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Hooking up a digital thermostat, without instruction manual. o/b wire for heat pump, where do they go on sub base to thermostat, TH5110D10060807.

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Make sure the NEW thermostat is for Heat Pump.. Now look at the sub-base.. The sub base will have a O/B terminal to connect the orange or blue wire to. Be sure to look back at the old thermostat to verify which wires landed on the O/B previously.. Let me know ig you have any more questions

Posted on Sep 05, 2010

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What are color of wires that goes to the temperature line switch that controls the defrost cycle?


PDF]4HP13/14 SPLIT SYSTEM HEAT PUMP - Armstrong Air

www.armstrongair.com/_/.../Armstrong_4HP13L_Install_506318-01.pdf
4HP13/14 SPLIT SYSTEM HEAT PUMP .... indoor unit, outdoor unit contains system refrigerant charge for operation ... may be installed with up to 50 feet of line set (no more than ..... The defrost control incorporates 2 pressure switch .... Note: Sensor resistance decreases as sensed temperature increases. Pins/Wire. Color.Missing: tempstar

[PDF]RESIDENTIAL SPLIT HEAT PUMP SYSTEMS

icpindexing.toddsit.com/documents/086477/42808100101.pdf
This Manual Supports Split Heat Pump Units of The Above Series .... two groups is based on a difference in Defrost controls and/or the .... completes a circuit between µRµ ? µOµ in the the thermostat sub-base. 2. .... before connecting line voltage. ...Wire "S1" is the first stage of electric heat through the outdoor thermostat.

[PDF]Trane Installer's Guide Air Conditioner/Heat Pump 4TTZ0 ...


Jan 18, 2016 | Heating & Cooling

Tip

Buying the right Thermostat for your Heating/Cooling system


When you feel the need to change you're room thermostat, keep in mind the one that you are changing out, and the type of system you are controlling, such as a Heat Pump split system, or package Heat Pump, a gas fired furnace with a central air conditioning which can also be split or a package unit on the roof or ground, heat or cooling only. For a Heat Pump, you will need a H.P. T-stat as there are up to 8 control wires for these units, to control emergency heat, aux. heat, reversing valve ect. Gas/Electric require only 4 wires, but normally a contractor will pull 5 conductors, one for a spare. On gas/elect. units, the terminals you will see on the new Thermostat will be RH, RC.1st of all, this stands for Red heating, and Red cooling. There will be a jumper wire connecting the 2. The reason for this, is the system you have most always will have only one transformer, to control both heat and cool. If you had a 2 transformer system, you would not need the jumper and you would have 2 hot wires, one for heat and one for cool. They only make these 2 transformer systems for commercial units now, so no worries. Next you will have a white wire.This is for you're heater. There will be a W terminal to connect to. Next, a Green wire, this is for the fan operation, a G terminal. Last you will have a Yellow wire which is for the cooling. Marked Y on the thermostat. In rare cases, they will use the blue wire for cooling. If this is the case, hook the blue to the Y terminal. Now you are ready to program the time and temperature's. Now, if you find you have only 2 wires to work with, red and white, you would more then likely have a heater only. No worries, just terminate the red to RH and white to W. If you happen to have a third wire such as green or blue, this will go to the G terminal for the fan. This goes for a cooling only unit.Red to RC, and white to Y. When using only heat or cooling alone, remove the jumper wire only under this condition. Remember, RH is for heat only, and RC for cool only. You're red 24volt hot wire will terminate there. Now, on a Heat- Pump system, pull off the face plate 1st. The thermostat connects to the sub-base behind it with several small screws. Remove it to expose all wiring and terminals. Due to the fact that most all heat pumps terminate differently, it is VERY IMPORTANT to mark each wire to the correct terminals as 0 to 0, or 0 to B, Y to W-1 ect. Make you make a drawing that you can understand, and mark each wire to what terminal it connects to. Heat-Pumps have several different terminations you must follow, and if possible, buy the stat before you remove the sub-base. Just take the name and any part numbers you may find with you, also you're diagram noting terminals. This way you will no for sure it will be correct. Please don't let this scare or confuse you, I just want to point out that Heat-Pumps have many terminations and you must follow instructions. This should have been noted 1st, but even though us contractors in this field change a thermostat without turning off the power, be sure you turn it off. If not, you may get a light tingle, but you can short out the new stat.Please make a copy of this to keep on hand, and I sincerely hope this has given you some insight on wiring up thermostats.Also, keep the manual that comes with the stat for programming and instructions for different terminations. Best of Luck to all and Sincerely,
Shastalaker7

on Dec 04, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Heat pump works but not ac with honeywell rth7600


Was there an Rc and and Rh terminal on the thermostat sub-base??? If so, there must be jumper across the two for the cooling portion of the circuit to be energized.

Mar 19, 2015 | Honeywell RTH7600D 7-Day Programmable...

1 Answer

Furnace keeps blowing fuse on the board that hosts low voltage wiring.. thats only when stat is operable. when stat is without batteries the fuse doesnt blow. furnace will try and run when i connect t


You may have multiple issues concerning the heat cycle, but the first that has to be resolved is the blowing fuse. The control circuit fuse blowing indicates a short somewhere in the low voltage wiring. IF the thermostat is newly installed, I would suggest first double checking ALL the low voltage wiring to make sure ALL the wires are connected correctly and to make sure the wire connected to the R terminal is not shorted to metal somewhere. If there is a C terminal, make sure R and C are not slightly bared and touching together.

Go to the furnace and note the location of the wires on the terminal strip. Remove them and install a TEMPORARY jumper across R and W. If the furnace comes on and begins the heat cycle without blowing the fuse, the problem is within the wiring or thermostat for sure. Remove the jumper and reinstall the wires. Go to the thermostat.

Remove the thermostat then take all the wires off of the sub base, taking note as to which wire went on which terminal. Take the R wire and the W wire and twist them together. The heater should come on indicating the problem is within the thermostat. Put the batteries in with a new fuse. If it blows, the sub base is the problem. If it doesn't blow, install the wire that goes to the R terminal. Check the fuse. Put the W wire on. Check the fuse. Put the G wire on. Check the fuse. Leave the thermostat on the chair, then turn the sub base 'fan on-auto' switch. Check the fuse. If its not blown by the time these three wires are installed, you inadvertently removed the 'short' by moving the wires around during this test. The remaining wires can be installed and the thermostat placed back on the sub base.

If you completed the above list and the fuse no longer blows and your furnace still only clicks, you obviously still have issues within the furnace of a mechanical nature. The clicking is the relays on the board initiating the combustion fan relay and attempting to initiate the pre-purge cycle. If the combustion fan hums and does not start, the fan could either be blocked (by a dead bird) or is mechanically shot and requires replacement. This fan HAS to start before the ignition process can begin. Solve that issue first after the blowing fuse issue is resolved. Its kinda rare that a system has so many issues at the same time. Usually when this is the case, someone replaced the thermostat and created that issue trying to resolve the underlying issue and the original cause for no heat.

This is NOT the professional way to troubleshoot it, but you are limited in your task without the proper analog or digital multimeter.

If you are unsure of your ability to systematically go through this process, abandon the idea and call a qualified service tech to bail you out.

Dec 31, 2014 | Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

Need help understanding how to wire a new programmeable thermostat. I currently have a White Rodgers 1F73 model (non-programmeable) connected. I am confused with the instructions on how to connect the...


the black wire is your common wire, you need to program your thermostat, in the advance mode, to tell the t-stat if your heat pump reversing valve is energized on cooling or heating, is the orange wire connected to your t-stat.= w2/o/b

Dec 20, 2014 | Honeywell Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

How to take a honeywell radiator off the wall


Turn off the circuit breaker to the AC and heating unit. The circuit breaker is inside the home electrical box. The door of your electrical box has a guide indicating which circuit breaker controls the cooling and heating system.Pull the cover off the Honeywell manual thermostat. If necessary, use a flat-head screwdriver to pry the cover away from the base of the thermostat. Locate the two small screws securing the sub-base to the base of the thermostat. The sub-base is the portion of the thermostat that has the indicator dial or indicator lever. Remove the screws with a Phillips-head screwdriver, and pull the sub-base away from the thermostat.Remove the screws securing the base of the thermostat to the wall with the Phillips-head screwdriver. Pull the thermostat base away from the wall so you can access the wires.Loosen the terminal screws securing the wires to the back of the thermostat with the flat-head screwdriver. Wrap the wires around a pencil or a large screw. This will prevent the wires from accidentally falling inside the wall cavity.

Jun 12, 2011 | Honeywell Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

I had to take my thermostat off the wall and i dont have the manual to put it back on .


typical wiring for thermostats: white to W, red to R, green to G, yellow to Y. If it is a heat pump, orange to O/B. blue to C. However, not all stats have a common.

Oct 04, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

Thermostat Wiring: W2? E? Where to connect?


You have a heat pump. You need a thermostat for "Heat pump with Electric back-up heat". Make sure the 'stat has either an "aux" (auxilliary heat) or an "E"(Emergency heat) terminal. The wiring instructions will be provided with the thermostat.

Dec 15, 2008 | Honeywell Electronic Programmable...

2 Answers

MY HEAT PUMP SYSTEM WILL NOT WORK IN EMERGENCY MODE


the thermostat sub base has a place to connect a wire usually white to energize the heat strips when you push the stat way hotter than the house temp. that is why the strips come on in normal heat. it also has a terminal that is only energized in emergency heat and it also should have a wire connected to it so that terminal can supply power to the strips when the stat is switched into emerg heat . you can identify the terminal from the wiring diagram and if need be jumper w2 wire over to the aux terminal and it will work. they both go back into the airhandler and power the same strips. w2..................................................................................................w2 in airhandler to strips or w2...jumper to aux......................................................................................................................w2 in airhandler to strips.

Nov 10, 2008 | Amana PTH123B25AJ Heat Pump Air...

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