Question about Altec Lansing ATP 3W Computer Speakers

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Broken right speaker

My 6 year old son pulled the right speaker (the one with the volume controls on it) and the wires pulled out. My husband tried to fix it but despite his efforts, not only does the right speaker not work, but neither the left speaker or subwoofer will work now. Any advice on hooking it up wothout the right speaker? Or maybe a diagram for rewiring the broken one? please help!

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I just inherited a ATP3 subwoofer only!
Does anyone know if I can run a left and a right speaker from a different manufacturer with my Altec subwoofer???

Posted on Dec 03, 2012

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The only way to fix,is to colour code them back together,or go spend some more $$$ on new ones....later

Posted on May 12, 2008

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Dear Bethann240
It is very difficult to rewire the right speaker( the one with the controls). The black cable contains an orange and black pair which drive the "big" speaker in the base. The white wire has the wires for the controls. That white wire is .090 in in dia. Peel back the white pvc insulation and you will find a layer of aluminum foil which is intended to shield the control wires.Then there is another layer of insulation. Peel that insulation back and you find SIX color coded lacquer insulated wires. Each wire is .010 in in dia. If you attempt to solder the severed wires together you will doubtlessly melt the lacquer and short the cable out. Twisting the wires together without removing the lacquer won't work. The satellite speakers were intended to be non-repairable, thats why the case is glued together.

The best bet is throw the right speaker in the trash and try to purchase a replacement from Altec or find a replacement in a flea market etc.

Sorry
Elder1943

Posted on Jun 01, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Guys,

In case my nickname does not show, this is treefarmer. I had the same problem and decided to fix it myself over this Christmas. I was successful, and here is what I found.

In my case, the problem lies with the volume control chip ( it has a voltage controlled amplifier, or VCA in it) on the main amplifier board. The voltage which controls the volume for all channels comes from the right front speaker. There is an issue with the I.C., in that it has some abnormal loading (leakage) of the volume control signal at the I.C. pin. You need about 5.2 volts for full volume output, and on my system, I can only get about 1 volt. You can find the IC data sheet (Mitsubishi M51132L) here:

datasheet.html">http://www.datasheetarchive.com/M51132L-datasheet.html

The parts inside the enclosure get quite hot under normal operation, and I would not be surprised if this I.C. has an issue with degradation under high temperature. Regardless of the problem, I managed to get the volume back with one simple fix.

If you can open up the right front speaker, place a 10 kohm resistor in parallel with R1, which should have three orange stripes, and one gold stripe. This fixed mine, but this might only be temporary, depending on how much worse the volume control I.C. becomes.

I did check out the power supply, including transformers and everything else, and they all look fine. It would surprise me if the transformer failed as has been posted in other forums. They should be able to survive higher temperatures than the other electronic components in the box, especially when most of them are consumer grade parts with a max temperature of 70 C. One thing of note is that turning off the right front speaker pretty much shuts off most of the quiescent current draw of the amplifier board. I found that with only the sub cabinet switch on, nothing gets warm. You won't see significant warming of the interior components until you turn on the right front speaker. However, then the inside of the sub enclosure gets pretty hot (too hot in my opinion) just sitting there with all the speakers powered up.

I would recommend at least turning off the Right Front speaker when the computer is powered down. More often if you are not listening to anything. I don't think you need to shut off the sub enclosure to keep things cool, but turning off everything ensures that the amp is not sitting there cooking itself. And, unless Altec has changed the design, I would bet new systems will fail in the same manner.

For what that's worth. Hopefully somebody will find this helpful

TF

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