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Beverage-air dw series. How can I check the temp control? The unit freezes everything and it seems like compressor runs all the time. I am pretty certain the refrigerant level is ok.

Fridge freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:

AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.
May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.
u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .

Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?

ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!
THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required

God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.






Oct 05, 2013 | Beverage-Air DW64 Beverage Cooler...


How to Troubleshoot a Clothes Dryer with No Heat

<span>Instructions</span> Things You'll Need: <ul> <li> <span>Volt meter Continuity meter/tester Ohm meter (gas dryers)</span> </li></ul> <ol> For Gas or Electric Dryers <li> 1 Check the setting on the dryer. It's a simple thing, but sometimes people forget that they turned down the dryer for a delicate load.<br /> </li> <li> 2 Check the fuse box. Electric dryers require 240 vaults to run, which means they have a dual breaker switch. If one of the breakers clicks off, the dryer has enough power to run but not enough to produce heat. You may need to replace the fuse to prevent this from happening again.<br /> </li> <li> 3 Check the outlet with a volt meter. As said earlier, electric dryers require 240 vaults to run. If there is not enough power to the outlet, but the fuses are fine, then there is a problem with the wires in your house. You will need to call an electrician.<br /> </li> <li> 4 Check the thermal fuse. Depending on the type of dryer, this fuse will be located either in the front of back of your dryer. It is usually an inch long and mounted in white plastic. Test the fuse using a continuity meter. If the fuse has been blown, replace it.<br /> </li> <li> 5 For electric dryers, locate the heating element on your dryer and test it for continuity using a continuity meter. If it is not working, you will need to replace it.<br /> </li> Gas Dryers Only <li> 1 Check the igniter using an ohm meter. Disconnect the clear plastic connector (called a molex) that attaches the igniter to the burner circuit. Place the probes of the ohm meter on the contacts. It should be below 100 ohms of resistance. If it is above 100 ohms, replace the igniter.<br /> </li> <li> 2 Using an ohm meter, test the continuity between the two contacts on the flame sensor. If there is no continuity, replace the flame sensor.<br /> </li> <li> 3 If none of the above works and you notice that your dryer starts out hot but finishes cold and/or you hear a chattering sound when running the dryer, then your problem is likely with the coils. There is no test for the coils. Your only option is to replace them to determine if this is the cause.<br /> </li></ol>

on Dec 29, 2010 | Dryers

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Instructions hdm350

hola buen d?a me gustar?a tener el manual en castellano del funcionamiento del multimetro hdm350

Sep 16, 2013 | Actron Digital Multimeter Tester

1 Answer

Mr.Steamer Commercial Steambath CU750A temp is to high it is out of control

There are only 3 likely causes. The first and most likely is the room sensor inside the shower. This is a resistive type sensor that communicates the temperature in the room to the controller via ohm ratings. There is an equivalent ohm rating for every degree of temperature it correlates to and that is how the temperature controller knows what temp it is in the room. Often in commercial steam rooms clients tend to spray cold water on the sensor which causes damage and alters the ohm rating to the point where the sensor is relaying incorrect room temps to the controller, causing high or low temperatures. Normally when the room is hot, it causes the alloy metal of the sensor to be hot. When cold water is sprayed on it, it immediately bring down the temp of the alloy and the thermal shock warps the metal causing the resistance values to change. Set your multi-meter to ohms and remove the sensor wires from the back of the controller. You will do your ohm reading on the sensor wires. Check the actual room temperature with a thermometer. At room temp 77 degrees you should be getting 10,000 ohms, at 100 degrees you should get 5827 ohms, and at 120 degrees you should get 3759 ohms. Note as the temp goes up the ohms go down, this should help you determine if your sensor is good. The other possibility is your steam solenoid valve is stuck in the open position. Simply check if there is voltage running to the solenoid. If there is no voltage but the room is filling with steam your solenoid is stuck open and needs to be replaced. The last is the controller, and by process of elimination if the sensor and steam solenoid are good then the controller may be the issue.

Feb 02, 2012 | Mr Steam Mr. Steam Commercial Steambath...

1 Answer

Our electric smokehouse will not heat anymore

Hi hickoxt4076...
Check your electric heating element with an Volt ohm meter and make sure you are getting continuity thru it...if not then replace the element because it is faulty.
Be sure to remove the wires from the unit before checking with the Volt ohm meter
Also be sure to check and make sure you have electricity going to the heating element.
Please take time to rate me

Sep 04, 2011 | Masterbuilt 20070106 Electric Smoker

1 Answer

Fan not turning

Check fan capacitor,disconnect capacitor and measure it with ohm meter,put value on ohm meter ohm x100 or more,measure capacitor
it must show some value but it will be very fast,if there is no value change a capacitor,a new must have same parameters(values) as old
e.g. 80 micro F,220(110,380)V.Note a wire which was on capacitor.
If not capacitor,check fan motor,also with ohm meter,measure all wire for each other,ohm meter must show some value,e.g. 25 ohm.

Jul 02, 2009 | Ruud Matching Split Air Conditioner

1 Answer

The left front radiant heating unit does not heat. All other are working fine

Check the heating unit with an OHM meter.

This is not rocket science. An OHM meter will check for continuity (a break inside the heating unit). Any appliance parts place will have a meter, even Wal-Mart. The meter can be set for AC/DC/ OHM's, Volts, etc.

Set the meter on OHM and touch the two leads on the meter together and the meter arm should move. Now, take the heating unit out of the range and touch one lead to one end of the heating unit and the other lead to the other end. If you get a reading then the unit is good and the switch must be replaced.
No reading, replace the heating unit.

Some parts require knowing how many OHM's but in this case any kind of reading will show there is no break inside the unit (continuity).

You can check extensions cords this way or set it on volts and check batteries. Everyone should have one.

Dec 17, 2008 | GE Profile JSP47 Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

Half way throu my dishwashers cycle it fuses & turns everything in house off

this happens due to the high electric current requirement of the dishwasher and it is not receiving that required current so it try to start but due to lack of required power it shuts off the current in whole house.
get the electric curren line checked out in your house.

and to check the current in your dishwasher check out this instructions
You will most commonly measure two electrical parameters when you're troubleshooting your appliance: resistance (measured on units called "ohms") and voltage. Typically, both of these measurements are made on a single meter called a multi-meter, which you can set to measure either ohms or voltage.
This shows how to measure resistance. Resistance ( or continuity ) is measured in units called "ohms." You'll commonly want to know the resistance of things like bake elements and solenoid coils. For example, a good bake element typically has a resistance of about 30 ohms. If your oven's not baking and you measure the resistance of the bake element and the meter doesn't move, then you know you have a bad element. A simple ohm measurement can save a lot of money and a possible headache :)

Amp meter: Here's a clamp-on amp meter (or amp meter) being used to measure current flow through a wire. This is a common test for determining whether or not a gas oven igniter is good or bad--only way to really know is by measuring its current draw and comparing to rated draw. You'll also want to measure current/amp draw in cases where you have an electric motor that runs for a few minutes then shuts off on it's built in safety to see if the problem is with the motor drawing excessive current.
Volt meter: This picture shows how to measure voltage. A voltage measurement at the outlet should the first thing you do whenever you have an appliance that is completely inoperative...a simple power test is required if your electric dryer is running with no heat to make sure you have both powers at the dryer


Oct 16, 2008 | Dishwashers

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