Question about Sony STR-D565 Receiver

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My right side speaker is on but very weak. I've troubleshooted and it isn't the speaker or speaker wire. What is wrong with my amplifier?

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Most likely there is a problem in the amplifier or filter stages, and this will take some troubleshooting to find and fix. You might take it into a repair facility and see what they would charge to fix it. The minimum of tools needed to troubleshoot the unit is an oscilloscope, signal generator, and schematic. Usually the problem ends up being power transistors, but it can be many other things.
Wish I had better news. Good luck, thanks for using FixYa, and hope this helps.

Posted on Sep 04, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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blem: I get noise on my car audio system that disappears when I turn the car off.
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Suggested Solution
Alternator or ignition noise is being picked up through the power connection. Install a 12-volt noise filter between the power tap and the power input on your car audio. Back to the Troubleshooting Index Problem: The sound distorts at high volume when I play the radio in my car audio system.
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The radio wattage is too low to drive the speakers. Use a car amplifier to increase the radio's power. Replace the speakers with ones which match the radio's output. Back to the Troubleshooting Index Problem: My car radio only get one station.
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The wires to different speakers have been combined rather than run separately. Make sure that each of the speakers has 2 wires run to it. Combining speaker wires will cause this problem. Back to the Troubleshooting Index Problem: I lose my station memories in my car radio when I turn off the vehicle.
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It is overheating due to power issues. Check your power ratings to be sure they match the amplifier's specifications. There is a problem with the amplifier. If the power ratings are correct, the amplifier needs to be sent to a service center. Back to the Troubleshooting Index Problem: When using two amplifiers, I lose the right channel on one amp.
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There is a problem in the sound system or wiring. Try swapping amplifiers or bypassing that amp. If the problem persists on the right channel on both amps, check the wiring and sound system. There is a problem with the amplifier. Replace the amplifier that displays the problem or send it to a service center .

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Run the 12v power wire (usually the longest wire in the kit, mostly red, typically ranges from 8 gauge to 0 gauge) from the battery through the firewall and then to the amp. You can find a hole somewhere in the bottom right of the firewall. Don't connect the power wire to the battery or the amp just yet. Find a solid metal ground somewhere near the amplifier. You'll need to stay within 2-3 feet of the amplifier to maintain the best ground connection. A way you can do this is pull up the carpet and scrape the metal until it is bare metal with no paint left on it. If the amplifier is to be mounted in the trunk, many times bolts from the suspension can be found directly above one of the rear wheels. These suspension components usually bolt directly to the frame, making them an ideal grounding point.
Pull the aftermarket CD player out of the dash. There is a blue wire with a white stripe hanging out of the back of the deck known as the remote wire. The remote wire is a simple 12v signal that the cd player outputs to tell the amplifier to turn on. Take your remote wire that came in your amp kit and splice/solder it onto that blue-whitestriped wire and run it through the dash and then along the door jam. While you have the CD player removed, plug the RCA white and red plugs into the back of the deck where it says "Subwoofer Output." If your cd player does not have a "Subwoofer Output", or if you are using a stock cd player, you will need a device called an inline converter. It's a small box that has 4 input wires and the 2 necessary RCA output that will run to the amplifier. It takes the high level speaker voltage and drops it to a low level signal the amplifier can process. The 4 input wires can be connected to the rear speakers (+ and - for left and right)
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Put a fuse into 12v wire in the engine bay no more than 0.5m away from battery. If your amp kit came with an "inline fuse holder", you'll want to find a nice location to mount it in your engine bay. Once it's secure, cut a length of the power wire to reach the fuse, and connect it to one side of the fuse holder. The other side (the side you just cut) is stripped and connected to the other side of the fuse holder.
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If the only problem is the tweeter, and the woofer is still working, you do not have a problem in the amplifier. The problem is the speaker. The tweeter is blown or you have a problem in the cross over network in the speaker.

You can always switch the speakers and connect them to the opposite channel. You can do this very easy at the back of the receiver where the speaker wires are at. Put the left speaker wires on the right speaker and the right speaker wires on the left speaker. If the same speaker still has no tweeter you know that the speaker is the problem.

The only way this could be a problem in the amplifier is if you have two different sets of inputs for each speaker, one being the low end for the woofer and the other being the high end for the mid range and tweeter. That would mean you have two sets of speaker wires going to each speaker. Each set of speaker wires would have a positive wire and a negative wire for a total of 4 wires going to each speaker. I don't remember this system being set up that way, but I could be wrong.

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