First, let me thank you for the excellent pictures and written instructions for disassembly of the 7130 unit. They made it very easy to disassemble and reassemble the unit.
I took the unit all apart, including disassembly of the entire service station, cleaned all of the service station parts of residual ink, and reassembled the unit completely per your instructions. I did not have a 'dead' motor, so I did nothing with it except remove it so I could wash out the ink residue from the station compartments without getting water into the motor on on its attached circuit board.
I reassembled the printer, but the rat-a-tat-tat noise is still there and the printer reacts as it did before taking it apart. The sound seems to be coming from the lower right side of the printer (the service station area as you look at the front panel). The noise is representative of a plastic gear rotating against another plastic gear that is stuck and the noise is quite loud. I did not see any gear teeth wear when I took all of them out for cleaning. I also now notice a sound (represents a very short squeak) that sounds like an RF signal, likely from either the motor, one of the circuit boards, or some other electronic component. I heard this sound before I took the printer apart, but only since this problem loud noise began a few days ago; I did not hear this sound before this problem started.
My theory is that there is a sensor or circuit board component failure that does not allow a positioning sensor to work properly; either on the long skinney board attached to the service station itself or the rotational sensor attached to the back of the motor, consequently the print head wiping / sealing positioning motor runs through the 'stop' command position, thus causing the gears to clash creating the machine gun noise.
If you have any experiences or thoughts about my theory or what might be the cause and how to correct it, I would appreciate your input.
Please feel free to call me or give me your phone number so I can call you so we can converse about this; a much quicker way to talk through the problem / test solutions than E-mail.
By the way, I am the GUEST or second person with the LOUD NOISE problem you responded to on FIXYA.COM
By the way, how do you sync the carriage to the printers operational sequence?
a 6ya Technician can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Technician (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
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Gene, There are a couple of "hidden" attachment points which hold down the top bezel and glass. You can see step-by-step photos on disassembly of the scan bed that will show right where they are at http://www.fatrcat.com/hp7100/scan_head.html
The DM board is located in the sheilded box to the left side of the unit looking from the rear. You have to disassemble most of the unit to get to it. I have a tip at http://www.fixya.com/support/r7065906-mitsubishi_turn_flashing_power_timer which explains the problem and where to get a board repair kit to repair the unit. The same company has excellent installation instructions.
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Hello WERTZ535.So you want to “get under the hood” of your mixer, so to speak – Great!Before you get started, it would be helpful to have the Parts List manual on hand.If you're lacking one, you can download a PDF version from the KA website at: http://www.kitchenaid.com/flash.cmd?/#/page/home. Click on Customer Care>Locate Manuals & Guides>Enter the 6 character model number, in your case use K45SSW, and select the first file K45SSWH0.pdf(341.41 KB) listed under Parts List (1) and then check to verify this matches your mixer model. Turn to pages 4 & 5, titled: “Case Gearing And Planetary Unit” which shows you an exploded view of all the mechanical parts and assemblies for your mixer. If you find that you need repair parts, here are five potential online vendors in no particular order: RepairClinic.com; mendingshed.com; searspartsdirect.com; partstore.com; and Grainger.com (for grease).You should search for ‘food grade grease’ online (although I’ve seen automotive bearing grease used too – your call). Prices can vary widely between vendors, so do some comparison shopping. Also, here are links to three excellent websites that detail the disassembling/reassembly of a KA Mixer.
Between these three websites and their excellent pictures and descriptions and your Parts List manual, you should now be able to completely disassemble, troubleshoot, determine appropriate repair parts and reassemble your mixer to get it working again.Good luck. I hope this helps. Howard, Burke, VA If this solution has helped you, please rate it, thanks! - hslincoln
That would be your encoder strip. It does thread through the carriage, attaching on the left to a spring metal tab, and on the right hooking onto a rigid metal mast. You can probably get a fair idea of the connecting points by visiting http://www.fatrcat.com/7100ss.html Scroll down through the instructions to find the right area, and I can be contacted if you need more help.
Filka, You are most likely beginning to experience issues with service station function usually created by the buildup of ink which becomes gelled and gooey, resulting in sticking parts. Two primary points of trouble can be involved; one very easy to see and reach- the other requires a fair amount of disassembly but once inside the job is not hard.
First, right on the edge of the service station (the black box beneath the carriage when it's parked on the right) you will see a narrow white wedge-shaped piece. This is a retracting "wiper" which is supposed to slide forward when the carriage is parked, and to the back when the carriage is preparing to move. It has a small rubber tab at the front edge which wipes ink from a gold contact surface right in front of the wiper. I've yet to see one truly do well at keeping the surface free of ink, but it does keep it from building up. It is quite easy for this wiper to become "glued in place" by all of this ink. Start by raising the maintenance door, causing the carriage to move out to the center and the wiper to retract(if they will). You can then use a dampened paper towel or cotton swabs to clean the contact in front of the wiper, then gently pull forward on the top of the wiper to slide it forward over the cleaned surface. This will remove some of the ink on the rubber tab and begin letting you clean the wiper itself.
The second area of trouble is the service station itself. The sleds and tray are likely to be heavily coated and the only real way to clear them is to disassemble the case for access. You can use the following link to go to a step-by-step photo/instruction guide that will show you exactly what's involved- http://www.fatrcat.com/7100ss.html