Question about Belling FarmHouse 931 Gas Kitchen Range
Just because it glows that does not mean it is not bad...
The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...
Oven not Working or Oven not Heating
Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter
Posted on Sep 07, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
you need to check the amp draw on the ignitor.. if it is between 3.5 -5.2 amps your gas valve is bad..if not the ignitor is bad..YES theignitor can glow and still be bad due to lack of amp draw to open the valve..check that and let me know
Posted on Feb 22, 2008
Warning! To avoid personal injury or even death, always disconnect your appliance from its power source--that is, unplug it or break the connection at the circuit breaker or fuse box--before you do any troubleshooting or repair work on your appliance. Also, because some components may have sharp edges, use caution while working on your appliance.
Below is a link to common solutions that will help you with parts and diagnostic procedures that are specifically tuned to your manufacturers data plate information.
It provides exploded view imagery, belt routing diagrams, parts imagery and function, parts ordering and shipping information, error code details, just about anything you need to get your appliance up and running again. Once you access the site you will be able to navigate numerous pages of information on your product. You will need to enter your model number to access your product information.
Tip: Always provide the complete information provided on the manufacturers product information data tag, located on the unit, and not in the user’s manual. This will help you acquire a more accurate and expeditious response to your complaint. I will post the most common solutions to your complaint. For more specific information please refer to the tip and/or link provided. Here are some things to look for:
If your oven won't bake, check these:
Bake igniter Usually when an oven won't bake, it's because the bake igniter is weak or burned out. The igniter is a small, round or rectangular device, that's about 1 inch by 4 to 8 inches. It's near the burner itself.
The burner is the tube-type device the gas flows through before it's ignited. It has many small holes on the sides to let the gas, when ignited, form a long, low flame. If the igniter is weak, if it glows red but doesn't get hot enough, or if it's burned out, the gas doesn't flow to the burner and the burner won't ignite. If this is the problem, you may need to replace either the igniter or the gas safety valve. Usually the igniter is to blame.
Other causes Other reasons that your oven may not bake are:
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Dave E. (Illeagle)
"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"
Posted on Jul 05, 2008
SOURCE: Rangemaster 110
i have had the same problem with rangemaster 110, r/h solinoid,i purchased a replacement from an authorized dealer, same fault within 6 months, i had to purchase a replacement so they could check the first replacement was faulty before they refund my money. now the second one has failed. so we have decided to use it until the l/h oven gives up (hopefully sooner than later) then we will be buying another double oven, but it will not be rangemaster.
Posted on Oct 28, 2008
SOURCE: Oven wont light
This can be caused by a weak/inop hot surface igniter or a defective gas control valve.
One thing that you can try(be very careful doing this) is to give the gas control valve a light tap with something hard like a wrench when the oven is turned on and the igniter is glowing but the burner is not on. You will need to remove the broiler/storage drawer at the bottom of the oven. Once you pull the drawer out you should see the gas control valve at the back of the range. Try turning on the oven and lightly tapping the valve housing after the igniter is fully on. This may loosen up any debris inside the control valve housing that might be causing the problem. If the oven burner comes on then try completely turning the oven on and back of several times. And when I say completely I mean turn it on after the igniter is not glowing and burner has shut off. This works about 30% of the time. If the burner control valve sticks again after trying this procedure(burner does not come on) then it could be the control valve and/or the hot surface igniter defective. The hot surface igniter would need to be disconnected from it's harness and tested with an OHM meter. Most igniters should have a 500 to 700 OHM reading. If you get a reading that is way off then the igniter is defective and replace it. If the igniter tests good then the gas control valve is suspect and replace it. Most appliance parts retailers will test your igniter for free. When the igniter is on it should glow very brightly. If it is dim then that is a sure sign it is bad. You can also verify that the oven run-away valve is not closed. This valve will be located at the back bottom of the range at the gas regulator. There will be a tab on the regulator housing where the gas pipe goes to the oven. This tab will lift up to close gas flow to the oven. Sometimes these valves can stick causing the oven to stop working. You can try moving this tab back and forth to see if it loosens any debris in the valve. Move the valve while the oven is on and you will be able to hear the burner come on after moving the valve if that was the problem.
Remember be very careful doing any of these procedures. Good luck and have a safe holiday.
Posted on Jul 04, 2010
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