Question about GE GSH22SGRSS Side by Side Refrigerator

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Another question. Is thermostat different from thermostat timer? and Don't I need to replace defrost heater? Thank You so much

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If the elements (black coil) of the defrost heater looks damaged? yes , need to be replaced , the thermostat is actually an electric timer that by certain amount of time will heat the element that goes around the freezer to keep it from getting frost, so their the same . AJ

Posted on May 12, 2008

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Freezer works but fridge does not


Lets see if the defrost timer being turned clockwise slowly will force defrost and cause things to get colder. On page 5 of the (click HERE=>ET4WSKXKQ02 Parts Manual ) you will see location 4? That is the 2188371 Defrost Timer
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inside the fresh food com[partment at the top and behind the control panel will be the 2188371 Defrost Timer If forcing defrost solves the cooling problem then just replace the 2188371 Defrost Timer and if not we will need to check the 2176942 Defrost Heater Assembly and the 2192096 Defrost Thermostat Don't buy ba defrost thermostat until we discuss a different way of getting one to work should you need one (last resort because of cost) My focus is defrost timer and defrost heater at this point you will not need all the wires on the defrost thermostat should you need one just splice a simple defrost thermostat into the wiring harness. Below is a short movie on testing the defrost heater or click HERE Talk with me and we will get this refrigerator working, Sea Breeze
Refrigerator Defrost Heater Test
Refrigerator Defrost Thermostat Test


Apr 01, 2013 | Whirlpool Refrigerators

1 Answer

My Hotpoint CSX203A side by side refrigerator is warm on refrigerator side, but freezer side is fine.


Let's begin by looking for the defrost timer in photo here=> CSX20BABCWH Fresh Food Section Controls The part number is=> WR9X489 Sounds like you are not getting defrost and this is the most likely reason. Turn the defrost timer clockwise slowly until compressor and fans stop. Allow to remain like this up to 30 minutes and open freezer door and then listen for sizzling or crackle noise. This will indicate the fridge is in defrost. If the timer does not restart the compressor after this time simply turn again slowly clockwise until it starts. If this works the timer needs replaced. You have two other parts the defrost heater and defrost thermostat to check if the above does not work. Then click here=> .CSX20BABCWH Freezer Section Components See the part location 230 is your=> WR51X442 Glass Tube Heater Then finally the defrost thermostat is part location 240 and part number=> WR50X122 Defrost Thermostat
Try the timer first and let me know how that comes out and I will go through replacing the defrost Heater and defrost thermostat once I know how the fist test works. If helpful please rat if not then please tell me what I can answer from here, Thank You Sea Breeze

Nov 21, 2011 | Hotpoint Refrigerators

1 Answer

My kenmore trio freezer is cold, but not the refidgerator is not, and there is frost and ice where the cold air blows in from the freezer.


Since Kenmore is manufactured by several different manufactures, you should find the model number off the equipment id tag and provide that so I can give you the best advice. It will probably be located beside the vegtable tray in that unit, but not always.

You have a defrost system failure. Your defrost system is made up of the defrost heater, defrost thermostat and defrost timer/control board (newer units have incoorporated the timer onto the control board). You will need an ohm meter to check the heater (if it isn't open - it is good) and the thermostat (low ohm reading normal 28-38 ohms) but the timer is a different story. So you will need to rule out the heater and thermostat before replacing the timer/control board.

Sep 30, 2011 | Kenmore 24.8 cu. ft. TRIO Bottom Freezer...

1 Answer

My freezer (upper) works but my fridge (lower) doesn't. There's nothing clogging the vent. What could be the problem? Thank u!



My fridge is running but not cold enough: Start out with the easy stuff first...make sure the lights go out when you close the door(s), make sure the doors are closing properly and the gaskets are closing fully and are not torn or ripped. Check to make sure the evaporator fan in the freezer is working, this fan blows the cold air around. If the fan is not working, possible bad fan motor - check for power to the f


The most common fridge "not cooling" problem is a frost free failure. Remove the access panel in the freezer section to expose the evaporator coils. If the coils in the freezer section get plugged up with frost, this frost will block the evaporator fan motor from blowing the cold air around. The fan blade can also hit this frost and either become noisy or stop altogether. Locating the defrost timer can be tricky....they are often hidden behind the back bottom corners of the fridge at the bottom, in the last few years the timers have been located in the ceiling of the fresh food section, and some are behind the cold control cover. Once you locate the defrost timer, slowly turn the screw likeknob in the middle of the defrost timer with a straight screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. You are now in defrost. If the defrost heater (s) comes on now, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater(s) does not come on, you can continuity test the defrost heater for continuity or test for 120 volts to the heater(s). If you have no power to the defrost heater (s) you can also bypass the defrost thermostat to see if the defrost heater will come on, jumper the wires together to bypass the defrost thermostat. If the heater now comes on, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater itself is bad, defrost the fridge with a hair dryer, replace the defrost heater (s) and defrost thermostat. If the defrost timer seems "hot" to the touch or is noisy ( like a ticking or screeching noise )...replace it.

bobicehouse_88.jpg Defrost timer


bobicehouse_89.jpg Defrost thermostat


bobicehouse_90.jpg Defrost heater

Sep 11, 2011 | Sharp Refrigerators

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I cant locate the defrost timer on my amana AFD2535FES. my freezer is cold but the fridge isn't


Hello,
That model refrig. does not use older style parts sorry their is no defrost timer. What is uses is a control board to turn on the defrost cycle. Before replacing the defrost control board check the defrost heater and thermostat first. Check both defrost heater and defrost thermostat first using a meter to check continuty on both of them. If either the defrost heater or t-stat dont hav econtinuty they will be the problem. If both check good the control should be replaced. These pictures show where the defrost heater and thermostat are while or model will look different the location of them will be very similar RMOSTAT IT MUST BE COLD SO CHECK IT WHILE FROST IS BUILT UP AROUND IT.oldtech2332_11.jpgoldtech2332_12.jpg

Aug 16, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Refrigerator isn't cooling that well and freezer is building up with ice


If your unit is NOT a no frost/self defrosting unit, you will need to manually defrost it.

If it is a no forst style, then you will need to open up the back panel of your freezer and locate the defrost circuit components - defrost heater; defrost thermostat and defrost timer. The defrost heater normally looks like a short piece of rope lighting. You can check to find out if it is good with an ohm meter. Disconnect the defrost heater and put a lead on both ends - if you have continuity then it is good. If you don't replace it. The thermostat and timer are harder to check and if the defrost heater is good, I would advise you to replace both.

Jul 09, 2011 | Whirlpool Refrigerators

1 Answer

Frigidaire PLHS269ZDB9 is not getting cold enough to freeze or make ice. I took off the panel , there is an ice block on the thermostat to the evaporator. trying to defrost.


When the refrigerator is running ( cooling mode ) the defrost timer contacts prevents any power from getting to the defrost heater. When the defrost timer turns off the power to the compressor and fan motor(s) the power is then redirected to the defrost system. The defrost timer motor


Defrost thermostat:
During a defrost cycle, the defrost heater causes the metal alloy in the switch to warm and as it does it curls back and breaks the circuit. As the metal cools, it makes a closed circuit again. A defective thermostat can prevent the defrost heater from coming on or allow it to overheat which could result in heat damage or fire.
The defrost thermostat is located near the defrost heater and is wired in series. It is usually located at the back of a side by side freezer, behind the freezer back wall of a top freezer or under the floor. It will be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker and the inside rear or bottom panel of the freezer. At room temperature the defrost thermostat is an open circuit ( no continuity ) and when cooled down the defrost thermostat closes the circuit ( has full continuity ) to allow the defrost heater to come on.



Defrost timers:
The defrost timer is sometimes found behind the front grill of the refrigerator. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the refrigerator or freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the refrigerator near the compressor.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector.

Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. One click and the refrigerator shuts off = defrost mode, second click the compressor and fans come back on = run/cooling mode.

*Some defrost timers are a constant or continuous run timer, which means when ever the refrigerator is plugged in the defrost timer is powered up and running. Some defrost timers are an accumulative run timer, which means when the refrigerator is off the defrost timer is off and not running, when the refrigerator is running the defrost timer is running. This is also sometimes called a demand defrost. The power for the defrost timer goes through the cold control first on an accumulative defrost system. The timers are often the same but will be wired differently to get the different operations.



Defrost heater:

Test the heating element for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. Because of the number of different elements we cannot tell what your reading should be, but we can be certain of what it shouldn't be. If the reading is zero or infinity the heating element is definitely bad and should be replaced. Proper power ( careful!! ) to the heating element ( 110-120 volts AC ) and the defrost heater does not come on = bad defrost heater.


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Some newer refrigerators have been using an electronic board instead of an mechanical defrost timer. The adaptive defrost control does the same job as the defrost timer ( shuts off the refrigerator cooling items and redirects the power to the defrost heater for the defrosting cycle, then redirects the power to the compressor and fans to come back on when the defrost cycle is over ). This adaptive defrost system is a bit different when testing, normally speaking if the defrost heater and defrost thermostat ohm ok, we replace the adaptive defrost board.


Nov 28, 2010 | Frigidaire Refrigerators

1 Answer

Kenmore Coldspot freezer too warm


Hi,

Remove the access panel in the freezer section to expose the evaporator coils. If the coils in the freezer section get plugged up with frost, this frost will block the evaporator fan motor from blowing the cold air around. The fan blade can also hit this frost and either become noisy or stop altogether. Locating the defrost timer can be tricky....they are often hidden behind the back bottom corners of the fridge at the bottom, in the last few years the timers have been located in the ceiling of the fresh food section, and some behind the cold control cover. Once you locate the defrost timer, slowly turn the screw like wheel in the middle of the defrost timer with a straight screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. You are now in defrost. If the defrost heater(s) comes on now, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater(s) does not come on, you can ohm test the defrost heater for continuity or volt test for 120 volts to the heater(s). If you have no power to the defrost heater(s) you can also bypass the defrost thermostat to see if the defrost heater will come on, join the 2 wires together to bypass the defrost thermostat. If the heater now comes on, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater itself is bad, defrost the fridge with a hair dryer, replace the defrost heater* and defrost thermostat. If the defrost timer seems "hot" to the touch or is noisy ( like a ticking or screeching noise )...replace it.

Hope this helpout......

Jul 28, 2010 | Kenmore Refrigerators

1 Answer

Freezer on my hotpoint refrigde is freezing up while the other side is warming up,have already replaced the defost timer 4 weeks ago.


Good day,
New parts can fail, but to test your timer, turn the shaft on the timer clockwise until the machine shuts off. Leave it like that. The timer can be many different time cycles, so just wait up thru 45 minutes.
It should turn the machine back on. If so, the timer is O.K.
There are 2 other parts to the defrost system. The main heater/heaters, and the defrost limit thermostat.

If one heater system, it will be mounted on the bottom of the evaporator coil, behind the rear panel in the freezer section.
If it's a two heater model, there will be one heater on the bottom, and the second half way up.

You will need an ohm meter to test them. They should not exceed 35 ohms. If they read infinity (no resistance) then replace.

The last part is a defrost thermostat. It is a round about an inch in diameter mounted on the top of the coil.
It should read zero ohms resistance, but can only be tested if the machine has been running and the thermostat no warmer than 20 degrees.

If the heater/heaters are bad, replace them but also replace the limit thermostat as a package.
If the limit thermostat is the only bad part, replace it only.

Thank you for using FixYa

Feb 06, 2010 | Hotpoint Refrigerators

1 Answer

Why is my Amana Fridge (Model number SSD522T) not defrosting and fan only works sometimes?


When the refrigerator is running ( cooling mode ) the defrost timer contacts prevents any power from getting to the defrost heater. When the defrost timer turns off the power to the compressor and fan motor(s) the power is then redirected to the defrost system. The defrost timer motor
 
Defrost thermostat:
During a defrost cycle, the defrost heater causes the metal alloy in the switch to warm and as it does it curls back and breaks the circuit. As the metal cools, it makes a closed circuit again. A defective thermostat can prevent the defrost heater from coming on or allow it to overheat which could result in heat damage or fire.
The defrost thermostat is located near the defrost heater and is wired in series. It is usually located at the back of a side by side freezer, behind the freezer back wall of a top freezer or under the floor. It will be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker and the inside rear or bottom panel of the freezer. At room temperature the defrost thermostat is an open circuit ( no continuity ) and when cooled down the defrost thermostat closes the circuit ( has full continuity ) to allow the defrost heater to come on.
 
 
Defrost timers:
The defrost timer is sometimes found behind the front grill of the refrigerator. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the refrigerator or freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the refrigerator near the compressor.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector.
Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. One click and the refrigerator shuts off = defrost mode, second click the compressor and fans come back on = run/cooling mode. 
*Some defrost timers are a constant or continuous run timer, which means when ever the refrigerator is plugged in the defrost timer is powered up and running. Some defrost timers are an accumulative run timer, which means when the refrigerator is off the defrost timer is off and not running, when the refrigerator is running the defrost timer is running. This is also sometimes called a demand defrost. The power for the defrost timer goes through the cold control first on an accumulative defrost system. The timers are often the same but will be wired differently to get the different operations.
 
 
Defrost heater:
Test the heating element for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. Because of the number of different elements we cannot tell what your reading should be, but we can be certain of what it shouldn't be. If the reading is zero or infinity the heating element is definitely bad and should be replaced. Proper power ( careful!! ) to the heating element ( 110-120 volts AC ) and the defrost heater does not come on = bad defrost heater.
 

Jan 06, 2009 | Refrigerators

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