Kenmore Dryer - Ignitor will not fire

Hi,

The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating

Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter


heatman101

here is a partial list of componets that could cause the dryer to not heat
Ignitor
control t-stat
high limit t-stat
gas valve coils
thermal cutoff
thermal fuse
flame sensor
electronic control/or timer depending on your exact model
cycling t-stat
motor

The glowing if the ignitor indicates that the circuitry is good but the flame/radiant sensor is bad and/or one or both of the gas valve solenoid coils are not working. The flame/radiant sensor bypasses one the solenoid coils then when power is applied to the ignition circuit, the first coil opens the first valve, the ignitor glows and the flame/radiant sensor gets heated. It's contacts then opens when heated enough to unbypass the second coil and allow the gas to flow and be ignited.

Make sure the flame/radiant sensor is properly in place and aligned with the ignitor to allow proper heat sensing. You may check the continuity between the sensor's contact terminals as the ignitor glows. At first, the terminals should read close (zero resistance) and then open (infinite resistance) after about 30 seconds or so. If this is not the case, the sensor is not working and must be replaced.

The solenoid coils, one with 2 prongs and the other has 3, sitting on top of the gas valves must be both replaced if the flame/radiant sensor turns out good. But before doing so, make sure to run a test with the dryer completely assembled because sometimes the gas do not ignite when the dryer's cabinet is open. This is to prevent unnecessary replacement of the coils.

Feel free to update us about the result and if you need further advice.

If your dryer is not lighting you should first ck to see if the ignitor is glowing if it is there is a heat sensor looks like a big wire 1/8th inch around that is near the ignitor that senses the heat and then the gas valve kicks on. There should be an access plate to see the glowing ignitor with it all hooked up. If you are set on cking it without hooking it up to the gas put your hand on the gas valve and when the ignitor heats up and the sensor tells the gas valve to turn on you will feel a click. The normal problem is a bad ignitor. If its the glow type its obviouse if its the sparking type you will hear it popping if its working. I believe yours is a glow type. good luck

HOW DID YOU DETERMINED THE IGNITOR WORKS? DID IT GLOWS REALLY RED? IF IT DID, MEANS YOU HAVE GOOD FUSE AND YOU SHOULD CHECK THE RADIANT SENSOR(NEXT TO IGNITOR) AND THE COILS.IF THE IGNITOR DID NOT GLOW AT ALL, THEN YOU HAVE A BROKEN FUSE. IT IS LOCATED IN THE BACK. ABOUT AN INCH LONG AND IT'S NARROW. CHECK FOR CONTINUITY. OPEN MEANS IT'S BAD. OHM READING MEANS GOOD.

[email protected] OR 714-334-1998. I CAN WALK YOU THROUGH PROCESS

if you have already replaced the ignitor and the new one is glowing white hot, not orange, and you have replaced the sensor, then the next logical part to replace would be the gas coils. hope this will help solve the problem.

This problem is caused by faulty gas valve coils. These electrical coils are right above the gas valves and when energized, these solenoids open the gas valves. It is recommended that if any of the gas valve coils are suspected of fault, that they both (all) be changed at once. Hope this helped and best wishes.

When you say "starter" I assume you are talking about the "ignitor" and it is glowing.If the ignitor stays glowing continuously then the radiant heat sensor, normally closed, is not opening OR if the ignitor lights up than turns off after about 10 seconds but no flame, then the coils (doesn't matter which one of the two) are bad. The coils are located on top of the gas valve and the radiant sensor is located on the side of the burner chute....Good Luck
The Squirrel

GAS DRYER, NO HEAT. CHECK THE HEAT SETTING FIRST.
IS IT ON AIR FLUFF? I'M NOT BEING SMART, BUT YOU WOULD BE SURPRISED HOW MANY CALLS I TAKE THAT ARE ON AIR FLUFF. SECOND, LISTEN FOR A DISTINCT CLICK WHEN YOU TURN ON THE DRYER. IF YOU HEAR IT, LOOK IN THE INSPECTION HOLE ON THE FRONT OF THE DRYER, OR REMOVE THE TOE PLATE TO VIEW THE IGNITOR. IF THE IGNITOR GLOWS AND THEN CLICKS OFF BUT NO FLAME, YOU HAVE A BAD SOLENOID ON THE GAS VALVE. IF THE IGNITOR GLOWS, BUT NEVER CLICKS OFF, THE RADIANT SENSOR ATTACHED TO THE SIDE OF THE BURNER ASSEMBLY IS BAD.

IF YOU DON'T HEAR A DISTINCT CLICK WHEN YOU TURN ON THE DRYER, THE MOST LIKELY CAUSE IS THE THERMAL FUSE LOCATED ON THE BACK OF THE DRYER DOWN NEAR THE EXHAUST DUCT. IT IS A SMALL WHITE ITEM ATTACHED TO THE EXHAUST DUCT WITH TWO WIRES ATTACHED.

PUT YOUR DRYER ON AIR FLUFF AND TURN IT ON. THEN SELECT A HEAT SETTING. IF YOU HEAR A DISTINCTIVE CLICK WHEN YOU SELECT HEAT, THEN CHECK FOR A GLOWING IGNITOR. MOST KENMORE/WHIRLPOOL DRYERS HAVE A PEEP HOLE IN THE FRONT LEFT SIDE OF THE DRYER. REMOVE A PLASTIC COVER TO VIEW INSIDE.
IF THE IGNITOR GLOWS, AND THEN CLICKS OFF, YOU HAVE A BAD SOLENOID (COIL SETTING ON TOP OF THE VALVE). IF IT NEVER CLICKS OFF, YOU HAVE A BAD RADIANT SENSOR( LOCATED ON THE SIDE OF THE BURNER HOUSING). IF NO IGNITOR GLOWING, THE IGNITOR IS BAD.

IF WHEN YOU SELECT HEAT, THERE ISN'T ANY CLICK, THEN THE THERMAL FUSE LOCATED BEHIND THE BACK PANEL DOWN NEAR THE EXHAUST IS BAD. IT IS A SMALL WHITE ITEM WITH TWO THIN WIRES ATTACHED TO IT.