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My Maytag fridge model MZD2665HEW will not defrost. I replaced the ADC board, but still no defrost. What is next? Do I replace the heating element and thermostat next? What tests can i do?

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The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.


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Posted on Sep 06, 2010

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Maytag MSD2651KES the coils are iced over, both the freezer and the fridge are no longer cold. This is the third time in 3 years this has happened, having to replace the Defrost Thermostat and the Defrost...


It could be a faulty defrost heating element or a bad terminal connection somewhere in the defrost wiring circuit. Make sure the doors seal properly. ie. no gaps between the door seals and the unit when the doors are closed. Door seal leaks can cause coil icing. If okay, the heating element is not working properly (heating up) during the defrost cycle. ie. The ice on the coils never melts off the evaporator coils.

Aug 12, 2013 | Maytag Refrigerators

1 Answer

Mzd 2766ges adc board


I have no idea what the tech was thinking! What would a water filter have to do with the unit shutting down?! From what you have described, I would say the ADC is getting stuck in the defrost model. Replace the ADC and you should be good to go. Here is the part to order.
Keep me posted and throw that techs number in the garbage!

Nov 30, 2012 | Maytag MZD2766GES Side by Side...

1 Answer

HOW DO YOU PUT REFRIG IN DEFROST MODE WHEN IT HAS ELECTRONIC DEFROST CONTROLLER


You didnt give the make of the ref.; But your solution is here for most all

The newest defrost feature in modern fridges is the electronic adaptive defrost control board. *Maytag has one version, see picture...to put this adaptive defrost style of fridge into defrost, short with a small screwdriver between L1 and test on the adaptive defrost board, wait 3 seconds and you should hear a "click" noise from the relay and the fridge will shut off and go through a defrost cycle. A close up common way *this* version of the Maytag/JennAir control is wired.
Amana also has a version of adaptive defrost, see info sheet for some help on the Amana version. Press refrigerator light switch five times in six seconds to initiate defrost cycle. Pressing five more times within six seconds will cancel defrost and go straight into the run mode. Similar operation on both bottom mount and SxS refrigerators. After the defrost terminator/thermostat opens, six minutes of dwell time occurs before the compressor and condenser fan motor will operate. After defrost terminator/thermostat open, 10 minutes of dwell time occurs before the evaporator fan motor will operate.
Frigidaire has also jumped into the market with an adaptive defrost board. The fresh food section light switch and light bulb must work. To initiate a defrost cycle, open the door and push the light switch in and out 5 times within 6 seconds. The compressor and fans should shut off and the defrost heater should come on. Open the door and push the light switch in and out 5 times within 6 seconds to remove the refrigerator from the defrost mode and back into a cooling mode.
Frigidaire - referance model FSC23F7DSB3
This product comes equipped with an Adaptive Defrost Control (ADC). To activate manual defrost, press and hold the Freezer temperature UP (WARMER) key while pressing the Fresh Food temperature DOWN (COLDER) key 5 times within 6 seconds. A ?¿½d?¿½ in the freezer temperature window and ?¿½F?¿½ in the refrigerator temperature window will display when the heater is activated. To deactivate manual defrost, press and hold Freezer temperature UP (WARMER) key while pressing the Fresh Food temperature DOWN (COLDER) key 5 times within 6 seconds. ?¿½d?¿½ and ?¿½F?¿½ will be displayed until the defrost cycle is complete. (approx. 8 minutes)
For some Whirlpool refrigerators - some Kenmore refrigerators are made by Whirlpool ( 106.######## )
The refrigerator/freezer defrost system can be checked by manually initiating a defrost cycle. There
are two methods of initiating the ADC Test Mode.
First Test Method:
1. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
3. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
4. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
5. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
6. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
7. Turn the thermostat off.
In 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal closed). NOTE: The test mode will terminate when the bimetal opens. If the refrigerator/freezer is already in defrost, Test Mode can be terminated by unplugging the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet and waiting 30 seconds before plugging it back in. The refrigerator/freezer should immediately go into cooling mode if the thermostat is closed.
If this first test procedure fails to make the ADC initiate a defrost cycle, try the following procedure to make the ADC begin the Test Mode.
Second Test Method:
1. Disconnect the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet for at least 30 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat off.
3. Reconnect power to the refrigerator/freezer.
Within 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal close). If the unit fails to go into the defrost mode during this test, the problem may not be with the ADC. A defective bimetal may be the cause of the failure. The ADC will only go into a test mode if the bimetal
is closed. If the ADC senses an open bimetal it will return to the cooling mode within 3 to 8 seconds.
HELPFUL HINT: Upon entering the Test Mode, the relay mounted on the ADC board should turn off the compressor and turn on the defrost heater. Listen for the relay to click.
?¿½ If the relay clicks one time when entering the Test Mode, check for continuity in the defrost heater.
?¿½ If the relay clicks two times, check for an open bimetal.

Maytag S-S Refrigerator MSD2756GEW forcing defrost cycle
I replaced my defrost heater two weeks ago, but the frost built back up on the evaporator coils. Replaced the adaptive defrost board with new ( Maytag p/n 6100598 8 ) board. Want to force a defrost cycle to see the heater work, so I shorted the L1 pin to adjacent pin (now called DOOR instead of TEST) for three seconds and nothing happens. Compressor keeps running, fans still going etc. Tried pressing the door switches 5 times in 6 seconds and that doesn't work either. Any hints on how to get the defrost cycle to initiate?
Hi,
This might help, a copy:
The issue is that some 12002104 ADC boards have been shipped in the 61005988 ADC board box. Do not reorder the board, the 12002104 board will function the same in place of the 61005988, but you must use the forced defrost method for the 12002104. Jumping "L-1" and "door" will not initiate the forced defrost function.
To Initiate Forced Defrost Cycle:
Cycle cold control on and off three times in six seconds. The cold control needs to be left in the closed (call for cooling) position for the defrost system to energize on all platforms. It is not enough to cycle the cold control knob, the contacts must actually open and close (open doors for a period of time if necessary to force the control to call for cooling). In most cases, you can hear the contacts open and close if they are doing so.
To Terminate Forced Defrost Cycle:
Disconnect power for five seconds.
You were right. I cycled the cooling controls three times and it went into a defrost cycle. Thanks.

Aug 08, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

We have a Kenmore Elite Freezer Model #253.29082994. We had the freezer plugged in and it was working fine. We unplugged it and moved it and now when we plug it in it won't start. Is there some kind of...


You refrigerator was made by Frigidaire Adaptive Defrost Controls Frigidaire Refrigerator Trouble Shooting and Diagnosing
On the initial plugin, or when power is restored to the fridge after a power outage:
If terminating thermostat is open, the fridge enters a compressor (cooling) cycle.
If the terminating thermostat is closed, the first defrost cycle occurs 1 hour
after initial plug-in.
Maximum defrost cycle time is 24 minutes.
Minimum time between defrost cycles is 6 hours. (compressor runtime)
Maximum normal clock time between defrost cycles is 12 hours.
Maximum time between defrost cycles (in "vacation" mode) is 72 hours.
Vacation mode is not entered unless the door has not been opened in at least 24 hours.
Note that the ADC will only enter the defrost mode if the terminating thermostat is closed. If the terminating thermostat is open when defrost is initiated, the ADC board will wait for six minutes and then return to the cooling mode.
ASSUMING that the fridge has been on and running,
and the terminating thermostat is closed,
defrost is initiated by pressing the door (light) switch
at least five times within six seconds.
The defrost heater should start heating up within 8 seconds.
If the above procedure caused the heater to heat up, the ADC board is probably bad; replace it.
If the defrost heater does not heat up, test the defrost heater, terminating thermostat and cold control for continuity as follows:
Unplug the fridge from the wall. Unplug the ADC board from its connector.
Test the connector for continuity between the following leads:
Defrost Heater = DEF TERM (blue) to DEF OUT (brown).
Terminating Thermostat = DEF TERM (blue) to NEUTRAL (lt blue).
Cold Control = COLD CONTROL (orange) to L1 (black).
Replace the defective component.

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Apr 26, 2011 | Kenmore Freezers

1 Answer

Build up of ice on back wall of the freezer compartment, and fridge running 23.5 hours a day. Tech came last week to repair, under warranty. Ran a silicon bead around the doors, he thought they weren't...


Wow If you have frost on theback of he freezer and now you dont have any air going to the fridge your defrost timer is out or the heating element in the fzr side or the thermal limit on the element. And there is no reason to ever put a bead of silicone on the door or around the door unless the plastic is cracked. You need to call for another tech. You should defrost you fzr manually before they get there and tell them the fzr had an ice block in the back and you want them to ck the above parts. I am sorry you had a bad experience with a repairman if you decide to do it your self let me know I will walk you thru it. good luck

Aug 16, 2010 | Maytag Refrigerators

1 Answer

Freezer is cold but refridgerator is warm. older frost free model


Your defrost circuit is probably broken.

Are you getting lots of frost on the bottom of your freezer?

Is there any airflow in the top portion of the fridge? You can test this by blowing a little cigarette smoke into the refrig section to watch the air pattern.

If you have excessive frosting above and no air below....it may be time for either a new heating element or a defrost controller board.

Some older units allow you to just turn on the defrost circuit and see if the heating element has gone bad. You may want to buy the controller first if it fails the forced power on test. Then, if that doesnt do it...you can buy and replace the heating element.

Good luck and be careful.

Feb 03, 2010 | Maytag Admiral Top-Freezer Refrigerator

1 Answer

Maytag MZD2665HEW ADC replacement


You will find the defrost control board inside the panel that contains the two turn knobs where you control the temp inside both compartments. It's inside your fresh food section of your unit. Pull the two knobs off, take the screw out of the side and remove plastic piece. Between the two temp controls there is a square box. The board is located inside the box. Take box apart and replace board.

If you would like a parts blowup of the unit, go to www.partselect.com and enter your model number. Select the Control panel to the left. This will give you a blowup of the parts.
Please rate solution

Sep 10, 2009 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Adaptive Defrost Control Bad?


If there is no continuity on the heating element, it is BAD. Replace the heater and the defrost thermostat at the same time.

Aug 02, 2009 | Maytag Refrigerators

3 Answers

Freezer coils keep freezing up.


I had a similar problem with a Maytage Side-by-SIde Model MDZ2768GEW, (purchased in 2001). Defrost not working...poor cooling in both the freezer and fridge. We opened up the back of the Freezing side and the coils were iced. This Model is auto defrost so obviously something was not working. We called a Sears repair office and they sent a guy that told us we needed to defrost the unit. Well...I wasn't home and my father-in-law didn't question it - he defrosted it! I was busy at the time and didn't pursue it until the problem naturally resurfaced a month or so later. Not wanting to haggle with Sears over their Tech's lazy incompetence (or the $100 I was out), I decided to commence troubleshooting. I'm an ex Navy nuke electrician and electrical engineer so this didn't seem to be beyond my ability. Not having the Owners Manual, I internet searched until I found this site: www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/html/index.html. You can download your model's Service Manual and root around for other tech info their. I found the manual for mine and performed the troubleshooting for the Adaptive Defrost Control. Its fairly easy to do and you don't have to empty the entire fridge. You do have to empty the upper shelf in the fresh food (cooler) side to gain access to the controls. --This may not be in the exact order needed but you remove the light shield by pulling down on the back corners of the cover and sliding it forward (slotted attachment - no screws). Next Remove several screws holding the fascia / radiant shield on. Then remove screws that mount the control housing to top of fridge, etc. I also removed two screws that mount the ADC to the plastic housing to get access to the ADC. Basically, remove enough screws to lower the top assembly down to get to the ADC... --You may need to turn off the fridge now (or do it before you started the previous steps but the light helped me). If you are not using a Wattmeter, I don't think you need to pull the power cord. --The Service Manual next says to attach a Wattmeter to the fridge (and assumedly plug it back in). Most people don't have a Wattmeter...but what I had is a clamp-on ammeter...which you can get as part of "better" multi-meters for well under $100. An ammeter is good enough if you know how to multiply voltage and current to get VA (or approximately) Watts. Any idiot can do this...I think. P(Power) = V x I x pf. What you calculate with VxI is Apparent Power (VA). You convert to "real" power (Watts) by multiplying VA x pf. You generally have to guess at pf, but 0.8 for a motor/compressor is a good approximation and 1.0 for a heater or indandescent light bulb is roughly good. Enough electrical basics... --With Fridge plugged in, and being careful not to touch exposed connections, move the ADC control board so you can gain access to it (2 screws were removed previously to loosen it from the housing at top/back right of fresh food side). The ADC is a small printed ckt board about 3" x 3". --Use a small insulated jumper (or insulated alligator clip) and jumper Pins labeled "L1" and "Test". These are labeled on the PC board and were the two left-most pins, side by side, on my ADC. The Manual doesn't say whether to leave the jumper on or not. I tried both ways and I believe all you need to do is momentarily jumper the two pins (but my ADC wasn't working right, which I will get to later)...so I'm a bit unclear on this part. Also - DO NOT jumper between any other pins, or you may damage the ADC, if it's not toast already. The pins are close together so you need to take some care in doing this. --According to the Service Manual, you should read about 500-600 Watts of total power consumption if the unit is in Defrost mode. I found (referring to the electrical schematic), the main red power wire (ty-wrapped to a green/yellow wire that goes to the main lights). Power is red so it's process of elimination to find the "right" red wire. It's not that hard to figure out. I also confirmed this by playing with the door switch light and watching amps go up and down as I pressed & released the door switch. Ultimately, I measured about 2.2 Amps with the unit working normally (cooling) and 6 Amps in Defrost mode...and about 120 Vac supply. So...VoltsxAmps=VA, which equates to 720VA. I don't know what the power factor of the unit is...but with the compressor and freezer fan off, and only the defrost heater and lights on...the power factor would be close to 1.0. So my reading might have been a touch high but...what it did prove is that a) the heater works (I could feel heat off of it and I had the freezer panel removed and saw it melting ice), and b) the thermostat was working. --I also confirmed proper thermostat operation by measuring it "open" with an ohmmeter after the defrost cycle and measuring it "closed" once it cooled down enough (book says ~ 45F thermostat opens and ~15F it closes (to allow defrost when commanded by ADC). --What I found was that when I jumpered L1 and TEST, the Defrost didn't come on...until I manually turned the Freezer control off - and then back on again. Once I did this it started Defrosting (amps rose from about 2 to 6, compressor and freezer fan shut off and heater started heating. I repeated this twice after waiting for the unit to cool down after the defrost cycle. You can also just unplug the fridge to terminate the Defrost cycle and if the temp hasn't risen above the thermostat setpoint, you can immediately repeat jumper testing as necessary. --The defrost heater stayed on for about 5-8 minutes and after a total of 23 minutes the compressor/fan restarted - which matched what I read somewhere - though doesn't match the ADC Instruction Manual - which I show a website for further down. --So it appears the ADC is just not entering the Defrost cycle but does exit it properly. I believe that my problem is the ADC as I proved the heater works and the thermostat (as I mentioned earlier). Other than bad/intermittent open wiring, there's nothing else in the circuit and I believe I ruled out a bad connection by taking the thermostat connector apart several times and jostling wires up at the ADC to gain access. According to what I can find, the replacement ADC for my unit is Part No. 12002495. One should verify the P/N for their particular model. You can look at the Instruction Sheet here: www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16023486.pdf. It also has some info on how the ADC is supposed to work...NOTE: You should verify this P/N with someone, as I will before I order it. FYI...at Partselect.com, they show a replacement PN (their #) as PS2061226, for about $61. I've seen various prices on different sites and this was pretty reasonable. Lord knows what Maytag/Sears would charge. Maybe add a "1" to the front? ;) PartSelect also indicates different "Series" numbers for the same PS number for the ADC...not sure about which one I have so Buyer beware, make sure you resolve this before ordering -- I still have to. Anyway, hope this is helpful to someone out there in cyberspace. I will have to confirm my P/N and then buy the ADC. If anyone out there, esp pros, have any suggestions feel free to chime in. Except if you are the guy that told us to defrost our auto defrost fridge to "fix" the problem, for 100 smackers no less. You Sir, should be caned 100 times for being a slug. No economic stimulus for You!

May 16, 2009 | Maytag MZD2766GES Side by Side...

1 Answer

Defrost Heater Resistance Range


21.3 ohms is just fine for a defrost heater. this heater is low wattage since it is an adaptive defrost. you could have problem with temperature sensor since you have replaced the board already.

tnx for using fixya,

drcool

Sep 30, 2008 | Maytag MSD2756G Side by Side Refrigerator

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