HAVE A 2 MONTH OLD GAS RANGE AND IT APPEARS ED-F3 AND THE OVEN DOOR IS LOCKED HOW DO I GET IT TO UNLOCK

Feb 15, 2009 | Whirlpool GS475LEKS Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Self-cleaning error message f90


F90 Maximum oven door unlock time exceeded.
F91 Maximum oven door unlock attempts exceeded.
F92 Maximum oven door open time exceeded.
F93 Maximum oven door lock time exceeded.
F94 Maximum oven door lock attempts exceeded.


1. (F90, 91, 92, 93 & 94) Check the wiring between EOC & Lock Motor Micro Switch.

2. (F90, 91, 92, 93 & 94) Replace the Motor Door Latch assembly if necessary.

3. (F90, 91, 92, 93 & 94) Check for binding of the Latch Cam, Lock Motor Rod & Lock Motor Cam.

4. (F90, 91, 92, 93 & 94) Check to see if Lock Motor Coil is open. If open, replace Lock Motor Assembly.

5. (F90, 91, 92, 93 & 94) Lock Motor continuously runs - if Micro Switch is open, replace Lock Motor Assembly.

6. (F92, 93 & 94) Check oven door Light Switch - if open, replace Switch.

7. If all situations above do not solve problem, replace EOC.


F90 is a door lock code, Try this...
unplug the range.
wait 1 minute.
turn the range back on,
then while holding in on the oven door.
start another self clean.
wait 2 minutes.
then cancel the self clean.

do not release the door until the door lock light goes out.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Dec 30, 2008 | Kenmore 79383 Dual Fuel (Electric and Gas)...

1 Answer

My oven - St George UGM-4 model - won't light. I don't know how old the oven is. There have been problems for a while, with the flame going out after about 5 minutes when it's first lit (it makes a...


this one is hands on fix,many times the spark ignition the one that makes the clicking noise is clicking on a different position,so you most look inside the oven to see the spark, you can see it better at night or when is dark to see the spark, that spark is right at the tip of the oven pilot, make sure you see the spark lighting the pilot.as long as the pilot does not ignite.the clicking sounds continues making the noise. if the pilot lights the noise will stop, if the oven burner does not light after pilot is being for about 1 minute and a half the safety valve needs replacing

Dec 06, 2008 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Self Cleaning


F90 Maximum oven door unlock time exceeded.
F91 Maximum oven door unlock attempts exceeded.
F92 Maximum oven door open time exceeded.
F93 Maximum oven door lock time exceeded.
F94 Maximum oven door lock attempts exceeded.


1. (F90, 91, 92, 93 & 94) Check the wiring between EOC & Lock Motor Micro Switch.

2. (F90, 91, 92, 93 & 94) Replace the Motor Door Latch assembly if necessary.

3. (F90, 91, 92, 93 & 94) Check for binding of the Latch Cam, Lock Motor Rod & Lock Motor Cam.

4. (F90, 91, 92, 93 & 94) Check to see if Lock Motor Coil is open. If open, replace Lock Motor Assembly.

5. (F90, 91, 92, 93 & 94) Lock Motor continuously runs - if Micro Switch is open, replace Lock Motor Assembly.

6. (F92, 93 & 94) Check oven door Light Switch - if open, replace Switch.

7. If all situations above do not solve problem, replace EOC.


F90 is a door lock code, Try this...
unplug the range.
wait 1 minute.
turn the range back on,
then while holding in on the oven door.
start another self clean.
wait 2 minutes.
then cancel the self clean.

do not release the door until the door lock light goes out.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Mar 03, 2008 | Kenmore 94220 / 94221 / 94222 / 94224 /...

1 Answer

Whirlpool SF365pegq


The way the ignition system in most of today's ovens work is like this:

1. Set the oven or broiler temperature.
2. The igniter begins to glow.
3. Once the igniter reaches a certain current potential, the gas safety valve opens.
4. Gas is introduced into the manifold and you have ignition.
5. NOTE: It can take roughly 30 - 90 seconds from the time you set your oven temp to the time it takes for the gas to ignite.


NOTE: This is a designed safety feature of the oven to prevent free flowing gas from accumulating in your home without ignition. That's why you typically don't hear any gas flowing when you have an igniter problem. You might think you have a gas problem when actually you have an ignition problem.

TWO BASIC IGNITER TYPES:

Carborundum (Cylindrical in shape) - needs to produce 2.5 to 3.0 amps for the gas safety valve to work.
Norton (Rectangular in shape) - needs to produce 3.2 to 3.7 amps for the gas safety valve to work.

NOTE: There is a UNIVERSAL FLAT BAR igniter on the market as well, that can be used as a substitute if the igniter type that came with your range is not available.

An easy way to determine if you may have an igniter problem is to check BOTH your oven features. If the oven doesn't light, check the broiler and vice versa. Since both the BROIL manifold and BAKE manifold are fed from the same gas source, but have separate igniters, it's an easy assumption to make that the igniter may be bad, if one or the other doesn't light.

The igniter typically goes bad in one of two ways, the igniter either stops glowing completely, or becomes weak over time and doesn't produce enough current to open the gas safety valve (in this case the igniter will still glow but the oven still won't light). Longer ignition times can be another symptom of an igniter possibly going bad.

For this solution, however, we're going to assume you have a bad igniter and need to replace it. Follows these steps:

NOTE: The same method applies to both the broiler and bake manifold.

1. UNPLUG the range and turn the gas off if you have a local gas cut-out valve (it is recommended that you do).
2. Open oven door and remove (if possible). Refer to your owner's manual to see if there are instructions on how to remove the oven door. Some have spring-loaded locking hinges, while others just lift out. If you cannot figure out how to remove the oven door, use care not to lean on the door or put too much weight on it. A common complaint following any kind of oven maintenance is that the oven door doesn't shut correctly any longer. This is usually caused by bending the hinges or springs coming loose.
3. Remove the oven racks, and remove the oven pan. (There are usually two screws either in the back or front of the oven holding the pan in place).
4. Remove the Flame Spreader. This is a metal plate on top of the manifold.
5. The igniter will be mounted directly to the gas manifold. Follow the wires that lead to igniter. It will either be plugged into a connector, or be connected together with ceramic wire lugs. Your replacement igniter should come with extra ceramic wire lugs. In the event the plug does not match the one on your range, cut the wires and connect using the ceramic wire lugs. DO NOT use standard wire lugs, they are not heat resistant and will melt.
6. Unplug the old igniter and remove the mounting screw holding it to the gas manifold.
7. Install new igniter on gas manifold using care not to handle the element on the igniter with your hands. The oil from your hands can cause damage and/or premature failure. The igniter is also considered FRAGILE.
8. Reconnect the wires using the recommendations mentioned in Step 5.
9. Plug in the range, turn the gas valve back on and do a visual test by setting the oven temperature to the desired range. Allow 30 - 90 seconds for the igniter to light the gas. Turn oven off and allow sufficient time to cool. If the oven has only been lit for a minute or so, the cool down period will be brief.
10. Reinstall the flame spreader, oven pan, and racks. Reinstall door if necessary.


Most igniters cost around $50. Prices will vary with models.

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Feb 22, 2008 | Whirlpool SF369 Gas Kitchen Range

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