Question about Pass & Seymour #TM818WCC6 15A White Switch/Outlet

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I have a 1595-SWTTRWCC4 switch. None of the wiring diagrams show the two black wires coming from the switch. I am using the switch to turn on a light above the sink and use the outlet for counter top appliances. Which wiring diagram should I use and what do I do with the two black wires that are attached to the switch?

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If the wires are coming out of the switch portion & not the outlet, 1 goes to power the other goes to that color wire that goes to your light. All you are doing with a switch is cutting one side of your power, putting switch in completes the circuit when it is turned on. Or breaks the circuit when it is turned off. The other wires, power in & back to light get wire nutted together.

Posted on Sep 04, 2010

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To make things clearer.. i took this advice as best as i could understand it, but i will say this.
out of the two black wires coming out of the top of the switch, one will go to your black power wire, one will go in your HOT terminal. the black power wire will be attached only to one of those two wires coming out, i don't think it matters which one. this will cause the switch to operate whatever is powering those wires. the outlet part on the bottom will be powered by a separate set of wires .. the black goes to HOT the other wire goes on the other side. Hope this helps

Posted on Jun 02, 2013


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Problem is not 100% clear. Add a comment and include more information.

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Apr 20, 2011 | Pass & Seymour / Legrand 1595-2SWT...

1 Answer

Wiring comination 2 switch, with exisiting light to new bath fan

Hello anonymous,

I am concerned in so many ways... (USA NEC assumed):
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Do it right... Be safe.


Carnac the Magnificent

Apr 30, 2017 | Pass & Seymour / Legrand 1595-2SWT...

1 Answer

Wiring comination 2 switch, with exisiting light to new bath fan

Please note that there are many ways to wire this device.
In general, this is how the Pass and Seymour Legrand 1595-2SWT device is usually wired:
There are 3 wires permanently attached to the device, black, red, and yellow. These wires are for switching _only_ and are in no way connected to the GFCI receptacle at the factory. The black is "common", which means that this is the wire that is connected to the incoming HOT (black) wire _from_ the circuit breaker (or source). When making this connection add an approx. 6 inch black pigtail to it. (more on this later.)

The red is connected to the black wire (switch leg) that goes to, pick one, let's say the existing lights. The yellow is then connected to the black wire (switch leg) that goes to the new exhaust fan.

The incoming white (neutral) wire that is in the same cable as the incoming HOT wire is connected to BOTH the white wire that goes to the existing light and the white wire that goes to the new exhaust fan. Again, when making this connection, add a 6 inch white pigtail to it.

The switches will now work.

Do you now see that to power up the GFCI receptacle all one needs to do is connect the (see above) 6 inch black pigtailed wire to the "HOT" (LINE) screw terminal and the 6 inch white pigtailed wire to the "WHITE" (LINE) screw terminal?

In this case the lower LOAD screw terminals on the device are _not_ used.

Mar 29, 2010 | Pass & Seymour / Legrand 1595-2SWT...

1 Answer

I need a wiring diagram for a double switch

The following applies to the Pass and Seymour Legrand 1595-2SWT combination two switches with GFCI receptacle device ONLY.

Sorry for the long post, but the manufacturer's wiring diagram for that device is very difficult to follow and I want to make sure that you understand what's what. A basic description of how the device works may help.

At the top of the switch is where one connects the incoming ( HOT circuit from the circuit breaker or source) (LINE) wires. The black is connected to the HOT terminal and the white is connected to the WHITE terminal. That powers up the GFCI receptacle.

On the bottom of the switch there are two (LOAD) terminals (HOT and WHITE). This is where one connects _any_and _all_ loads which are to be GFCI protected, including any downstream receptacle outlets that one may want to GFCI protect.

The thing to understand about GFCI's is that BOTH the hot and the "neutral" white wires for the load(s) _must_ be connected to the LOAD connection on the GFCI in order for it to function correctly. Think two wires IN from the (LINE), two wires out to the (LOAD).

Also, at the bottom of the switch should be 3 wires which are permanently attached to the device, black, red, and yellow. These wires are _not_ connected internally to anything related to the GFCI. The black wire is common and the red and yellow wires are the switch legs (pick one). In other words, individually, these wires function just like a regular switch. If one supplies 120 volts to the black (common) wire, when one switch is turned ON one or the other red or yellow wires (pick one, let's say the red wire) will be energized. When the other switch is turned ON the yellow wire will be energized. Understand that if the black (common) wire is not supplied with 120 volts you will _never_ power the red and/or yellow switch leg wires.

For equipment grounding, of course, the bare (or green) equipment grounding wires are all twisted together with 2 pigtails using a red or gray wire nut; one pigtail goes to the green screw on the switch and the other pigtail goes to the green screw on a metal box (if you have a metal box). There are other ways to do this, but that's the general idea.

OK, after all that, we're ready to wire the 1595-2SWT. Understand that there are many scenarios for wiring that device. I will describe the most common one.

The following assumes that you have only ONE circuit supplying 120 volts to the box. It also assumes that you have separate cables going to each switched load and that these loads are _NOT_ connected to any power source other than the one supplied by the switch itself. It's OK to have a 3-wire cable with ground (black, red, white, and bare) going to the loads. Additionally at this time we will also assume that there are no downstream receptacle(s).

After making all the equipment grounding connections;

LINE connections:
Connect the white wire from the incoming (LINE)120 volt cable from the breaker or source to the the white (LINE) terminal at the top of the switch. Connect the black wire from the incoming (LINE) (HOT) 120 volt cable to the HOT terminal at the top of the switch. You should now see that the wiring for GFCI receptacle outlet itself is accomplished.

LOAD connections:
The two white neutral wires in the box that are in the two outgoing cables that go to the loads are twisted together with a pigtail that is connected to the (LOAD) WHITE terminal at the bottom of the device. OPTIONALLY, if you have a 3-wire cable with ground (black, red, white, and bare), just connect the white wire to the (LOAD) White terminal at the bottom of the switch.

Here's where it gets tricky. Connect the black (common) wire that is permanently attached to the device to the (LOAD) HOT terminal at the bottom of the switch.

Do you see now that any loads connected to either the red or yellow wires will be switched _and_ GFCI protected? If not, please STOP what you are doing and post back here, or called a qualified electrician.

You may then connect the red wire to one of the switch legs and the yellow wire to the other switch leg.

Do you now also see that you can easily add a downstream receptacle to the deal by simply bringing a cable into the box from that downstream receptacle and connect it to the load side of the GFCI?

I hope this helps. BE SAFE and don't forget to turn OFF the circuit and test it to make sure it is OFF.

Feb 27, 2010 | Pass & Seymour / Legrand 1595-2SWT...

1 Answer

I wana put 04 harley hand controls on a 89 harley need wiring diagram

I think the wire colors changed sometime after 2000. If you still have the old controls, you may can make up your own wiring diagram. While you've got the switch housings open to put them on the handlebars, write down what color wires come off of what switch. Do the same with your old switches and your new switchs. If your horn button uses a red and a black wire on your old controls, and your new switch uses a red/white and black wire, then draw your diagram to match the red/white wire where the red wire went.

You're going to have to do a certain amount of this as you will not find a wiring diagram that shows an 89 model bike with 2004 handle bar wiring on it. Good Luck!

Jan 26, 2010 | 2004 Harley Davidson FLSTC - FLSTCI...

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