Question about Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Won't spin/agitate and change cycles

We have a Kenmore Elite, heavy duty, top load, quiet pak III. It's about 7 years old. I was washing some clothes and I went to check after about 20 minutes and it was off. I opened the lid and the clothes were still sitting in there with water. I could tell it got as far as the rinse cycle because the softner had already been dispensed and was in the water with the clothes. But the dial was on OFF. I tried to pull the knob and restart it (several times) but it just went "click" and kind of a buzzing sound like it was trying to do something. The water won't drain and it doesn't spin or agitate. Also when we change the load size it starts adding more water. But that is the only thing it can do right now. What could be wrong?

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  • Jannira May 13, 2008

    jsrock516, thank you for your quick reply and help. We will try this when we get home from work and i will get back to you on that model number. Again thank you!

    Oh! If this is the case, do we have buy a replacement switch? Where can we get one?

  • Jannira May 13, 2008

    What does the model number look like? Does it have letters and numbers because what I found is sm 9711034. Would this be it?

  • Jannira May 13, 2008

    Found it!!

  • Model# 11022982100
  • Jannira May 15, 2008

    We found the part and it doesn't seem to be the problem. Because when we push the button, it still just clicks and doesn't do anything else. Is it possible that it's the sensor underneath the switch?

  • kendraporter Jan 02, 2009

    it stop spining the clothes

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    • 5,911 Answers

    If your washer fills and does not agitate or spin, it could be a simple lid switch problem. That's also probably the reason why it won't drain, either. Switching load sizes activates the pressure switch, which controls the level of the water in the tub (this is normal).

    Locate the lid switch. It should be located on the right-hand side of the tub rim. There's a small hole in the rim where a small peg (called a lid strike) inserts from the washer lid to activate the switch. Check to see if the lid strike is not broken off. If the lid strike is still attached, open and close the lid to see if you can hear the switch "clicking". If no clicking noise is heard, take a small screwdriver and push it down through the opening to see if you can activate the switch (leave the timer knob pulled out when you do this to see if the washer starts). Double check the mounting screws to ensure they are tight. Sometimes the screws will come loose and the switch will not make contact with the lid strike.

    Now some washers have the lid switch located on the left-hand side UNDER the washer rim by the lid hinge. This type of switch is activated by a rod on the lid hinge and fits into an opening in switch. Usually, this type of switch only requires an adjustment of the rod to correct any problems.

    Please post back with your model number, so I can make sure what type of switch you have.

    If you diagnose the problem and need to replace the lid switch, just click on the link below for complete step-by-step instructions.

    I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you have further questions.

    PS You do not have to drain the washer to replace the switch. If you need to drain it, however, post back and I can tell you how to bypass the lid switch to get the washer running to drain.

    Posted on May 13, 2008

    • 2 more comments 
    • Jeff Rockwell
      Jeff Rockwell May 13, 2008

      A replacement switch can be found at Just type in your model number in the "Search by Model Number" window. I believe the lid switch can be found under the "Top and Cabinet Parts" heading. Good luck and let me know if you have trouble finding parts, or need further guidance on troubleshooting.

    • Jeff Rockwell
      Jeff Rockwell May 14, 2008


      The lid switch on this washer is on the right-hand side of the wash tub opening along the rim. There is a small hole where the lid strike presses the switch contacts when the lid is closed. If you determine the switch to be bad and need a replacement, go to The part is located under the "Top anbd Cabinet" heading as item number 11 (part #8054980). With shipping and handling the part would cost you a little over $20. If you don't want to wait on shipping, click on the part number and there is a link on the following page that enables you to search by your zip code to see if a local store has the part in stock. I hope this helps you. Let me know if you're having trouble diagnosing the problem.

    • Jeff Rockwell
      Jeff Rockwell May 15, 2008

      There is no sensor on the lid switch. It's a simple contact switch. Did you pull the timer knob out when you pushed the contacts down on the switch? These switches can often still click like they are working, but the contacts still not make a good connection. Have you physically inspected the switch under the washer rim? It's a small grey in color switch with a plastic contact arm. Sometimes the plastic separates and the switch comes apart.

    • Jeff Rockwell
      Jeff Rockwell May 15, 2008

      If you are convinced, the lid switch is not the problem, the main drive motor, or the switch that drives it, are the other components that can cause the symptoms you are describing. Double check the lid switch one more time and let me know what you decide. The main drive motor costs about $140 (which includes the switch). The switch costs about $65 just by itself. The "click" you hear sounds like the switch might be engaging, but the motor may be seized (the "buzzing"). That's why I want you to be thorough. They are easy components to replace, yourself. But, as you can see, they cost a bit more.



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