Question about Maytag MZD2766GES Side by Side Refrigerator

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I HAVE A MAYTAG MZD2766GE, PROBLEM IS THE COIL IN THE BACK OF FREEZER AREA KEEPS ICING UP SOLID AND NO COOLING TO FRIDGE OR FREEZER, FAN IS WORKING , HAPPENS ABOUT EVERY 2-3 WEEKS. IS IT THE HEATER OR DEFROST TIMER, AND IF SO WHERE IS THE TIMER LOCATED?

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  • z28rr Sep 06, 2010

    tested heater and it read 230mohm, so it appears to be ok, it also has a small device that clips to one of the freon lines, that is included with the wiring harness for the heater element. Is this some type of sensor and if so what is its purpose and could this also be a problem as it looks like power has to go through it to get to the heater? thanks...rick

  • z28rr Sep 06, 2010

    hi thanks for the advice, the sensor is reading a high ohm reading at room temp, so i guess thats where i should start. it is a complete assembly including the heater so i would assume it comes with the heating element as well.is it possible it could be both the sensor and the timer or just one? thanks..rick

  • z28rr Sep 06, 2010

    thats great! thanks for the info...Rick

  • z28rr Sep 07, 2010

    VERY HELPFUL, THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!

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  • Master
  • 6,784 Answers

HI. There are two causes here, in this situation. The most common will be a faulty defrost timer, or adaptive defrost control board. The defrost mechanism will vary form unit to unit. Most newer units will be equipped with an defrost control board. This will be located in the control housing, just above the heat shield, in the upper right had side. Older models will have a standard defrost timer mechanism. If this device fails, the evaporator heater Assembly will not receive the command to defrost the coil, on time. The easiest way to isolate the cause, will be to test the heater element. If the element is functional, the defrost timer/board, will be the culprit.

Defrost heater assembly test procedure:

The defrost heater is usually located at the back of a side by side freezer or under the floor of a top freezer. It will be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice-maker and the inside rear or bottom panel of the freezer, to access.

The panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. On some older top freezers it is necessary to remove the plastic molding to access the freezer floor. Removal of that molding can be tricky, so try not to force it, if possible. If you decide to remove it, you do so at your own risk. it will break, if forced. Warm it first with a warm towel, or hair dryer, set to low heat.

There are three primary types of defrost heater elements; exposed metal rod, metal rod covered with aluminum tape or a wire coil inside a glass tube. All three elements are tested in the same way.

The heater is connected by two wires. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Test the heating element for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. Because of the number of different elements we cannot tell what your reading should be, but we can be certain of what it shouldn't be. If the reading is zero or infinity the heating element is definitely faulty, and should be replaced.

Posted on Sep 06, 2010

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  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Sep 06, 2010

    Click here to view an exploded diagram of the unit control housing in the refrigerator compartment. You defrost control device will be labeled number 13 on the diagram provided. The heat shield will be labeled number 19 and the Control housing will be labeled number 1. If the heater passes its respective test; replace the defrost control board.

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Sep 06, 2010

    Your are correct Rick; That connected device is a sensing thermostat that works in conjunction with the control board to regulate proper heater functions. This device is integrated into the entire heater assembly. A simple resistance test or continuity test can be performed at the thermostat terminal harness to verify proper function. Separate the thermostat device connecting wire harness and preform the test as follows:




    • To test the thermostat; Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal inside the wiring harness connector that runs to the thermostat and not the heater. You should get a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, the thermostats should have a reading of zero. When the thermostat is cooled to the limit temperature, it should switch on and you should get a reading of infinity. Replace the thermostat if it fails to register as described.


  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Sep 06, 2010

    In this case, I would hold off on purchasing the control device. The heater assembly will be the culprit and not your defrost control board. The actual test results have confirmed the local damage that has affected the heater assemblies normal abilities. It is now safe to purchase the replacement heater assembly.

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Sep 06, 2010

    No problem. If you need any more help, feel free to ask..

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