Question about Kenmore 5.7 cu. ft. Coin Operated Electric Dryer
Dryer won't come on at all. Checked breaker- not the problem.
Starting in early 2002, the capacity sizes were changed around a little bit. A normal sized washer now all have the same sized tubs (pretty much) in the 110 series (Whirlpool Manufactured) washers. The capacity is now rated somewhat by the agitator action the washer comes with. Depending on the type of agitator you have, will determine the capacity. King size capacity means you have a pretty good capacity (size wise) than others. You have normal capacity, large capacity, super capacity, king capacity, and I even think they have canyon (yes canyon) capacity. Capacity sizes dont really mean to much though. In order for you clothes to get clean, the must have room in the tub to move. The must be able to float up, then get pulled down by agitator action. That should determine the size of what goes in the washer. Always use same type clothing when doing laundry (i.e. towels with towels, sheets with sheets, etc, this will keep the load balanced better). Watch what you load, comforters are ok (per manufactures ok) but I do not tlike the idea unless its a front loader, and only by itself. Let me know if this helps you out any.
Posted on Jun 01, 2008
My dryer is doing the same thing... I wonder if this dryer needs to be recalled.... I did call a dryer technician from sears- 1-80-469-4663, ask customer service for a dryer tech, and she told me to unplug my machine for a minute or two and plug it back in and press cancel 2 times, this resets the computer inside, so I did, and guess what, almost immediately it started flashing CF 01,02,03- the lady said that I have a electronic control board problem and she could set up an appointment to have a tech come and figure it out for me, and she could sell me a warrenty for 2100 bucks.... good job sears! You made great appliances and when they break people are out tons of money!!!!
Keep up the good work!
Posted on Jul 08, 2008
It sounds like your tub bearing is bad or going bad. It could be the adjustment on your spin cycle. Does your unit allow you to adjust this. Also are you overloading. Can you send me the brand and model of your unit and I help you more.
Posted on Oct 05, 2009
this is a frigidaire made dryer with kenmores name on it. The drum bearing needs more grease. You really need to know what your doing before you take that job on yourself. Its easy for me...but I have been doing it for 20 years and thats the way I role
Posted on Nov 12, 2009
Try unplugging it or turning off the power at the breaker panel. This should reset the controls.
Weather this works or not, make sure that the whole dryer vent is clear. often we find a clog in the flexible line, or where the duct exits the house. also there are situations where the clogged duct caused a lint plug inside the dryer. Assuming you can reset the controls, you can run the dryer for a minute with the hose unhooked to see if you are venting the right amount of air.
It is possible the heating element has gone out or one of the thermal disk has blown its fuse. If you turn the dryer on holding the button that is depressed when the door is closed so that the dryer will run you should be able to see if the heating element is getting hot because it should show as a red glow. If this is not happening then most more than likely the heating element has gone out. Most of the time they are fairly easy to replace.
a simple thing is that When the lights are flashing, it is an error code, which indicates a problem with the door switch. Could be a loose connection there.
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Posted on Nov 20, 2009
There is a water pump in the machine which pumps the water out of the outer tub and into the drain, after the wash and rinse cycles.
It is possible that this pump isn't working properly. I think if it weren't working at all, you wouldn't be able to get beyond the wash cycle.
It has been my experience that small articles of clothing may get washed or spun out of the inner tub and into the area around the pump pick up, thus partially blocking the flow to the pump.
It's also possible that the drain hose from the pump to the drain may be partially clogged.
It is also possible that the pump doesn't run sufficiently long to get all of the water out because its' motor gets hot and shuts down or because of a problem in the control mechanism which manages the the starting and run time of the pump.
First, I would unplug the washer from the wall outlet and probe under the inner tub, or possibly remove the tub to see that there is no blockage from clothing.
It's also possible that things left in clothing pockets like paper clips, small plastic items, etc. can get into the pump and lock up the impeller.
If you're sure it isn't blocked you can then run a "short cycle", no load and water only, and watch to see how much water comes out of the discharge hose where it's hung on the drain pipe.
It should gush out, and tub should be free of standing water prior to the start of the first rinse cycle.
If it does not, then you'll have to access the pump and clear it of obstructions or replace it, if defective.
As it drains, it should start spinning slowly, then speed up as it drains; the final portion of the spin cycle is very fast.
Essentially, the spinning tub wrings out the clothes using centrifugal force.
With the water remaining in the bottom of the tub, it would appear that it is:
a) not spinning long enough, or
b) there is something preventing all the water from getting out in the time allotted by the timer to perform this task.
A fair handy man can get to pump either from the rear of the machine with back plate off, or by removing the cabinet cover from the frame, depending on the model of the the machine.
As always - before attempting any repair, UNPLUG THE UNIT!
When clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:
To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.
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Posted on Sep 13, 2010
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