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U-line 95 ice maker

Fails to dump ice.  Starting the rotation the gears manually shuts down the compressor and dumps the ice and refills the mold. Ice freezes but cycle does not begin again until the manual rotation of the gears.

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  • 286 Answers

This problem is due to the timer motor in the faceplate of the icemaker. Replace the faceplate part #150 and that should takecare of your problem

Posted on Jun 23, 2009

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Hello Jamie;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

It sounds like your have a bad ice maker sensor. On the ice maker mold is a long white coated wire. This is a temperature sensor. The sensor tells the ice maker control module that the water in the mold is frozen and to harvest the ice cubes.

The flex mold ice maker that you have is not repairable.
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Your ice-maker may need to be "hard-reset". To do this, perform a manual-defrost by emptying out the freezer (and fridge) and shutting all power off to your unit for several hours (at least half a day unless you can be sure the temp in the freezer has fully reached ambient. Next, with freezer empty, restore power, make sure the "ice" setting is set to off, then set the forced power-freeze mode (you can refill the fridge, but leave the freezer empty for now. When the power-freeze completes (at least 2.5 hours) you can refill the freezer, set the "ice" mode to block/crushed (IE something other than off) and then hit the "black reset button" to restart the ice-maker. IF it still will not dump the cubes then the ice sensor/control board may have failed.

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You have a thermostatically controlled heat release ice maker. Any number of issues can cause a failure to "dump" the ice. The harvest is started when the thermostat closes. A motor rotates the ejector fingers which are at rest in the 2 o'clock position. The ice maker operation will stall until the heater releases the ice from the mold. After the cubes are ejected into the ice bucket, the water valve will refill the mold with water to begin the next cycle. Lack of ice dispensing could be a failed thermostat, heater, motor or switch contact withing the ice maker module. You could simply replace the ice maker and save the expense of the service call.

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It sounds like the ice maker is stuck in the harvest ( dump ) mode , in the area of mold heater activation . This area , heats up the ice mold to unfreeze the cubes , and keeps rotating to dump the cubes . This heater , gets hot enough to actually burn you if you touch the mold .
I would remove the 2 screws holding the ice maker , unplug from the ice maker receptical , and replace the ice maker .

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Is the freezer cold enough? Should be close to 10 degrees.
Is there water or ice in the ice mold? If not put water in it and see if it dumps the ice after it’s frozen. If there is ice, lift the cut off arm and let it drop to see if it will start.
If it does dump the ice but don’t refill with water.
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Is there water or ice in the ice mold? If not put water in it and see if it dumps the ice after it’s frozen. If there is ice, lift the cut off arm and let it drop to see if it will start.
If it does dump the ice but don’t refill with water.
Try swapping the wires on the dual water inlet valve. Then try the water dispenser. The water should go to the ice maker. This will tell you weather or not the ice maker valve is working and if the line is clear.

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Is there water or ice in the ice mold? If not put water in it and see if it dumps the ice after it’s frozen. If there is ice, lift the cut off arm and let it drop to see if it will start.
If it does dump the ice but don’t refill with water.
Try swapping the wires on the dual water inlet valve. Then try the water dispenser. The water should go to the ice maker. This will tell you weather or not the ice maker valve is working and if the line is clear.

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www.u-lineservice.com the main temp control or possibly a shorted mold heater. Not a DIY type of repair.

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The cycle starts when you turn the icemaker on. It starts the dump cycle when the compressor turns off. The mold heater turns on and the cycle motor stalls until the ice cubes release and lets the moror complete its cycle. Then the compressor starts to repeat the cycle. If the mold heater is bad (it should read about 80-85 ohms) it will not dump all the ice and the mold will overflow on the next fill part of the cycle. If the over temperature switch is bad (checks open) It will not let the mold heaters work. The over temperature switch should NEVER open. If it IS open the mold heaters will not heat. MDB

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