1 ohm resistor, checked ok

A digital multimeter is required for testing the resistance levels of the ignition coil. The terminals of the coil are going to be marked "negative" and "positive," and these are the two points where the resistance of primary winding can be measured. Step 1: Prepare the multimeter
To check a 12 volt coil, set the multimeter to at least a 200 Ohms setting. Attach both leads of the meter to the coil-terminals with black to the negative terminal and red to the positive one.
Step 2: Test the resistance
The normal, acceptable range for a standard 12-volt car is 1.5 to 1.7 Ohms. See if the reading is within this range.
Step 3: Test the secondary coil resistance
Set the meter to 20K Ohm setting, and attach the leads to the ignition coil's center terminal. The reading for secondary-coil resistance should be 11, because if it is lower, that's the reason why sparks are not appearing

What resistor? Are you sure it isn't a thermal breaker of some sort?

Unplug the electrical connector to the resistor. There are 4 terminals on the resistor block. You test the resistor block using an electrical multi-meter, set to the Ohms scale. Using the meter's test leads, check the following:
Between terminals 2 & 3, you should have 2.3 ohms resistance.
Between terminals 3 &4 you should have 1.1 ohms resistance.
Between terminals 3 & 1 you should have 0.4 ohms resistance.
A bad resistor block will generally show infinite ohms on one or more of these tests. Look very carefully [magnifying glass] for the marks which identify the terminals on the block.

With everything that you have tested and the relay board testing okay, this sounds like the console is the problem.

Check fuses 13 and 37. Also check relay and resistor. The relay is usually in the engine compartment relay box. It should click when the blower switch is turned on. The resistor will show signs of burning if it's bad.

RESISTOR REMOVAL & INSTALLATION The blower resistor is located on the front of the blower housing.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the glove box assembly, if required.
3. Disconnect the resistor wire connector.
4. Remove the resistor attaching screws.
5. Remove the blower motor resistor.
6. Installation is the reverse of removal.
7. Install the glove box if it was removed and connect the negative battery cable.

My glow rail would come on for a very short time, then turn off (less than 1 second).
Replaced the control wire for the glow relay, with a test lead from battery to relay control terminal - relay was working fine (relay is between batteries).

Checked the engine temperature sensor (located on top of the housing where the top radiator hose attaches to the engine).
Take out and test in a pot of water (need a 19mm deep socket to remove).
At 0 deg C should be 8.6K ohms
At 20 deg C should be 3.25K ohms
At 40 deg C should be 1.5 K ohms
At 80 deg C should be 300 ohms
I replaced the temperature sensor with a 8.2K ohm resistor (engine cold).
Then tried with a 1.2K ohm resistor (engine hot).
Each time I tested the glow rail at the relay (with a multimeter) it would turn off after about 12-14 seconds, which is normal, to protect the glow plugs and battery drain (they come on again when engine is starting).

When I put the temperature sensor back in, the glow rail was working fine again - only thing I can think of is that the contact between the sensor and the plug, may have had a oxide formed and caused a high resistance or open circuit, indicating to the glow controller that the engine was hot and did not need glow activation.
So try taking the plug off the temperature sensor, and reattaching it again it might be all it needs, to clean its contacts.

I had the same problem, replace, replace, replace. Check, check and recheck. What I found was the blower motor resistor, located in the blower squirrel cage area, two prongs and a curly wire, was bad. Took the new one back, (it ohmed out okay, continuity ok, all ok!) replaced it with another, and Bingo, problem solved. Frustrating to say the least. After two relays and a blower switch, and test, test and retest. It was a faulty resistor. Made in Mexico. And no guarentee, even though new, it works. Trial and error. Even the dealer parts are Honcho en Mexico. Thanks NAFTA. You gonna make us all welfare babies.

um.. im just gona say this it seems obvious but on mine one of the leads connecting the sub to the rest of the cabinet fell off and all i had to do was reconnect it and it was fine.

did you remove one side of the resistors before checking them with the ohms meter? They have to be out of circuit to accurately check them. Also you need to be careful where you purchase the ICs as alot of places sell the chap chinese versions and they often fail within a few days. Heres a link where you can get quality ICs and resistors as well as free tech support.
http://servicemanuals.vstore.ca/

Hello

these hot spots are in power supply you can run some solder on it but it should not be causing this problem can you please take a picture of your TV while it is on and show me the picture of it plus tell me exactly what it does.

Thankyou