Question about GE GSH22SGRSS Side by Side Refrigerator
If the elements (black coil) of the defrost heater looks damaged? yes , need to be replaced , the thermostat is actually an electric timer that by certain amount of time will heat the element that goes around the freezer to keep it from getting frost, so their the same . AJ
Posted on May 12, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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Apr 01, 2013 | Whirlpool Refrigerators
Nov 21, 2011 | Hotpoint Refrigerators
Sep 30, 2011 | Kenmore 24.8 cu. ft. TRIO Bottom Freezer...
My fridge is running but not cold enough: Start out with the easy stuff first...make sure the lights go out when you close the door(s), make sure the doors are closing properly and the gaskets are closing fully and are not torn or ripped. Check to make sure the evaporator fan in the freezer is working, this fan blows the cold air around. If the fan is not working, possible bad fan motor - check for power to the f
The most common fridge "not cooling" problem is a frost free failure. Remove the access panel in the freezer section to expose the evaporator coils. If the coils in the freezer section get plugged up with frost, this frost will block the evaporator fan motor from blowing the cold air around. The fan blade can also hit this frost and either become noisy or stop altogether. Locating the defrost timer can be tricky....they are often hidden behind the back bottom corners of the fridge at the bottom, in the last few years the timers have been located in the ceiling of the fresh food section, and some are behind the cold control cover. Once you locate the defrost timer, slowly turn the screw likeknob in the middle of the defrost timer with a straight screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. You are now in defrost. If the defrost heater (s) comes on now, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater(s) does not come on, you can continuity test the defrost heater for continuity or test for 120 volts to the heater(s). If you have no power to the defrost heater (s) you can also bypass the defrost thermostat to see if the defrost heater will come on, jumper the wires together to bypass the defrost thermostat. If the heater now comes on, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater itself is bad, defrost the fridge with a hair dryer, replace the defrost heater (s) and defrost thermostat. If the defrost timer seems "hot" to the touch or is noisy ( like a ticking or screeching noise )...replace it.
Sep 11, 2011 | Sharp Refrigerators
Aug 16, 2011 | Refrigerators
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When the refrigerator is running ( cooling mode ) the defrost timer contacts
prevents any power from getting to the defrost heater. When the defrost timer
turns off the power to the compressor and fan motor(s) the power is then
redirected to the defrost system. The defrost timer
During a defrost cycle, the defrost heater causes the metal alloy in the switch to warm and as it does it curls back and breaks the circuit. As the metal cools, it makes a closed circuit again. A defective thermostat can prevent the defrost heater from coming on or allow it to overheat which could result in heat damage or fire.
The defrost thermostat is located near the defrost heater and is wired in series. It is usually located at the back of a side by side freezer, behind the freezer back wall of a top freezer or under the floor. It will be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker and the inside rear or bottom panel of the freezer. At room temperature the defrost thermostat is an open circuit ( no continuity ) and when cooled down the defrost thermostat closes the circuit ( has full continuity ) to allow the defrost heater to come on.
The defrost timer is sometimes found behind the front grill of the refrigerator. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the refrigerator or freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the refrigerator near the compressor.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector.
Locate the timer switch and turn it
clockwise until you hear it click.
One click and the refrigerator shuts off = defrost mode, second click the
compressor and fans come back on = run/cooling mode.
*Some defrost timers are a constant or continuous run timer, which
means when ever the refrigerator is plugged in the defrost timer is powered up
and running. Some defrost timers are an accumulative run timer, which means when
the refrigerator is off the defrost timer is off and not running, when the
refrigerator is running the defrost timer is running. This is also sometimes
called a demand defrost. The power for the defrost timer goes through the cold
control first on an accumulative defrost system. The timers are often the same
but will be wired differently to get the different operations.
Test the heating element for
continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to
the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should
display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. Because of the number of
different elements we cannot tell what your reading should be, but we can be
certain of what it shouldn't be. If the reading is zero or infinity the heating
element is definitely bad and should be replaced. Proper power ( careful!! ) to
the heating element ( 110-120 volts AC ) and the defrost heater does not come on
= bad defrost heater.
Some newer refrigerators have been
using an electronic board instead of an mechanical defrost timer. The adaptive defrost control does the same job as the
defrost timer ( shuts off the refrigerator cooling items and redirects the power
to the defrost heater for the defrosting cycle, then redirects the power to the
compressor and fans to come back on when the defrost cycle is over ). This
adaptive defrost system is a bit different when testing, normally speaking if
the defrost heater and defrost thermostat ohm ok, we replace the adaptive
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Oct 13, 2010 | GE GSH22SGRSS Side by Side Refrigerator
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