Question about KitchenAid KUDS24SE Built-in Dishwasher

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After cycle heater remains on even with door open. Heater is on at all times.

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The timer, the control board, and possibly a relay is what controls the heater. First thing would be to check the relay to see if it is good or not. You can test it with an ohmmeter. The next thing would be to see if the timer is completely shutting off. If not, it may have to be replaced. If the timer and relay are good, you may want to test the power from the control board to see if the board is faulty and not shutting off power to the heater

Posted on Sep 05, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

Water remains in hose and smells


Front loaders are known for bad odors. Run an empty cycle with double bleach and let the machine totally dry out, with the door OPEN. The bleach will kill the mold spores and letting it dry out will prevent more from forming.

Dec 19, 2012 | GE Wh12x10309 Heater for Adora Front Load...

1 Answer

The clean light keeps blinking and won't run new cycle


Whirlpool & Kitchen-Aid
Tall Tub Dishwashers
PROBLEM: STOPPED RUNNING, WILL NOT START AND CLEAN LED BLINKS 7 TIMES, THEN REPEATS (WATER HEATING FAULT)
Control is programmed to stop running and not allow any further
cycles if it detects a water heating problem (no temperature
increase detected in heated Main Wash cycle or in 3 consecutive
cycles on the latest software version). Control blinks the Clean
LED 7 times repeatedly and disables the Start/Resume key until
cleared.
Running Diagnostics clears the control and allows it
to operate again. The water heating condition
must be corrected or the control will stop
running again. See potential causes below.
Check If…
Heater circuit problem:
♦ Open heater.
♦ Wire disconnected, open connection or component
in heater circuit.
♦ Faulty heater drive circuit on control.
Then…
1. Check operation of heater in Diagnostics cycle.
2. Unplug dishwasher or disconnect power.
3. Check resistance of heater and all components
and connections in the water heating circuit or heat
dry circuit.
Door switch not making contact consistently:
♦ Misaligned door latch assembly (which can be
aggravated by high door closure force keeping
strike plate from fully seating).
♦ Faulty door switch (high resistance).
♦ Loose or missing installation anchor screws,
causing tank to shift in cut-out.
NOTE: Neutral switch on plastic tub models is only in series with
the heater; other loads are not affected.
1. Unplug dishwasher or disconnect power.
2. Measure resistance of door switch contacts while
checking mechanical operation of latch assembly.
Confirm switches not loose from assembly. Check
strike plate and door closure.
Wash pump not pumping water past the heater efficiently.
• Foreign object in pump
• Excessive foaming
• Clogged pump screen or broken chopper screen
• Loose electrical connection in motor circuit
See Tech Sheet “WASH PUMP WILL NOT PUMP”.
Lack of water to heat. (Unit not filling properly)
• Insufficient water supply pressure
• Fill valve screen blocked or valve not opening fully
• Loose electrical connection on Fill Valve.
• Float switch obstructed or functioning abnormally
See Tech Sheet “WILL NOT FILL OR LOW
WATER”.
Diagnostic Key Dance:
Heat Dry - Normal - Heat Dry - Normal or
High Temp - Air Dry - High Temp - Air Dry

HOPE THIS HELP

Jan 24, 2010 | KitchenAid 24 in. KUDS01FLSS Built-In...

1 Answer

KitchenAid KUDP01DLBS2 dishwasher. Runs for a very long time on any cycle; time does not seem to advance. (takes 2.5 hours or more for normal cycle. "sensing soak", "water heating" lights on for a long...


Sounds like the heater inside the dishwasher is not working. The machine is trying to get the water up to a preset temperature, probably in the neighborhood of 140 degrees. That is one of the things that it is sensing.

After the machine fills, open it up and take a water temperature reading. After it runs for 10 minutes or so with the water heating light on, but before it drains, open it up again and take another temp reading. If the second temperature is at or below the first temp, the heater is not working. Could be a burned out element, faulty wiring, or bad controller.

Check inside the machine (remove the panel below the door) for a wiring diagram. If there is one there it will give the resistance value for the heater element as well as the wire colors, the circuit diagram, and the cycle times.

Jan 05, 2010 | Dishwashers

1 Answer

A burning smell and steamy smoke come out when we open the door.


Normally, the last part of any cycle involves using the heater element inside, and at the bottom of, the dishwasher to give dishes a final hot rinse. Possibly some small plastic-type material has become melted and stuck to the element - which will remain hot even after all water is discharged. Hence the smell.

Nov 17, 2009 | Whirlpool 24 in. GU980SCG Built-in...

1 Answer

Stays in wash cycle


Solution found in a defective SPDT 'Heater ON' switch which had burnt out, thereby causing an 'open' to pump solenoid, fill valve, and heater. Temporarily bypassing the switch confirms the solution. Buy either the whole switch panel (3 switches) from parts dealer or find a source for CW Industries part GRS2012-13.

May 27, 2009 | GE Dishwashers

2 Answers

Bsoch dishwasher runs long and displays 1 minute left on timer


sounds like a bad solder connection on the heater relay of your control unit. more than likely you will need a new control unit. part number 266746

Feb 22, 2009 | Bosch 24 in. SHU53 Built-in Dishwasher

1 Answer

Blinking "Normal" button


PROBLEM: STOPPED RUNNING, WILL NOT START AND
CLEAN LED BLINKS 7 TIMES, THEN REPEATS
(WATER HEATING FAULT)
Control is programmed to stop
running and not allow any
further cycles if it detects a
water heating problem (no
temperature increase detected
in heated Main Wash on
3 consecutive cycles). Control
blinks the Clean LED 7 times
repeatedly and disables the
Start/Resume key until
cleared.
Running Diagnostics clears the
control and allows it to operate
again. The water heating problem
must be fixed or the control will
stop running again. See potential
causes below.
Heater circuit problem:
■ Open in heater.
■ Open connection or
component in heater circuit.
■ Faulty heater drive circuit on
control.
1. Check operation of heater in
Diagnostics cycle.
2. Unplug dishwasher or disconnect
power.
3. Check resistance of heater and all
components and connections in the
water heating circuit or heat dry
circuit.
Wash pump not pumping water
past the heater efficiently.
See “WASH PUMP WILL NOT
PUMP”.
Door switch not making
contact consistently:
■ Faulty or sloppy door latch
assembly (which can be
aggravated by high door
closure force keeping strike
plate from fully seating).
■ Faulty door switch (high
resistance).
NOTE: Neutral switch on
plastic tub models is only in
series with motor and heater;
other loads are not affected.
1. Unplug dishwasher or disconnect
power.
2. Measure resistance of door
switch contacts while checking
mechanical operation of latch
assembly. Confirm switches not
loose from assembly. Check strike
plate and door closure.
Lack of water to heat. See “WILL NOT FILL OR LOW
WATER”.
PROBLEM: WON’T START AND START/RESUME K

Sep 21, 2008 | Whirlpool GU2400XTP Built-in Dishwasher

3 Answers

BF162 Hotpoint intergrated dishwasher


consult manual under troubleshooting.
if no manual, or if it does not address this, consult service center.

one likely cause you can try first is to disconnect it from power via the cord or a breaker. after a brief period, it may reset itself.
otherwise you likely have a logic board issue.

logic boards seem to be very vulnerable in dishwasher environments. the type of issue you have is very common among most brands. don't feel alone.

good luck
mark

Dec 28, 2007 | Hotpoint 23 in. BFI62 Built-in Dishwasher

1 Answer

Error light flashing


When you switch it on can you still select the wash type ?
If you can, when you shut the door does it start the cycle normally by pumping out the sump, but then when the wash pump (the cause of the main noise during the cycle) would normally start it stops and beeps - opening the door then shows the flashing error code ?

If your symptoms are the same as above or similar, suspect the heater is stuffed. My BFI62 did the above and it turned out to be a faulty (open circuit) heater. As I had no knowledge of dishwashers at the time, I called in a repair guy. As soon as he saw the fault code he suspected the heater - seems a batch of heaters (from the USA) had proved very unreliable (apparently Hotpoint got compensation from the manufacturers because of the number of problems it caused them). The replacement was made in Germany and the repair guy said he'd not known one of those to go faulty !
The repair guy diagnosed the heater open circuit from the control panel inside the door without even removing the dishwasher from it's location. Unfortunately, I didn't have a chance to note which wires ran off the board to the heater. Changing the heater needed it out and on it's side (be prepared for quite a lot of water on the floor).

Finally, when he'd fitted the new heater, it took him two goes to get the pipes either side of it to seal properly - quite common apparently and the source of even more water on the floor !

Hope this helps.

Sep 03, 2007 | Hotpoint 23 in. BFI62 Built-in Dishwasher

2 Answers

Cycle wont run and lights on main washes flash


When you switch it on can you still select the wash type ?
If you can, when you shut the door does it start the cycle normally by pumping out the sump, but then when the wash pump (the cause of the main noise during the cycle) would normally start it stops and beeps - opening the door then shows the flashing error code ?

If your symptoms are the same as above or similar, suspect the heater is stuffed. My BFI62 did the above and it turned out to be a faulty (open circuit) heater. As I had no knowledge of dishwashers at the time, I called in a repair guy. As soon as he saw the fault code he suspected the heater - seems a batch of heaters (from the USA) had proved very unreliable (apparently Hotpoint got compensation from the manufacturers because of the number of problems it caused them). The replacement was made in Germany and the repair guy said he'd not known one of those to go faulty !
The repair guy diagnosed the heater open circuit from the control panel inside the door without even removing the dishwasher from it's location. Unfortunately, I didn't have a chance to note which wires ran off the board to the heater. Changing the heater needed it out and on it's side (be prepared for quite a lot of water on the floor).

Finally, when he'd fitted the new heater, it took him two goes to get the pipes either side of it to seal properly - quite common apparently and the source of even more water on the floor !

Hope this helps.

Oct 27, 2006 | Hotpoint 23 in. BFI62 Built-in Dishwasher

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