a 6ya Technician can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Technician (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Look at the power supply board, look for capacitors ( look like black or brown cans) that have their silver tops bulging. There is a cross on the top designed to open in a failure so the capacitor doesn't pop. Even if the top is still closed, the slightest bulge indicates a failure. Unsolder all bulging capacitors and replace with same spec. For instance, in a bad Samsung there are 4 1000mf 25v 105C rated caps that always go bad, same symptoms. The caps are about $3-4/pc in USA.
This is an indication of out-of-regulation condition in the power supply board. This was caused by leaky/dried filter electrolytic capacitor in that board. It will dropped the voltage and will disable the unit. On the first stage of symptoms, warm-up will make itself stable after powering on and off but it will get worst, times will come that the unit will not even power up at all.
Leaky electrolytic capacitor has a physical indication of fault like bulged/dome at the top and can be easily identify. See sample picture.
Dried electrolytic capacitor has no physical indication of fault, you must have a capacitor checker to determine its condition.
You may also replaced the entire power supply board if you can't troubleshoot it yourself. Click this LINK.LINK2
Hope I helped you.
Have a nice day!
Thanks for using Fixya.
Probably a power supply - if you open the back of the tv (if you have electronic experience) find the power supply look for bulged capacitors and replace them.
power supply unit problem you have bad caps (capacitors) change all the caps or at least the ones that are leaking how do you see if they bad usually they are bold on the top instead of flat. change it with a higher voltage but the same UF. if it shows 10V-1000uf you change to 16V-1000uf or if it fits a 25V-1000uf.
I had a similar problem the orange record light was on and the unit could not be turned on. I didn't want to replace the unit since all recording would be gone. After some googling I found that the problem was related to the power supply. I found three capacitors with swollen tops 2 1000uf@10V and 1 1200uf@10v. I replaced them and everything works again.
Well, to look for a bad capacitors you need to tested with a ESR meter. But if you are lucky sometime you can spotted just by look at the top of a caps for stress mark (like it going to burst out). The caps look like a tiny battery, other look like a blue button with 2 pins. Sometime it not the caps problems...it's beyond repaired. Anyways, good lucks!
Some Proxima projectors had power supply problems, which resulted in either a dead unit, or, in the early stages of failure, might take a while to come on (maybe even 10 minutes or so).
At the college where I'm employed, we've had 4 or 5 of the DP2000X models with this problem. The cause was a bad electrolytic capacitor in the power supply, namely a 47MFD/25volt unit, in the primary side of the circuit. I have pics of this circuit board.
Another Proxima model had a shorted ceramic disc capacitor, and a blown fuse.
If you have someone who is technically savvy, they could check your model for such a problem