Question about Amana PTC093B35AE Air Conditioner

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Hi, I've got an AMANA A/C Model PTC153B00CMBM. 220 VAC is OK, the control panel is receiving the 24 VAC but no red light is displayed. The A/C does not power up. Could be the control panel? if so, where can I get a new one? Regards,

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Sea Breeze
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SOURCE: Amana Refrigerator Model ABB2222FEQ Control Panel Cover

Yes, I can help you and send you the service manual also, Thanks, Sea Breeze

Posted on Jun 16, 2009

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SOURCE: The control panel for my Amana oven, model ACS3350AS, turns off mid cycle. How do I know if the panel is fried or it's something else? Is the control panel easy to find and install?

the fitst thing i would do is check the incomig power. make sure you have constant power ad that the range isnt loosing power. if your power is good, then you may have a bad control. go to www.searspartsdirect.com. type in the model and you can view the price for the control

Posted on Nov 27, 2011

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I switched off the power prior to looking at this, i did not wire it. landlord replaced thermostat yesterday after the heating element had already been replaced2xs now, 0 hot. heater model 71-40sb


Is this a 220 VAC H/W Heater or a 120 VAC H/W Heater?
Note: Info provided here is for a 220VAC H/W Heater
Thermostat doesn't look like a new one, maybe it is used!
Check input power (voltage) on top two wires if this is a 220VAC H/W Heater ... then the input power from the C/B in the Electrical Panel should be 220 VAC. If 220 VAC power is not present on the top two wires ... you may have a bad C/B in Electrical panel. Make sure C/B is turned ON and if still no power on top two wires replace C/B. If 220 VAC is present on top two wires then press Red Reset Button very hard to make sure it is Reset. Then check for 220 VAC at the Thermostat ( bottom two terminals), if 220 VAC is present then check for 220 VAC on the Heating Element terminals (bottom of picture). If 220 VAC is present on the terminals of Heating Element then H/W Heater should be working otherwise Heating Element is Bad and replacement is necessary. Good Luck! Handy Henry

Feb 09, 2017 | Element Water Heaters

1 Answer

My daughter has an Amana ARGS7650SS. How do I remove the display panel to get at the control board?


Hello;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician.

Are you sure it is the control board?
This part is no longer available unless you go on Ebay. It will cost you $170.00. The part number is 31944801.

If you elect to replace the part, make sure you ground yourself by touching bare metal. Static electricity will knock out the board.

Ok, There are side panels on the main control panel, these pop off. There is a backing plate that should fall off. There are small screws holding the control board on.

Be careful not to shoot from the hip. Too many people start replacing control boards and other expensive components spending hundreds of dollars, when the problem could be just a simple $12.00 thermal fuse.

You may consider going to Sears Factory Outlet (Scratch and Dent) and save a couple hundred dollars on a unit and receive a one year warrantee as well.

Tell me what is going on and the model number. It may be something simple.



25414743-phnwnny0psxpmylmbgnrqmwm-1-0.jpg

Feb 11, 2015 | Amana Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

No power output or display.green standby light flashes.


Sounds like either a blown mainpower fuse or the thermal fuse for the power transformer. If the protect circuit was kicking in, the display would light up, but then turn off with a red blinking light. the green light with no display means the transformer is not getting power.

Dec 31, 2013 | Denon Avr-1610: 5.1 Ch A/V Home Theater...

1 Answer

I have a Fisher&Paykal DD6031 drawer dishwasher. Stopped running mid cycle. Lights flashing on drawer front green,red,yellow,red green,red,yellow . I don't know what that code means. On the inside Heavy...


follow this steps and fix it. GOD BLESS YOU

Heating Element

If lights are flashing on the control panel, the heating element might have burned out. The heating element heats the water up to operating temperature. After a set amount of time if the temperature isn't reached a light on the control panel might start flashing. The heating element can be checked for continuity with an Ohm meter.


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Heating Element Assembly

If lights are flashing on the control panel, the heating element assembly might have burned out. The heating element assembly heats the water up to operating temperature. After a set amount of time if the temperature isn't reached a light on the control panel might start flashing. The heating element assembly can be checked for continuity with an Ohm meter.


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Help me find my model number


Check Fault Codes

If the display lights are flashing and there is an error code in the display window, check the wiring diagram and tech sheet in the dishwasher that will provide information on the fault.


Drain Pump

If lights are flashing on the control panel, the drain pump might not be working properly. For two-wire drain pump motors check them for continuity using an Ohm meter. If it's defective You'll need to replace it. Drain pumps are not repairable.


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Touchpad and Control Panel

If the lights are flashing on the display the entire touchpad and control panel assembly might be defective. If the display works but the dishwasher functions are all out of synch, or some of the buttons don't respond properly the entire touchpad and control panel might need to be replaced.


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Touchpad

If the display lights are flickering for no reason, the touchpad might need to be replaced. Sometimes when the touchpad is defective the display lights are flashing randomly.

Jul 30, 2013 | Fisher and Paykel 24 in. DD603H W Built-in...

1 Answer

Kuds02frss01 blinking normal light


The electronic control board is the part you should have replaced. it is not the control panel with buttons you push that were malfunctioning, but the computer that receives the input from them. If you replaced a part starting with 857 ending in four other numbers like 857xxxx, you need the part number 8559824 or W10084141 instead. hope this helps.

Aug 26, 2012 | KitchenAid 24 in. KUDS02FRSS Stainless...

1 Answer

Amana nfw7200tw


hi, it sound like the fuse on the circuit board could have blown. i take it you've checked the fuse in the plug.

regards
shaun

Oct 28, 2011 | Amana NFW7300WW Washer

1 Answer

Kitchenaid KESC307HBT4: Oven burners not working. All three failed together. Checked relay in drawer compartment and have 120 vac to the coil when "Bake/Start" is pushed, relay activates and...


On the control: Check voltage Connector J1-3 (Black wire to # 3) to any L2 red wire you should get 220 v . If not the bi-metal thermostat is probably open. If voltage is ok check with oven on bake between P 11 Red wire to L2 red (at main connection) should read 220 volts. If not the timer is bad if so check DLB relay . Take 1 wire off switch side of relay, activate bake. Coil side should read 120 v switch should read 0 ohms.Relay ok . Check between the wire you took off and the other wire you left on and the reading should be 220 v.

Nov 17, 2010 | KitchenAid KESC307 Electric Kitchen Range

1 Answer

My 4yr old Amana heat pump quit working - the thermostat display was blank. I replaced the thermostat but still no luck after confirming it was installed correctly. My S/N is 0407477962, Model VNC60C2A,...


Your thermostat can get power from either of two power souces. Primary power would be 24 VAC from a transformer mounted inside your air handler. Second (optional) power may be provided from battery backup, with the batteries mounted inside the thermostat itself.

Since your display went completely blank, then I would venture to guess that it is related to the 24 VAC circuit, sourced from the air handler. You probably do not have battery back up. Use a DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter) to measure the RED wire connected to your thermostat. Make sure to use the VAC setting on the DVOM.

The "hot" side is the red wire, and will be connected to the "R" terminal in your thermostat. The Common side will be connected to most likely a blue, a black, or a brown wire. The Common terminal will be labeled "C" (but perhaps B) on your thermostat.

Since the thermostat is just plain dead you should next locate and check the fuse or breaker for the air handler control circuitry. There may be multiple different breakers/fuses for your heat pump's outdoor circuitry, its indoor controls, and its indoor resistive heat strips. Also, the circuit could be either 120 VAC or 240 VAC. Has one of them tripped or blown a fuse?

If you have breakers, then flip all of your breakers off and then back on. Stay near the breaker box and wait for a minute, listening/looking to see if any breaker has tripped or if a fuse has blown. Otherwise, if the circuit is fused, then examine or test the fuse. Again, use your DVOM, this time in the Ohms setting. Zero Ohms indicate the fuse is good. A very high Ohms reading is a blown fuse (infinite resistance) In this case, verify that the blown fuse is the CORRECT value. Maybe it isn't. Replace it with the correct amperage fuse. Again, wait a few moments and see if it the new fuse blows.

If either the new fuse immediately blows, or if the flipped breaker immediately trips, then STOP and call a professional. You have a high-power wiring problem. Call around, and find an expert. It could be that a mouse chewed thru some insullation. You don't know, but don't be sold on replacing an expensive component without verifiable proof of the source of the problem.

Otherwise, go back and check your 24 VAC "R" Red terminal at the thermostat. If it reads 24VAC hot now, then you have solved the problem, at least temporarily. You now need to know why the breaker tripped or the fuse blew.

If the circuit is on a breaker, then just replace it. They really do go bad after a while. Pop the old breaker out and bring it with you to the hardware store. Replace it with the correct brand, amperage, and configuration.

If the circuit was on a fuse, then (a) was it really the correct amperage rating? or (b) is there a chance that you had a hit from the power company or a nearby lightening strike? (probably not, or some of your computer/stereo/other stuff would have been knocked out too.)

Otherwise, you know the source circuits are good, and you know you don't have 24VAC at the "R" terminal of your thermostat. There are now more possibile causes.... to be continued. Marty

Dec 09, 2009 | Amana PTH123B25AJ Heat Pump Air...

2 Answers

Help required for dumbo on Amps Denon AVR 2808CI


Your unit was probably damaged in shipping. Denon is a nice unit! Do you hear any clicks when you hit the power button??? You should hear two relay clicks. You should hear the power relay click at power on and 3 to 5 seconds later you should hear the speaker protection relay click if your audio amp section is ok. If you hear both relays click then your display circuit is at fault. Open the unit and look for breaks on the front pcb (behind the display) and on the main board in the power section ( where the fuses are ).
Good Luck!

barneyluc

Oct 10, 2008 | Denon AVR 2808Ci Receiver

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