Question about Maytag MDE9700AYM Electric Dryer

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The dryer is not heating. Continuity reads on the back to thermocouplers? but does not read on the electric coil, is there something else to check or does it need a new heating coil?

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  • Jeffery Crow Sep 07, 2010

    Yes I have ordered a new part and I will install it soon. Thanks for the information! Jeff

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  • Master
  • 1,554 Answers

You should check the resistance of the heating element, not just the continuity. You may have set your meter to check continuity alone and not the resistance. The heating element resistance is 10 ohms across the terminals. It definitely needs to be replaced if the resistance reads infinite (open). Take the heating element out and visually check the coils for any sign of discontinuity to confirm. DO NOT attempt to repair the heating element; replacing it is a MUST. Make sure to disconnect power before attempting any repair work.

Posted on Sep 06, 2010

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    Jahn27 Sep 06, 2010

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2 Answers

Won't heat during cycle



If you have a multimeter you can UNPLUG the dryer and open the back panel.
You can check the heater element if you have continuity and you don't see it burned up it is probably OK. This should read low ohms usually 24ish( rough guess, reasonably close is probably ok) as they do vary. Low number is prob good.

The thermocouple should be above it on the back of the vent usually higher up it will have 2 contacts more than likely. This shuts the heater coil off if it gets too hot. It will also keep the dryer heater in the dryer from turning on if it is bad. This should read infinite ohms no continuity cold. You can "ghetto test" this by heating it in a frying pan and seeing if it closes( 0+ ohms or continuity. You should also replace the thermostat. (looks kind of like the thermocouple 3+ contacts) at the same time. You can test the thermostat as well but these are occasionally different so I would need a model number.

If you find a bad thermocouple you need to make sure that metal vent area there behind it is clear of lint and other garbage. This is a fire hazard and if found is probably what caused the thermocouple to fail.

Hope this helps!

Jun 08, 2011 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

My drier will run but it does not get hot. Do I need a new heating element? It will also not run down in time, it just keeps running and running.


It sounds like your timer is bad. it is spinning the gear but it is not connecting the right contacts to engage the heater circuitry. IF this happened at the same time as the heating this is the issue. if not the timer is still bad but you need to look into the heating.

If you have a multimeter you can UNPLUG the dryer and open the back panel.
You can check the heater element if you have continuity and you don't see it burned up it is probably OK. This should read low ohms usually 24ish( rough guess, reasonably close is probably ok) as they do vary. Low number is prob good.

The thermocouple should be above it on the back of the vent usually higher up it will have 2 contacts more than likely. This shuts the heater coil off if it gets too hot. this should read infinite ohms no continuity cold. You can "ghetto test" this by heating it in a frying pan and seeing if it closes( 0+ ohms or continuity. You should also replace the thermostat. (looks kind of like the thermocouple 3+ contacts) at the same time. You can test the thermostat as well but these are occasionally different so I would need a model number.

If you find a bad thermocouple you need to make sure that metal vent area there behind it is clear of lint and other garbage. This is a fire hazard and if found is probably what caused the thermocouple to fail.

Hope this helps!

Jun 07, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer warms up but not enough to dry???vent is clean.is there a thermocouple or what else?


ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks.
If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the
wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed
component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame.
Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch.
Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed.
If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause
heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the
thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape
or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged
with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's
plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace an element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

Apr 15, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

I have an LG DLE8377NM electric dryer that is spinning great and even blowing air great, but no heat. I read that it could be the heating element, thermostat, thermal cut out switch or it isnt getting...


You will use an ohm meter across the two terminals where the cord attaches to the dryer, and also read the receptical to make sure 220v is getting to the dryer...one hot lead to ground should read 110/120v.
When both leads read 110/120v then that is your 220v.
Here is a little more info for you:

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace the element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

Dec 27, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore electric dryer model number 86860100 dryer not heating.....cleaned out vents not the problem....everything else seems to work.. I had seen in the past it glow in back of the dryer so I turned out...


hello there:
Testing with an ohm meter checking on a dryer....
These are the places that pass voltage to the heater elements on an electric dryer. In order to check a dryer for no heat, here is a list of places to check. Remember to always unplug the appliance before starting testing with an ohm meter. Always remove wires from the part you are testing with an ohm meter ( write down what goes where first before removing any wires ).
Meter testing and usage tips.
1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter.
2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work.
3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode.
4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element.
5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches.
6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter.
7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuity across a good element 8-12 OHMS

Jan 09, 2010 | Kenmore Dryers

2 Answers

Kenmore dryer heats at first then quits


You may have a bad thermocouple. The thermocouple is what "tells" the control unit that the flame is present. If it doesn't tell the control, the control turns the gas off to prevent an explosion.

Jan 02, 2010 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer turns but heating element does not get hot


Sounds like your problem is with the heating coil.
If you plan to try to repair the problem yourself, then the first thing you want to do is unplug the dryer from the electric.
Remove the back of the machine and try to locate the air tube going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside the air tube you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistor.
Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with a continuity meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
Good Luck,
Hope this helps

Oct 07, 2009 | Hotpoint NBXR463EBWW Electric Dryer

1 Answer

The dryer does not heat up, it starts and everything, but no heat


Sounds like your problem is with the heating coil.
If you plan to try to repair the problem yourself, then the first thing you want to do is unplug the dryer from the electric.
Remove the back of the machine and try to locate the air tube going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside the air tube you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistor.
Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with a continuity meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
Good Luck,
Hope this helps

Oct 07, 2009 | LG Dryers

1 Answer

Drye runs but does not get warm


Sounds like your heating coil is faulty.
Unplug the dryer, remove the back of the dryer.
Locate the air tube going from the blower to the drum.
Normally inside the air tube is where you will find the heating coil and thermostats.
Remove the wires from the heating coil...and check with a continuity meter across the two terminals...you should read continuity across the terminals, if you do not read continuity across the terminals then the heater coil is faulty.
Good luck,
I hope this helps

Oct 05, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer not heating


Check for 240V at the outlet and check the continuity of the element coil.
Let me know if you still need help.
Good luck!

Mar 10, 2009 | Frigidaire FER231A Electric Dryer

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