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Electrolux EW1000i Front Load Washer

Belt slips off

posted by Curragh on May 11, 2008


My Electrolux front loader stops a few seconds after starting as the belt flies off.  I put it back on but no use.  It seems tight enough but I can't see any adjustment on the motor.

Comment by Curragh, posted on May 13, 2008

Thanks very much for reply to my question in this most informative way.  My model is an Electrolux 1006 F not i but I'm sure things are the same.  

Is there an adjustment I can make on the motor of this machine like in a car alternator???  Is there a way of checking if the motor is running and is it fused.  I put the belt back on and now it is not running at all it seems.  I appreciate your help.  Curragh
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Best Solution
posted on May 13, 2008
Helpful (85)

Guest

Guest

Rank:Apprentice Apprentice
Rating: 0%, 0 votes
This is great thanks Oz (wizard of?) and I have done T.V. repair years ago when you could repair the darn things. I'll get on to this sequence you recommended, as soon as possible and will of course keep you informed. I really appreciate your taking time out to flow through my problem and it is delightful to hear form you. Thanks again. Curragh

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Solution #2
posted on May 11, 2008
Thanks for Trying (70)

MATRIX_MMX


Rank:Guru Guru
Rating: 88%, 45 votes
Dear Curragh

Now as these belts are under tension (very similar to the timing belt of a motor vehicle) it is advisable to replace them from time to time, and especially (in your case) where the belt has come off of its sproket.

Now my solution would be to unbolt the motor from the chassis mount, and fit the belt around the drum sproket, once you have done this, you then locate the motor to its mounting point, and then run the belt onto the motor sproket.

Always ensure that all bolts are tightened to the correct torque, and that nothing is loose or "flaps about". May also be beneficial to check your floor to make sure it is not uneven, as any uneven ground will cause the front loader to vibrate under operarative load. This in turn can make nuts and bolts work their way loose, then the belt looses tension and elasticity.

the belt should be as tight to leave no more than 2/3 of an inch travel on it (meaning you can only push down on it, or move it in any direction by 2/3 of an inch, other than its intended directional function).

I wish you all the luck on this, and hope that this is the fixya for you, please let me know how you get on.

Best wishes, kind regards and,

yours sincerely

Oz


Comment by MATRIX_MMX, posted on May 13, 2008

Now as far as I know, The motor may have an belt tensioner point on it, and this (if it is the case) will likely consist of a screw headed bolt that can be turned in order to tighten or loosen.

Now to answer the second question, if your motor is fused itself, it is probably best to look on the side of the motor housing for the fuse, or it will be inside the motor casing, and if this proves to be the case then the motor unit may require disassembly.

Now in order for me to deal with this more effectively, I am going to start looking at service sheets and reports for your make and model of washing machine, and I will have to see where we go frm there.

Now ofr your next question (is there a way to see/ check if the motor is running?) The answer is yes For a start you will hear it, if the belt is not attached, you still should get a whining noise, but if the drum needs to be turned in order to work with the timer function of the washing machine, then this could be the reason to why your motor is not spinning.

The other option is to completely remove the motor from the washing machine and attach it to a 12V DC. battery, now it should not really matter about polarity (whether or not you have connected the live and neutral wires the right way round or not) as to reverse the direction of a typical motor, all you do is reverse the polarity.

Now if you are brave, or you have knowledge of electronics, you can use a multimeter to read the voltage settings of the motor when the unit is meant to be switched on and apparently working, but be careful as you are likely and almost guaranteed to encounter dangerous levels of electrical voltage (220-240V AC in the UK) and (110V within the USA). So if you are not sure, it is best to take the motor and seek help from an electronic engineer.

Now if your machine is not working at all, I wqould start by looking at the plug (fuse and cable) and work your way back to the PCB inside the machine. Any fault should soon be apparent, as there is little in the way of working components inside of a washing machine (electronic components) in comparison to that of a television set for example.

I wish you all of the best of luck on this and I look forward to hearing from you soon
Kndest regards and best wishes

Yours sincerely

Oz


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